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Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Questions, work in progress..

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  #31  
Old 08-28-2009 | 12:43 AM
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You guys are quick tonight! I'm going to ponder this one 2nite. I'm currently not working on Fridays, so tomorrow is going to be a garage day. Here's a pic of the surface I'm talking about:
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You can see the end of the cam, the two locating pins for the cap, and the machined surface around the locating pins, one side is inside the engine, the other out. The valve cover goes up and over the cap, but what seals this surface between the cap and the head. I DON'T want this to leak again soon, as I can't afford the beer required to spend another week in the garage

G
 
  #32  
Old 08-28-2009 | 01:31 AM
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This is what I used on my gaskets, at those corners similar to the arrows Jack pointed out at. Those where the only points where I dabbed a thin film. For the rest of the surface I spread a thin layer of oil.
I bought it from Arizona Autohaus at the same time when I ordered the parts for TB replacement. I also used it for the WP, and for the coolant O-ring seals I replaced (back of the cyl heads + back of the T-stat and WP housings)

If you are too concerned with not trusting the "ermetic" fitting of the gasket, then you can use sealant in between the cover's matting channel itself and the gasket. Don't go bezerk and use a lot, though.
As Jack said, probably the reason they start leaking is due to becoming brittle with age.
 
  #33  
Old 08-28-2009 | 05:39 AM
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I do not think you should have to replace gaskets of a well designed car every 50,000 miles. I had all the seals and timing belts done (professionally) at 120K due to oil leaks fron the front, sides and rear of the motor. (The same work was done when I bought the car, 40K and 3 years before.) The valve covers did not even make it 5K.

Now that there is enough information to do the work myself, I am doing it. (and other things.) The valve cover kit came with sensor safe RTV (high temp - black) and instructions to put a small amount around the cam plugs and the five spots on the valve cover gaskets. I am also "painting" a thin coat of rtv around both sides of the mating surfaces for the valve cover.

I like this car but I hate the oil leaks this car has had.
 
  #34  
Old 08-28-2009 | 03:57 PM
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Found it!
Manual says:
Lightly coat last bearing cap (after the chain) with sealant D 454 300 A2 before installing. I'm going to the local VW dealer, see if they have the right stuff. If no, it's a skim of rtv black she'll be getting. I'm kinda hung up anyway until my cam adjuster tool 3366 comes, so I've started work on the drivers side. Thanks for the help everyone, this forum rocks.
Gary
 
  #35  
Old 08-31-2009 | 04:34 PM
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Well, looks like it's going together with RTV black. Called the dealer, they want $122 for the tube of special D 454 300 A2 sealant. I insisted I only needed a tube, not a case, we had a chuckle, and I said no thank you. Wow.
 
  #36  
Old 08-31-2009 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by gwos25
Well, looks like it's going together with RTV black.
Always a good choice.

This is even better; http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ute_Gasket.htm
 
  #37  
Old 08-31-2009 | 10:18 PM
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That right stuff looks alright have you used it?
 
  #38  
Old 08-31-2009 | 10:35 PM
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Best stuff I've used so far..
 
  #39  
Old 09-01-2009 | 10:26 PM
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Default more pics, spider hose, plugged crankcase vent,

Ok,
This waiting for tools is a blessing, and a curse. The more time I have to poke around, the more **** I find. This may be of interest to those who have been replacing seals multiple times and not servicing the PCV system. I removed the old spider hose assembly, and, found this:

Pretty plugged, so off to the dealer, and picked up the "new and improved" spider hose assembly. It was actually cheaper than ECS considering exchange and shipping I would have had to pay. So, I get to thinking, where does that lower nearly plugged hose connect? Get the mirror in there, and found this:

Wow. Now, that is what is referred to as the crankcase vent valve, correct?

How complicated is that part? Can it simply (lol, like anything is simple on this car) be removed and cleaned, or should it be replaced? I can get it for $91, but if it's just a cover/vent with no parts that would fail anyway, then I'll just clean it. Anything else I might run into getting to this part? Suction jet pump? Should it be replaced too? I was going to, but then couldn't find it, but looking at the manual, it looks like its under the manifold, which is going to have to come off to get at the crankcase vent. So... While you're in there... I'm glad the weather's been nice, at least my motorcycle's been getting some use!
Thanks,
 
  #40  
Old 09-02-2009 | 07:29 AM
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first of all try to clean the dirt and also clean the rusted psrt.
 


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