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Technical Cam/Timing Question

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  #1  
Old 04-20-2011 | 11:21 AM
IIl1Ill's Avatar
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Default Technical Cam/Timing Question

02 Audi A6 2.7t

Background:

Camshaft tensioner on bank 1 was replaced a couple weeks ago by a shop by the previous owner.

Throwing codes 0300 and 0341 when I got the car.

Not the sensor or anything related electronically.

Pulled the timing chain off and looked at the camshaft "butterflys" and they didn't line up, so I moved the bank 1 (side throwing code) belt one tooth in the correct direction. They seemed to line up.

Put car back together and started it up.

Then it threw codes P0300 and P0340. Both 0341 and 0340 are bank 1 cam position sensor.

Bought camshaft lock bar. Redid the timing belt again. Now, it seems the bank 1 camshaft is off by half a tooth at all times. I put the belt on with the locking bar in place. Then spun the crank twice and when it came around, the camshaft was off again with too shallow of an angle. I moved the belt another tooth, off again but this time too steep of an angle. Hence, it seems like it's off by half a tooth.

Could this be a tensioner related issue at this point? I'm assuming it's off a link. But I'd rather not take the valve covers off if it's not necessary, but it feels like I'm running out of options. I just want to get a second opinion on this.

Thanks for any help.

Jeff
 

Last edited by IIl1Ill; 04-20-2011 at 11:24 AM.
  #2  
Old 04-20-2011 | 11:59 AM
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To do the belt the correct way, you need to loosen the cam sprockets while the lock bar is in place. Loosen each bolt in front of both cams several turns. You can pull the sprockets loose without pulling off the cam. You should be able to spin them freely. Once loosened, put the belt back on and pretension the tensioner to 15Nm.

This allows even tension to be put on all sides of the belt. Otherwise, uneven tension on on side of the belt will equalize once the motor spins and will throw it off timing.

Hope this helps.
 
  #3  
Old 04-20-2011 | 12:01 PM
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Forgot to mention that you will need a gear puller to pull the sprockets off.
 
  #4  
Old 04-20-2011 | 12:30 PM
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If you never pulled the sprockets and haven't read about it, then I have a little something to add to gaser's good advice: expect a big BANG as the sprocket gets loose.
It's normal.
(still startles me although I know it's coming and I expect it )
 
  #5  
Old 04-20-2011 | 03:54 PM
IIl1Ill's Avatar
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Ok, so my gear puller doesn't seem to work for these sprockets. Any of you guys have a picture of the puller I'll need?


Edit: Nevermind. I figured it out. Thanks again for the help guys.
 

Last edited by IIl1Ill; 04-20-2011 at 04:00 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot.
  #6  
Old 04-21-2011 | 02:26 AM
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you can always screw a nut over that "cone"-shaped end and add a washer (or more) so you'd have a flat pushing/contact surface instead of the pointed bs.
 
  #7  
Old 04-25-2011 | 11:07 PM
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So I found the problem. The intake cam was installed incorrectly by the last mechanic the previous owner took it to. Pic below. Does anybody know if I have to remove the cam to adjust this? Or is it possible to just take the slack off the chain with the tensioner tool and move the intake cam by itself?

And yes, the engine was at tdc when this picture was taken and the exhaust cam lines up perfectly.

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  #8  
Old 04-26-2011 | 01:17 AM
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If the cams were removed since the factory, it does not mean that they are off timing just because the marks don't line up. The idea is to have 16 rollers between the cam marks as shown.



To answer your question about the removing cam, read the following DIY.

Cam chain tensioner DIY

I would make sure to count the rollers before the hard work. (Actually not that hard since you pretty much have everything off.)
 
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