Reverse not engaging
#1
Reverse not engaging
I have a 2000 Audi A6 2.7T. Few days ago I started to feel that the reverse is not engaging properly. When I go to work in the morning, it works fine. But for the rest of the day, I need to push some gas to go reverse. It is running fine in the forward. Its an Automatic transmission. What could be the possible reasons behind this?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
You really need to pull the fault codes from the TCM with a vag com. More often than not when there is a transmission problem it will have a fault code.
It could be a meriad of problems:
TCM
TR
Shifter adjustment
Sticking valve body/valve
Slipping clutches
and so on.
It could be a meriad of problems:
TCM
TR
Shifter adjustment
Sticking valve body/valve
Slipping clutches
and so on.
#4
You need to have it diagnosed before you can repair it. Go to an Indy shop or Audi and have them pull your fault codes that may give you an idea of what the problem is.
If it's an adjustment could be $150
on the other end of things if the band is gone could be $5000.
If you need to know something right now go outside and look under the car. If your transmission pan is wet and has drips of fluid on the bottom, the band is probably blown. If it doesn't and it's clean and dry then there is a good chance it's something else.
Either way these transmissions are so expensive to rebuild that you should get on it ASAP. You wouldn't want to let a minor adjustment or repair turn into a rebuild.
If it's an adjustment could be $150
on the other end of things if the band is gone could be $5000.
If you need to know something right now go outside and look under the car. If your transmission pan is wet and has drips of fluid on the bottom, the band is probably blown. If it doesn't and it's clean and dry then there is a good chance it's something else.
Either way these transmissions are so expensive to rebuild that you should get on it ASAP. You wouldn't want to let a minor adjustment or repair turn into a rebuild.
#5
Do you have any codes?
Back gound: Most Audi's, over the last 15 years or so, have computers to control the different parts. (Most newer cars are also like this.) There are "code readers" that "talk" to the car's computers and read any code for the problem they report. Most autoparts stores have "generic" readers that most of them will use to pull the codes "for free." These may not read everything you need. You'll most likely need one for "VAG" (VW auto group).
You can get adapters to hook up your computer to read these codes. (VAG-COM is one of the better ones. Google it.) If you plan on keeping your Audi, it would be good to get one so you can read the codes. Even if you do not work on the car yourself it will save you money.
Your tranny problem could be as little as low fluid or as much as needing a new tranny.
So, do you know what (if any) codes are "thown."
#7
Here are the code defenitions.
P1606 - Rough Road Spec Engine Torque ABS-ECU Electrical Malfunction
P1421 - Sec.Air Inj.Valve Circ Short to Ground
P1423 - Sec.Air Inj.Sys.,Bank1 Flow too Low
P1411 - Sec.Air Inj.Sys.,Bank2 Flow too Flow
P1606 - Rough Road Spec Engine Torque ABS-ECU Electrical Malfunction
P1421 - Sec.Air Inj.Valve Circ Short to Ground
P1423 - Sec.Air Inj.Sys.,Bank1 Flow too Low
P1411 - Sec.Air Inj.Sys.,Bank2 Flow too Flow
#9
You need to have it diagnosed before you can repair it. Go to an Indy shop or Audi and have them pull your fault codes that may give you an idea of what the problem is.
If it's an adjustment could be $150
on the other end of things if the band is gone could be $5000.
If you need to know something right now go outside and look under the car. If your transmission pan is wet and has drips of fluid on the bottom, the band is probably blown. If it doesn't and it's clean and dry then there is a good chance it's something else.
Either way these transmissions are so expensive to rebuild that you should get on it ASAP. You wouldn't want to let a minor adjustment or repair turn into a rebuild.
If it's an adjustment could be $150
on the other end of things if the band is gone could be $5000.
If you need to know something right now go outside and look under the car. If your transmission pan is wet and has drips of fluid on the bottom, the band is probably blown. If it doesn't and it's clean and dry then there is a good chance it's something else.
Either way these transmissions are so expensive to rebuild that you should get on it ASAP. You wouldn't want to let a minor adjustment or repair turn into a rebuild.