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Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Questions, work in progress..

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  #21  
Old 08-24-2009 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Midniteoyl
Well thanks! I was just trying to figure out how to do that
Darn....sorry Jim, I didn't even see your post (3 mins in between...I bet I was typing when you posted).
You're very welcome, no matter if you were joking or I really gave you an idea. LOL
 
  #22  
Old 08-25-2009 | 01:13 AM
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No, wasnt joking...
 
  #23  
Old 08-27-2009 | 12:10 PM
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ok, I'm going at this again tonight, fri, and the weekend. Hope to get it sealed back up. Problem is, I can't find a 3366 tool anywhere in Canada, e-bay one's won't ship, dealer don't have them, won't order them, indy shops, same story... So, anyone willing to ship me theirs? I'll buy it, rent it, whatever, I just want to get my car back together :-)
 
  #24  
Old 08-27-2009 | 12:54 PM
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ZDMAK has it for $ 23.95

CANADIAN ORDERS MUST BE CALLED IN.
SHIPPING TO THE MAINLAND U.S. ONLY
IF YOU SUBMIT AN ADDRESS THAT IS NOT IN THE MAINLAND U.S.
YOUR ORDER WILL NOT BE PROCESSED.
INTERNATONAL BUYERS, ALASKA AND HAWAII EMAIL FOR QUOTE.
877-938-6657
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ToolSource.com also has it for $ 28.95
They don't specify anything about internat shipping, but is worth calling them:
1-888-220-8350.
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You can e-mail SamstagSales.com and get a quote, also:

VW-REF<Manager@SamstagSales.com>

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CostPlusTools.com : $ 26.75

International orders and orders being shipped to an APO are also welcome, however please call or email us for actual shipping charges.

Any items that are advertised as free shipping will ship with either UPS ground or truck freight.

We ship Monday through Friday except on Holidays. Any in-stock items ordered on Friday after 12PM Eastern time will ship on the following Monday. For information on shipping charges to Alaska, Hawaii,Canada, U.S. territories and APO-FPO addresses, please contact us.
888-862-7660
 

Last edited by chefro; 08-27-2009 at 01:11 PM.
  #25  
Old 08-27-2009 | 01:41 PM
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I just wanted to back everything said about NOT using sealant on the cam plugs (black caps) as chefro said, the design is the same all the way up to the 04 model, so removing the bearing caps either stabbing it with a pic (what i do) or prying it out are acceptable methods. The cams do not have to be removed.
 
  #26  
Old 08-27-2009 | 11:30 PM
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Thanks for the tool links, have one coming. Now, it seems the further I get into this, the more questions I have, lol. I've removed the bearing cap, got the cap/seal out. Everything cleaned up. Now, I cannot find the reassembly instructions in the manual. For the front double bearing caps, it notes to use D 454 300 A2 to seal the clamped surfaces. Not sure what type of sealant this is, and I can't find a reference as to weather something similar should be done to the rear bearing cap that retains that seal cap. Is this supposed to be sealed? There is oil on the inside, and atm on the outside, so something tells me the surface should be sealed, but I don't want to use anything that could alter the bearing clearance. What to do here?
Thanks, again, maybe I'll just save the thanks til I'm done, cause I don't think this is the end yet, heh.
Gary
 
  #27  
Old 08-27-2009 | 11:47 PM
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From what I've found, D 454 300 A2 is some kind of sealant that never truly dries thats used on the valve cover gaskets, but sensor safe RTV is what people use.

Dont know for sure about the 2.7, but the 2.8 requires front and back:



Sealing contact surfaces between bearing cap and cylinder head
Carefully apply a small amount of sealant D 454 300 A2 (RTV works, prolly better) at four end points of sealing surfaces on cylinder head (arrows) using small screwdriver.

Torque on all the bolts is 10n-m, or 7.3 lb-ft.
Personally, I have ALWAYS used a small 1/16-1/8 inch bead of RTV all the way around then placed the gasket.
 

Last edited by Midniteoyl; 08-27-2009 at 11:52 PM.
  #28  
Old 08-27-2009 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Midniteoyl
From what I've found, D 454 300 A2 is some kind of sealant that never truly dries...snip

And never truly seals?? I need to do a beer run....

Dont know for sure about the 2.7, but the 2.8 requires front and back:

Yep, that's for the covers, but It's also used under the camshaft BEARING caps on the front, but can't find a reference for the one back one that holds in the leaky cap, plug, seal, thing.
G
 
  #29  
Old 08-27-2009 | 11:59 PM
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Gotcha...

I have no clue.. pm auditech, he'd most likely know.
 
  #30  
Old 08-28-2009 | 12:04 AM
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I would just dab the four corners like the arrows say. not the cap or the rest of the cover gasket. My cover gaskets have nothing on them and they don't leak and they have been on and off a few times too. The reason they leak is they just dry up and crack, and the seals/caps dry out and warp. You just need to replace them every 50K.

Like Chefro said; a film of oil, like the way you seal a oil filter.

I wish Chevy used gaskets like that. WTF? They stole all Audi designs for the new suburban why can't we have rubber valve cover gaskets????
 

Last edited by Jackmup; 08-28-2009 at 12:10 AM.


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