While it maybe good for other types of driving, I believe the A6 was designed as a Highway Cruiser, as in Autobahn. It does a mighty fine job of it too!

1/4 mile times are something totally different. Big Bucks for small gains that really do not mean much on the street. But it is your car and your money.

 

You have to pull the engine to replace the turbos so go for the gt28's at least.

 

gotcha. i saw a nice K&N rig around somewhere they're selling. im looking into it.

so far as the other posts im going to be using the 1/4 mile time as a legal and safe way to gauge the performance from stand still as well as acceleration and take off, in conjunction with dynos to accurately map the power bands. so its not so much a matter of what the car is made for, but more or less what i expect myself to be able to make it into, a mild performance vehicle with luxury and style. and so far auditech has been mostly the only one providing constructive assistance in this topic which is mainly acquiring the resources and information i need to achieve the goal.

 

im thinking those pipes are a bit loud, but also youtube videos have a tendency to leave out lower pitch and pick up alot of the higher so without being in person i cant decide noise wise. what boost controller were you using by the way, i've seen dozens but not so sure on the reliability and such. also looking into boost controller combo'd with gauge. saw a nice digital dial gauge i was diggin.

 

I ran the turboXS HPBC, i still run it on my A4. Its a basic ball and spring design but it won't leak or break like alot of other crappy ones on ebay. Plus the HPBC has a slight bleeder valve that raises the boost fast but without a large spike that you don't want. http://www.turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=1 Look at the second one down the page. You will need a chip before installing this though, or you will hit limp mode at 15psi of boost. If you want to go digital then Greddy has either the profec 1 or 2 at your disposal giving you even better control of the boost curve. VDO makes gread boost gauges, they also make vent mounted ones for the A4 and TT but im not sure about the A6, you may have to mount it under the dash. This is just an example to see what the gauge looks like, its not for the A6. http://www.goapr.com/products/boost_gauge.html

As for the exhaust, the 2.7T doesn't create a lot of interior resonance, even with straight pipes, however if you gut the cats it will make it really loud. You could got he complete custom route, just buy those downpipes then take it from there using two mufflers that are quieter. Listen to magnaflow sound clips on youtube and others to find the right sound you want.

 

I'll help you as well. You might consider going a more custom route. If you want 10s, you will need some serious power. More than K04s will get you.
You need to step up to some Garret turbos, and to hold that forged rods, in addition to what auditech mentioned.

There is a guy on AZ with a stg 3 6-speed car, its running low 11s right now. Full weight as well.
Also a guy with GT2560s on a tiptronic car, but hes had a hell of a time keeping the trans together(built by 517 trans IIRC)


And you do not want straight pipes on the 2.7. My buddy is running that setup, sounds like ***.

 

If you're going extreme, everyone constructive is going to tell you the same thing: Garretts, custom induction and exhaust, stengthened engine internals and structure, lots of fuel, a stronger drivetrain, a suspension setup to handle the power, big brakes to be safe, a good powertrain management system, and pay attention to the crazy heat you are going to be producing.
I think, like 2001A6, the limit to the power you are going to be able to reliably put to the ground is going to be determined by your drivetrain. Specifically, the auto transmission. If you are going to keep it, you might want to start by calling both 517 trans and IPT trans to see what the limits of their units are. That's probably going to tell you how crazy you can go. If you can't go crazy enough with an auto, sell your car and find a 6-speed.
If your are going to do it all at once, and you have never tuned a car like this before (like me), you might consider getting a general idea of what you want and working with a shop that specializes in custom setups for these cars. My feeling with these cars is that it's all about getting a good package where all of the components work well together and are well tuned by an experienced shop. It's all about the computers working. The easiest way, I feel, to get a parts list for said package would be to go to a shop that has put out product like what you want in the past. I don't think that it means bringing your car to that shop, but they can at least get you the right stuff. Either way, it's going to cost you over $20,000, I'm pretty sure. That's if you do most of the actual build yourself. I live in Michigan, so VAST is going to be my shop when I build my A6 up. I don't want to do something wrong or spend when I don't need to. Do it right the first time as parts for this car ain't cheap.

Remember, it's only a 2.7 liter engine. I'm not going worry too much about sub 11 sec quarters. If I drive in with a daily driver, full weight A6 with good driveability on pump gas, pull something around a 12, and then hit the town with it, I'm still going to have a sh*t eaten grin on my face.

 

well talk about an old thread now, and something else i realize, this really is the most popular and frequently utilized audi forum lol. but im looking at chips right now, to do within the month. APR of course, everyone loves, but i havent been able to find much word on the swedes input, something that caught my eye, http://en.bsr.se/products/ppc/ , the saab guys love them, and they put an audi end on the market a year or two ago, and dont see anything on them. but really im fishing for ideas of a good worthwhile and reasonably priced chip for now, for this month. just love the portability and ease of use of the bsr rig as opposed to ripping my ecu out or driving 2 hours to get the dealer to do it, although that has its obvious advantages, such as the test period and such. so, APR is a definate possibility since its within 2 hours drive, but price wise its not the cheapest for a stage 1 chip, and idk if its the best. im trying to stay around the 500-700 range for the chip right now, or lower always works. just means more money for other mods right now.

and as a side note, im slowly working my plans to integrate chip, exhaust, external mods, including some rs6 cloning, and then k04 swap, then i've been eying some rims also. so the performance is still a forethought, but im working my way into it as i work on the appearance styling and mild performance then into reliability and service, as i've put 4000 miles on it in 2 months, then higher end performance. but as much as ive driven priorities have to adapt to the environment. but i still have my goals, which im gonna get to. still writing parts lists.