Replaced Valve Cover Gaskets, Input needed
#1
Replaced Valve Cover Gaskets, Input needed
So I have an '03 2.7T (127,000 miles) and I just did the valve cover gaskets (both inner and outer), cam chain tensioner gaskets, and the valley plug between the cam journal and the tensioner.
The issue I'm having is that I'm experiencing significant leaks from the front driver's side valve cover.
When I first did the install, I followed the instructions I got from Blauparts and used their black RTV that they supplied even though I know Audi doesn't really feel as though RTV is necessary. I let is cure for over a day and then started her up to find I'm getting leaks from the front (I can see it leaking down from the corner directly above the oil cooler ever so slowly). I opened it up again and went with Audi's way: No RTV. Same result. I opened it up again and used some brand new red RTV I had bough a week prior. Let it cure for 36 hours and the same result: A leak once the car reaches operating temperature.
Anyone have any best bets for this? I'm kinda at a loss here. I've inspected the outer gasket and didn't see any noticeable issues. The only thing I did notice was that the gasket didn't want to seat properly in the corner directly above the oil cooler without the aide of RTV. Could I have a defective outer gasket that is slightly warped but I can't notice it by eyeballing it?
I'm really kinda stumped here which is funny because it's such a common issue with our cars!
The issue I'm having is that I'm experiencing significant leaks from the front driver's side valve cover.
When I first did the install, I followed the instructions I got from Blauparts and used their black RTV that they supplied even though I know Audi doesn't really feel as though RTV is necessary. I let is cure for over a day and then started her up to find I'm getting leaks from the front (I can see it leaking down from the corner directly above the oil cooler ever so slowly). I opened it up again and went with Audi's way: No RTV. Same result. I opened it up again and used some brand new red RTV I had bough a week prior. Let it cure for 36 hours and the same result: A leak once the car reaches operating temperature.
Anyone have any best bets for this? I'm kinda at a loss here. I've inspected the outer gasket and didn't see any noticeable issues. The only thing I did notice was that the gasket didn't want to seat properly in the corner directly above the oil cooler without the aide of RTV. Could I have a defective outer gasket that is slightly warped but I can't notice it by eyeballing it?
I'm really kinda stumped here which is funny because it's such a common issue with our cars!
#3
Thanks, I'll see if I can dig up that information.
I'm starting to think I have a bad outer gasket as it looks like it's stretched and will not seat properly, so I'm guessing it's leaving gaps when I go to torque down the nuts to 7ft lbs.
I'll try to go with OEM and see what happens. At least I'm getting good with take off the valve covers! 4 minutes flat!
I'm starting to think I have a bad outer gasket as it looks like it's stretched and will not seat properly, so I'm guessing it's leaving gaps when I go to torque down the nuts to 7ft lbs.
I'll try to go with OEM and see what happens. At least I'm getting good with take off the valve covers! 4 minutes flat!
#4
Here's an update:
I was able to swap out the valve cover gasket for an OEM one and the quality certainly was different. I first applied the OEM gasket without RTV thinking from anytime I've talked to my service manager at the dealer he swares AGAINST using RTV anywhere on the car. That still produced leaks.
I pulled it off again, cleaned up the mating surfaces (again) and re-applied RTV. I paid special attention to the tongue and groove section where it meets the flat surface of the cylinder head. I made sure I put RTV in that little track and then replaced the valve cover and tightened everything down. I let the RTV set for 24 hours and let it run for about 45 minutes this evening and I could not see any leaks.
I'm convinced that for this task RTV is a must if you want a leak-free application. For us DIY-ers, I can't see being able to go without it and NOT getting leaks.
I was able to swap out the valve cover gasket for an OEM one and the quality certainly was different. I first applied the OEM gasket without RTV thinking from anytime I've talked to my service manager at the dealer he swares AGAINST using RTV anywhere on the car. That still produced leaks.
I pulled it off again, cleaned up the mating surfaces (again) and re-applied RTV. I paid special attention to the tongue and groove section where it meets the flat surface of the cylinder head. I made sure I put RTV in that little track and then replaced the valve cover and tightened everything down. I let the RTV set for 24 hours and let it run for about 45 minutes this evening and I could not see any leaks.
I'm convinced that for this task RTV is a must if you want a leak-free application. For us DIY-ers, I can't see being able to go without it and NOT getting leaks.
#7
If you're only doing the outer and inner valve cover gaskets then no, you can do this from the top without putting the car into the service position.
If you're going to do the cam cap and ring on the passenger side then you will have to put it into service position to get to it. I can't see it being possible without taking the timing belt off on the passenger side.
Will you be doing this service on a 2.7t? You will most likely need to remove your passenger side kombi valve if so. Big pain in the *** if you ask me.
Oh, and where in NE PA are you? I'm not too far from you it seems.
If you're going to do the cam cap and ring on the passenger side then you will have to put it into service position to get to it. I can't see it being possible without taking the timing belt off on the passenger side.
Will you be doing this service on a 2.7t? You will most likely need to remove your passenger side kombi valve if so. Big pain in the *** if you ask me.
Oh, and where in NE PA are you? I'm not too far from you it seems.
#8
Yep on my S4 2.7T. Can't imagine paying to have this motor pulled again. I'm having a mass amount if issues all at once. This problem with oil leaking onto pass side turbo. My a/c doesn't work, windows fog up and heard a leak when attempting to recharge the system. Getting downpipes for these ko4's. rear wheel bearing and then there is my grand am. But that'll be easy in comparison. I'm in the Poconos. Looking to do this work myself. Any help would be great. Thanks.
#9
I believe you'll have to remove the passenger side kombi valve in order to lift the valve cover high enough off of the studs.
You will have to file down / cut a 5mm allen wrench in order to do this cause it's so tight.
While you have it open, I would also change the cam chain tensioner gasket and the half moon piece below it as well to prevent any leaks. If you have oil leaking onto your turbo, most likely it's coming from the back of the valve cover, which is why I say change the cam chain tensioner gasket and the half moon piece below it.
You will have to file down / cut a 5mm allen wrench in order to do this cause it's so tight.
While you have it open, I would also change the cam chain tensioner gasket and the half moon piece below it as well to prevent any leaks. If you have oil leaking onto your turbo, most likely it's coming from the back of the valve cover, which is why I say change the cam chain tensioner gasket and the half moon piece below it.
#10
That was my next question as far as what else I could and should do. How do you feel about the blaupunkt kit? I don't think it'll be so bad to do the job. I'm gathering the tools now. I'm blowing a ton of smoke out the tailpipe along with the burning smell off the turbo. Needs to get done ASAP. What do you think about the a/c issue I'm having. Heater core?