On Jack Stands I Mean.

EDIT: If you want to get to the cause of my misfires, you can jump to thread #99.

As for proper cam chain roller count, see pic in thread #77. Notice that exhaust cam chain sprocket teeth are the same on both drivers side & passenger side, but the intake cam chain sprocket teeth are not the same. Search the web enough & you'll see comments about 16, or 15.5, or 15, or 14 rollers between sprocket teeth, but it all comes down to where you start the counting & where you end. This pic on #77 has it right!

OK, I'm bringing this thread over to the A6 forum thinking it may get more hits & I'll be adding onto it hopefully.
Below link was my 1st posting about the car my son & I are fixing. It lists the CEL codes we pulled.
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/gen...ighlight=CRuby

Still trying to hunt down a used (cheap) repair manual, but that's not stopping us yet, as there is lots of info on this site & others. Stripped down to timing belt to confirm it was installed correctly by prior owner. Looks right so far. Got crank & cams lined up & even pulled cam sprockets to get to cam seals. Currently in mode to clean up multiple oil leaks, before re-assy. Looks like we have leaking valve covers gaskets, cam tensioner, cam seal, possible front main seal, power steering hoses. Don't yet know for sure about oil pan & rear main seal, as to much is soaked in oil. I dread the rear main most & hope I can tell if I can avoid it. Will certainly check breather lines to confirm they're not clogged, as I've read they could help make the problem worse.

Trying my 2nd pic attempt here so I hope it comes in bigger than 1st try. Practice make perfect.


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Replace the front crank seal while at it. Also I can't stress enough that you should use the lock bar and the crank pin. Sounds like you are doing that though...

 

Well, not exactly, since I don't have the "official" cam lock bar. So I'm improvising. I understand that when crank aligned @ timing mark (w/ #1 @ TDC) the cam pulley flanges should be aligned horizontal w/ big hole toward center. An easy check we did was to run a string line from pulley flange to pulley flange & confirm flange hole centers are aligned. They were. Also, w/ valve covers off I can see an alignment mark for each cam that aligns to a notch in the cam. All four aligned dead center. Lastly, I rigged a bar with flanged ends to simulate the cam lock bar I've seen on-line & used this to keep cams from turning when I removed the cam bolts. Pulled the cam sprockets using a 3 jaw puller + PB blaster. Rechecked cam alignment again & they didn't move. I was surprised to see that the cam sprockets are not keyed to the cam shaft. They are simply pressed on w/o any key alignment feature. I guess audi relies on the tool to align each cam shaft rather than individually aligning the sprockets to separate timing marks.

Hxgaser: you mentioned using a crank pin. Can you explain this further? Are you referring to a puller for the crank sprocket, or a special locking pin to keep crank from turning when loosening it. Speaking of crank sprocket, I've seen a tech. warning about possible damage to the key during removal. Anyone know how common that problem is?
Audi Crankshaft Pulley - Audi Crankshaft Pulley Technical Tip
On my prior vehicles, I've lossened the crank bolt using the starter method, but I didn't do that here of course. What's the method used to get this crank sprocket off?

 

"w/ #1 @ TDC" = big time fail! Its #3 at TDC.

Crank pin keeps crank from turning.

Unless you see signs of the crankshaft seal leaking, leave well enough alone. I can't remember how I got the pulley off.

Otherwise, sounds like you have it right!

Good luck,

Bob

 

Ditto on #3 cylinder...

Crank lock pin location is right above the drain plug toward the back of the motor. You will see a screw/cap that you can undo to insert the lock pin. If you have the lock pin in, then you should be able to undo the crank sprocket too.

I politely disagree with Bob on the crank seal comment. I am the living proof that my crank seal failing after 15K miles of the timing belt job. Dealer seal cost is $15. You can get an aftermarket for about $5. I say just do it.

Just my 2 cents... I have seen numerous people that popped CEL after the belt job without the tools. I am not saying you will be one of them, but there is a good chance. Also if you want to properly PRETENSION the belt, you will need the locking pin in place while the cams are locked and the cam sprockets are loosened.

 

#3 at TDC? Must be a German thing. My bad. I just assumed (I know what that means!) it was #1 @ TDC. The timing mark on the crank is however aligned to the pointer on the timing cover. Thanks to you both for prompt replies. I was just out in garage scrapping off some of the oily crud. Below crank has sign of leakage (among other locations), so I plan on changing that seal w/o damaging the sprocket key (knock on wood). Also, going to do cam seals, valve cover gaskets, tensioner gaskets, etc. The PS pump for the 2.7 appears to be @ top front of engine & is also a main source of oil leaks. Expect I'll be changing the various hoses there. Also noticed a kink in the metal PS line, that looks like someone dented it. Probably pinches down to 1/2 flow area. Add that to the list too. Enough for now. Going hunting for crank lock pin location.

 

Here's the photo that I found originally that helped me located the plug without any searching:

(Courtesy of DaveInSaltLake)

That's the oil pan drain plug in the foreground, find that, look up and it's right in that area.


Make sure the o-ring comes out with the plug, or the pin won't go screw in.

 

Thanks. Bob's description & that pic got me there. I found it easier to get into there by removing the left turbo air line (probably not the right lingo). Now I definitely need the crank lock pin as you guys said. So what's a good (cheap) way of getting my hands on one, & the cam support. Does this audi forum club do loans or rentals (I wish)? I see blauparts rents the tools for 7 days but must buy timing belt kit from them. Prior owner of A6 already changed belt, water pump, & pulleys in Feb. '11 (per receipts), but neglected all the leaks. Ebay lists crank lock pin but I don't know for sure if it's the right one for the car, but it looks right. VW AUDI Crank Shaft Locking Pin Tool 1519 | eBay
Not sure what to make of these codes.
Applicable : V6 . V8 engine.
Audi : AAH, AFC, AHA, AKB, ART, ATQ, AUX, AVK, AWN, AYS, BBD, BCY, BEL, BFM, BGK, BHF, BNK & BSB.

 

That ebay lock pin will work. Those codes are engine codes. Your 2.7T is APB. I am not sure why it is not listed, but it will work.

 

Crank Lock pin ordered. Front brakes, rotors, CV boots, & speakers
delivered today. Paint scrapper, ~1/2 roll of paper towels, & mineral spirits got engine front cleaned up pretty good. More to do on sides, back & below. Plan to change out several leaky PS oil hoses among other things. Don't like the looks of the kink in PS line, but I don't think it's cracked cause it probably would have been leaking fluid & made a bigger mess. It wasn't me, I swear! Maybe a junkyard trip.
So, anyone care to tell me what this post is for on front lower engine right. Surely there must be a purpose for it. Looks like it just floats in the middle of a pocket on the radiator assy.

Got the crank lock plug out & found this green o-ring stuck in oily muck below it. Not sure if I dropped it when I pulled plug or it was leftover from someones prior work. Anyway, it'll get put back correctly.
While I'm fixing oil leaks & thought I might as well redo the lower oil pan gasket. Looks to be easily accessible. Haven't checked it yet, but does oil pan use a gasket, or just RTV?