My Brake Pad indicator turned on the other day, so I went back to review the service history on my 2010 Q7. I am the second owner. From the records the pads were replaced at 14000 and again at 34000. No mention of rotors being replaced. I guess when you have the warranty still in place the service departments will push the limits on the rotors.
After doing an internet search to see what was involved in changing out the brakes I came upon this thread. Thanks a bundle as this will likely save me a bundle over time.
I ordered the rotors and pads and special tools that I didn't have yet and began the brake job, but after removing the front passenger tire, I noticed that there was still a lot of pad left (nearly 50%). So I checked the other wheels and noticed the same. The back rotors have a more noticable lip than the front, but the pads still seem to be fine. I remounted the front passenger tire and decided it could wait.
Any idea why the indicator light came on so soon?

 

Only way to know for sure is to determine which brake pad wear sensor tripped the computer. Any of the four sensors could have done that. You can confirm it by unplugging them and checking for continuity between the two connections going to the sensor on the pad.

The rears wear much less than the fronts, so it's very possible/likely that the rear pad replacement is out of sync with the fronts and were the ones that tripped the brake wear signal.

Also, if the rotors were not changed when the pads were changed (either front or rear), the rotors would have started with an outer lip on the new set of pads, which causes the pad sensor to wear through prematurely on the second set of pads used with that rotor. If that's the case here, you may easily have several months of pad life remaining and you'll have to deal with that brake warning until then.

 

It looks like a fun morning project come Saturday

 

Even though the pads had life on them I already had purchased the rotors and the pads a year ago and they were beginning to make a little noise.

I followed your procedures with the exception of removing the set screw to free up the brake hydraulic line. I couldn't find my 6mm allen wrench, so I carefully removed the caliper and supported it with an extra jack stand while I replaced the rotor.

My main issue was with the sensors. The plastic likes to break as you try to put them in their slot. I had to use some epoxy on one of them, because I didn't want to run to the parts store and buy a new one.

Unfortunately the pictures are no longer available to view, but I struggled through it and the car drives and brakes great. A nice feeling of satisfaction that I was able to save so much on such a reasonably simple task. I also used better quality rotors and pads.

Thanks again for the writeup.

 

Congrats!

 

Hey all,

I found there were a lot of videos and blogs post that had info on torque specs (140 ft-ib), Socket sizes (M16 and T50), and general how to on this brake replacement process. I attempted to squeeze it all into 1 A-Z, step by step video. I hope it helps you out.

REAR Disc Brake Replacement 2007-2015 Audi q7

Chris