Disassembing, cleaning & repacking Outer CV Joints >>>
#1
Disassembing, cleaning & repacking Outer CV Joints >>>
If you're adventurous and/or handy enough to switch out drive axles, then you're more than qualified for a simple $25 DIY fix...rather than switching a perfect high quality OEM axle assembly for an arguably inferior aftermarket replacement....not to mention $$ you DON'T need to spend. The prices on those are good for a reason....no one's doing you a favor...nothing is free...nothing that cheap is of acceptable quality for such a critical component.... >> IMHO <<.
Again, the format here does not allow me to post the entire pictorial guide. So here's a link to the tutorial :
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...7#post24122387
Cheers...and Enjoy.
Again, the format here does not allow me to post the entire pictorial guide. So here's a link to the tutorial :
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...7#post24122387
Cheers...and Enjoy.
#2
Man you went above and beyond with that joint, in the flat rate world the best that joint would get is the hotsy washer, a slab of grease, a quick swirl and thrown back on LOL.
I have to back you on the factory CV axles though, NO aftermarket axle (besides high performance axles) are superior to factory. The germans made those things uber powerful, some guys are running 600+ horsepower on these axles with 0 issues. I've even seen some cars come in with blown CV boots that have been like that for several years and haven't failed, amazingly strong axles.
I have to back you on the factory CV axles though, NO aftermarket axle (besides high performance axles) are superior to factory. The germans made those things uber powerful, some guys are running 600+ horsepower on these axles with 0 issues. I've even seen some cars come in with blown CV boots that have been like that for several years and haven't failed, amazingly strong axles.
#4
Ripped boot, leading to loss of grease and therefore beginning contamination with outside grit, sand, etc.
If the joint itself is failing (rare)..clicking in corners, binding causing steering pulse...it's not likely to help.
Also if a boot has ripped at high mileage on one side, the other side is close to going too and should be changed before imminent blowout and makin a greasy mess.
If the boot has deep, dry cracks in the folds or near a clamp, it's just a matter of time...usually rips during a full steering lock turn...max stress it takes.
If the joint itself is failing (rare)..clicking in corners, binding causing steering pulse...it's not likely to help.
Also if a boot has ripped at high mileage on one side, the other side is close to going too and should be changed before imminent blowout and makin a greasy mess.
If the boot has deep, dry cracks in the folds or near a clamp, it's just a matter of time...usually rips during a full steering lock turn...max stress it takes.
Last edited by silverd2; 03-29-2011 at 10:25 AM.
#7
That's what I would have guessed...the joint itself is a beautiful, smooth, bullet proof design.
I would hope, though, that the boot design would continue to improve...better material and/or embedded with rip proof reinforcement.
#8
The CV axles are almost the same for all audis, different CV sizes, but the design is the same. The boots from audi have changed from a rubber material to a high density thermo plastic, don't know if it will last longer but its a pain the *** to install compared to the rubber ones. Im also not sure if the A8's are getting these boots or not, but other models are, i know my A4 did.
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