"Brake" Problems
#31
RE: "Brake" Problems
ORIGINAL: diehlryan
ehh.. try and go without braking. should keep you running till you can replace the pads.
if you really need to stop you can always go to the nearest marina and pick up one of these:
ehh.. try and go without braking. should keep you running till you can replace the pads.
if you really need to stop you can always go to the nearest marina and pick up one of these:
#35
RE: "Brake" Problems
ORIGINAL: 225tt
Steve you mainly use your TT for the track right, so this is why you would want a higher boiling point for your TT just to be on the safe side during races, no sense having to worry about your brakes in a race, just drive right??
Steve you mainly use your TT for the track right, so this is why you would want a higher boiling point for your TT just to be on the safe side during races, no sense having to worry about your brakes in a race, just drive right??
I used to run HPS pads at the track, but I have found that as I've made improvements to the handling of the car my speeds have steadily climbed and the HPS's would tend to fade after a couple of laps. Now with the HT-10s I can brake as late and as hard as I want without any fear of braking failure.
FWIW, I've put a pyrometer on my rotors after a hot track session and measured over 450°F and that is after a cooldown lap. So you can imagine how hot things are when you are putting the demand on them.
#36
RE: "Brake" Problems
ORIGINAL: moeron7
Cool, the relay will be fixed tomorrow. I'll take a wheel off and see if i can find a sensor. I've been told about some decent pads to get (hawk, pbr, etc.) But i havent heard of a good rotor that I should get thats either oem or a little better. Got any ideas?
Cool, the relay will be fixed tomorrow. I'll take a wheel off and see if i can find a sensor. I've been told about some decent pads to get (hawk, pbr, etc.) But i havent heard of a good rotor that I should get thats either oem or a little better. Got any ideas?
#37
RE: "Brake" Problems
400 is what I was told by the Audi dealer to replace my brake pads. Seems very high to me, so I will order the pads myself and have a local BMW certified shop do the labor, hoping to save a 100 or so in the wallet. The dealer wanted about $100 more for the parts then we can get them online for so I will order and wait a few days, plus their dealer labor rates are so high compared to a good local shop.
#38
RE: "Brake" Problems
Wow 400 ya thats alittle much for a brake job, im glad im a DIY kinda guy. I am thinking of going with the two piece rotors from ecstuning.com and some good hawk pads, I think that should be good for my daily driver with occasional track time.
#39
RE: "Brake" Problems
Tirerack has a good selection of rotors at good prices, however wanted to go back to something you said earlier.
You stated, Couldn't find DOT 4 etc...
DO NOT PUT DOT 3 in your car. Your car came stock with a DOT 4, you can't go back, it causes problems, trust me, I'm going through the entire brake system on my Audi 100 because I put DOT 3 in the sytem because I assumed it was so old it didn't come with DOT 4. I was wrong, it gets really pricey, I hope you didn't add DOT 3, if you did, I would advise you to syphon it out of the top of your master cylinder and start over with a nice DOT 4 or up bleeding.
I didn't think it was a big deal but it's got it's side effects.
You stated, Couldn't find DOT 4 etc...
DO NOT PUT DOT 3 in your car. Your car came stock with a DOT 4, you can't go back, it causes problems, trust me, I'm going through the entire brake system on my Audi 100 because I put DOT 3 in the sytem because I assumed it was so old it didn't come with DOT 4. I was wrong, it gets really pricey, I hope you didn't add DOT 3, if you did, I would advise you to syphon it out of the top of your master cylinder and start over with a nice DOT 4 or up bleeding.
I didn't think it was a big deal but it's got it's side effects.
#40
RE: "Brake" Problems
I found some DOT 3/4 at advanced auto store, but i want DOT4 or 5. The only thing i'm worried about is that my car wont stop in time. that and I have to wait for my new CC to get in the mail before I do anything. I'm just strapped right now. So once I get that, I'll order online or try and get them ordered quicker from a store around here, I want slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Is bleeding the brakes hard to do? Do I need that pump looking device or can I do something else?