just fixed my LCD (MAXIDOT) today !!! :)
#21
PM sent.
#22
Can you send me the instructions as well I am considering this. I'll PM my email address
#23
Well I got into the changing of the LCD display. The dissasembly of the speedo is pretty srtraight forward, the toughest part is the removal of the needles. You just have to pry them up.
Now the one issue I have is the actual removal of the old and re-inatallation of the new LCD. The connection to the curcuit board is a flat ribbon cable, no solder is visable. See pictures attached. So my question is for the original creator of this thred, how do you remove the old LCD without damaging the board and install the new LCD?
JR
Now the one issue I have is the actual removal of the old and re-inatallation of the new LCD. The connection to the curcuit board is a flat ribbon cable, no solder is visable. See pictures attached. So my question is for the original creator of this thred, how do you remove the old LCD without damaging the board and install the new LCD?
JR
Last edited by kprc51; 05-19-2009 at 11:10 AM.
#24
Well since we did not receive any formal instructions from VRSO2 on how to remove and replace the LCD, i did a little searching on the internet and what I found did not make me too happy.
The only correct way to cennect the "Flex LCD Connector" to a circuit board is a process called "Hot Bar Bonding". It utilizes a pretty expensive machine to lign up, heat up and press together the cable and the circuit board.
See the attached link.
http://knol.google.com/k/wilbert-lao...zumat9kqfmm/1#
I consider myself very able with tools, but this is one thing that I definately should NOT have tackled. The potential is definately there to completely mess up your entire speedo. I don't care how much soldering experiance someone has, this is an extremaly delicate operation which requires very expensive machinery to carry out correctly.
So until I read a easy-to-follow set of instructions on how to do this, I would discourage anyone from buying these LCD's as there is no easy way to replace them.
On the other hand I could be completely off my rocker and wrong, in that case I would like to ask for vrso2 to forward a set of instructions for everyone to see on how to do this safely and effectively.
JR
The only correct way to cennect the "Flex LCD Connector" to a circuit board is a process called "Hot Bar Bonding". It utilizes a pretty expensive machine to lign up, heat up and press together the cable and the circuit board.
See the attached link.
http://knol.google.com/k/wilbert-lao...zumat9kqfmm/1#
I consider myself very able with tools, but this is one thing that I definately should NOT have tackled. The potential is definately there to completely mess up your entire speedo. I don't care how much soldering experiance someone has, this is an extremaly delicate operation which requires very expensive machinery to carry out correctly.
So until I read a easy-to-follow set of instructions on how to do this, I would discourage anyone from buying these LCD's as there is no easy way to replace them.
On the other hand I could be completely off my rocker and wrong, in that case I would like to ask for vrso2 to forward a set of instructions for everyone to see on how to do this safely and effectively.
JR
Last edited by kprc51; 05-20-2009 at 03:34 PM.
#25
Check this out...
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263498
and from there
http://www.chipquik.com/smd1.htm
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263498
and from there
http://www.chipquik.com/smd1.htm
#27
hehe
sorry, i was busy with fishing
here is step by step photo manual made by me.
1. remove the panel - just pull it out
2. unscrew two philips screws and pull instrument cluster ("IC") out of the bay - i used screw driver to pod it
3. unlock harnesses - use flat screw driver, and flip " purple lock" to remove harness
4. unplug all three connectors and pull "IC" out from the dash board
here is step by step photo manual made by me.
1. remove the panel - just pull it out
2. unscrew two philips screws and pull instrument cluster ("IC") out of the bay - i used screw driver to pod it
3. unlock harnesses - use flat screw driver, and flip " purple lock" to remove harness
4. unplug all three connectors and pull "IC" out from the dash board
Last edited by vrso2; 05-26-2009 at 12:25 AM.
#28
heheh
more ...
5. Unscrew and remove two plastic covers on back side of "IC"
6. Unclip six clips - around the back cover - use some flat tool and be careful to not break clips
7. remove back cover
8. unclip two clips - one on each side
5. Unscrew and remove two plastic covers on back side of "IC"
6. Unclip six clips - around the back cover - use some flat tool and be careful to not break clips
7. remove back cover
8. unclip two clips - one on each side
Last edited by vrso2; 05-26-2009 at 12:29 AM.
#29
hehe
and more ...
9. Mark position of pointers (RPM, TEMP, FUEL) and set clocks to 6:00
10. separate RPM back plate by the rest back plate - cut bar where connect with TEMP back plate - see pic with pliers
11. from back side unclip RPM back panel and remove
12. move a side gauge face
9. Mark position of pointers (RPM, TEMP, FUEL) and set clocks to 6:00
10. separate RPM back plate by the rest back plate - cut bar where connect with TEMP back plate - see pic with pliers
11. from back side unclip RPM back panel and remove
12. move a side gauge face
Last edited by vrso2; 05-26-2009 at 12:42 AM.
#30
hehe
more ...
13. remove metal frame and now u have full access for MAXIDOT
14. Apply CHIP QUIK® Rework Paste Flux
15. apply CHIP QUIK® Material (wire) and heat with solder machine
16. Remove old MAXIDOT - be careful to not tear contact on main board.
17. Clean main board contacts - i used desoldering vacuum pump and cleaning wick
18. apply CHIP QUIK® Rework Paste Flux for easy soldering
19. align new MAXIDOT with contacts on main board and solder first one to secure LCD
20. Check alignment and adjust if necessary
21. solder spot by spot - keep solder tip on each spot for few sec.
13. remove metal frame and now u have full access for MAXIDOT
14. Apply CHIP QUIK® Rework Paste Flux
15. apply CHIP QUIK® Material (wire) and heat with solder machine
16. Remove old MAXIDOT - be careful to not tear contact on main board.
17. Clean main board contacts - i used desoldering vacuum pump and cleaning wick
18. apply CHIP QUIK® Rework Paste Flux for easy soldering
19. align new MAXIDOT with contacts on main board and solder first one to secure LCD
20. Check alignment and adjust if necessary
21. solder spot by spot - keep solder tip on each spot for few sec.
Last edited by vrso2; 05-26-2009 at 12:58 AM.