New 95 A6 owner
#21
06-14-2011, 11:53 PM
I drove 6 miles at 45/50 and then the coolant light came on. The left side of the radiator was quite hot, while the right side was cold.
After cooling for a little bit and then getting to my destination, - after a good 1.5 hour cool-down, I drove home, nearly 7 miles of the 8 before the warning came on again.
Either the thermostat is sticking or the water-pump isn't pumping very well.
Over 300 miles since we got it, driving with heat and AC and then cooling issues - I don't think there was a air bubble hiding.
I topped up the tank and ran it for a bit and let it cool, and added a little more again today before the GF drove the 1 mile to work.
I'm ordering the TB parts on Friday - payday
After cooling for a little bit and then getting to my destination, - after a good 1.5 hour cool-down, I drove home, nearly 7 miles of the 8 before the warning came on again.
Either the thermostat is sticking or the water-pump isn't pumping very well.
Over 300 miles since we got it, driving with heat and AC and then cooling issues - I don't think there was a air bubble hiding.
I topped up the tank and ran it for a bit and let it cool, and added a little more again today before the GF drove the 1 mile to work.
I'm ordering the TB parts on Friday - payday
#22
06-15-2011, 11:29 AM
Be smart and either rent or buy the locking tools.
You definitely need the crank pin if you change the crank seal (but you'll also need to buy a new bolt - they're torque-to-yield), and I personally wouldn't guess my way around the camshafts without the locking bar.
You definitely need the crank pin if you change the crank seal (but you'll also need to buy a new bolt - they're torque-to-yield), and I personally wouldn't guess my way around the camshafts without the locking bar.
#23
06-15-2011, 01:16 PM
I ordered the looking tool last night off ebay - the bar and pin. $85 shipped.
Im shopping on autohaus but havent figured out which crank seal is the right one - the dimensions are quite different.
Looks like if I can get the Zerex G 05 and the tranny fluid (? dex III?) localy I should save some $ compared to even ordering from blauparts, but it is a slow process to pick out all the right bits vs. a nice kit with everything.
Im shopping on autohaus but havent figured out which crank seal is the right one - the dimensions are quite different.
Looks like if I can get the Zerex G 05 and the tranny fluid (? dex III?) localy I should save some $ compared to even ordering from blauparts, but it is a slow process to pick out all the right bits vs. a nice kit with everything.
#24
06-16-2011, 12:17 AM
If you have a Carquest franchise in town, they should carry the Zerex G05. Here is $ 12.95 IIRC for a gallon jug - full strength, not 50/50 diluted bs.
Crankshaft front seal - 034115147A is what you need - 35x48x10mm
(for cross-reference: Source1, and Source2 - most trusted)
The other two listed on ArizAutohaus page are for the rear: flange gasket and rear main seal.
-
Tranny fluid:
I use just as many other guys Mobil1 MultiVehicle Synthetic
-
You can also go with Kendall ATF Dexron if you can find it.
Valvoline ATF Type D (but that's European formula - I doubt we can find it here anywhere)
These three are in the "Lubricant Class 11A"
-------------------
Lubricant Class 11B:
-Pentosin ATF1 or TYP 2 D
-Esso ATF D 21065 (Exxon)
-Esso ATF LT 71141
-ZF LifeguardFLUID5
-----------------------
The lists are much, much longer but all these are either produced in the US, or are imported.
DexII/DexIII is basically what you need.
-----------------------------------------
In all the honesty, Mobil1 really worked in my old crappy box. I had a thud for both 2nd and 3rd gears when I purchased the car and as soon as I changed the fluid it alleviated the symptoms. Others could have sworn that they read about horror stories regarding changing the fluid in an old transmission that has never been touched. I didn't come across any story like that so I'm a Mobil1 "afficionado".
Crankshaft front seal - 034115147A is what you need - 35x48x10mm
(for cross-reference: Source1, and Source2 - most trusted)
The other two listed on ArizAutohaus page are for the rear: flange gasket and rear main seal.
-
Tranny fluid:
I use just as many other guys Mobil1 MultiVehicle Synthetic
-
You can also go with Kendall ATF Dexron if you can find it.
Valvoline ATF Type D (but that's European formula - I doubt we can find it here anywhere)
These three are in the "Lubricant Class 11A"
-------------------
Lubricant Class 11B:
-Pentosin ATF1 or TYP 2 D
-Esso ATF D 21065 (Exxon)
-Esso ATF LT 71141
-ZF LifeguardFLUID5
-----------------------
The lists are much, much longer but all these are either produced in the US, or are imported.
DexII/DexIII is basically what you need.
-----------------------------------------
In all the honesty, Mobil1 really worked in my old crappy box. I had a thud for both 2nd and 3rd gears when I purchased the car and as soon as I changed the fluid it alleviated the symptoms. Others could have sworn that they read about horror stories regarding changing the fluid in an old transmission that has never been touched. I didn't come across any story like that so I'm a Mobil1 "afficionado".
Last edited by chefro; 06-17-2011 at 10:26 AM.
#25
06-16-2011, 09:50 PM
We have PartsHut/BumperToBumper - supposed to have the Zerex. I didn't get a crank seal ordered.
Tools and parts should arrive Tuesday
Anyone have a list of torques for the TB job? The manual disc set is also ordered, don't know when it will arrive.
Tools and parts should arrive Tuesday
Anyone have a list of torques for the TB job? The manual disc set is also ordered, don't know when it will arrive.
#26
06-17-2011, 10:22 AM
Cam Sprockets Bolts - 52 ftlb
Timing belt tensioner - 33 ftlb
Timing belt idler - 18 ft lb
Ribbed belt tensioner - 41 ft lb
Power Steering pump pulley bolts (just in case) - 15 ftlb
Same goes for crank pulley bolts (if you need to take it off) - 15 ft lb
---------
I believe that's all there is in terms of torquing related to TB job.
The Thermostat housing bolts and water pump bolts are only 7 ftlb. All the bolts for the TB plastic covers are 7 ftlb.
Good luck.
Timing belt tensioner - 33 ftlb
Timing belt idler - 18 ft lb
Ribbed belt tensioner - 41 ft lb
Power Steering pump pulley bolts (just in case) - 15 ftlb
Same goes for crank pulley bolts (if you need to take it off) - 15 ft lb
---------
I believe that's all there is in terms of torquing related to TB job.
The Thermostat housing bolts and water pump bolts are only 7 ftlb. All the bolts for the TB plastic covers are 7 ftlb.
Good luck.
#27
07-17-2011, 12:43 AM
Including 2 hours trying (and not succeeding) to get the Bentley manual to run, the TB job didnt tale a whole 7 hours. The morning after, when it was all cool again I used a syringe to top off that pipe that runs around the rear of the left head.
No long trips, but long enough without issue.
The water pump looks new, the thermostat looked rough.
The cam-alignment tool worked fine, though I never did figure out where to put the crank shaft lock.
Had to use the blue coolant that comes in the 1.5 liter bottles. The listed vendor (Bumper to Bumper) doesn't carry the Xerex anymore. The only Carquest in the area only serves businesses, not civilians.
No long trips, but long enough without issue.
The water pump looks new, the thermostat looked rough.
The cam-alignment tool worked fine, though I never did figure out where to put the crank shaft lock.
Had to use the blue coolant that comes in the 1.5 liter bottles. The listed vendor (Bumper to Bumper) doesn't carry the Xerex anymore. The only Carquest in the area only serves businesses, not civilians.
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