How much did everyone pay/question for problem
#1
How much did everyone pay/question for problem
Hey everyone, its that time to do rotors and pads and i am wandering what is a normal price, i guess i mean average. What is too much and and too little, also cross drilled or just regular ones please let me know, because i want to get the right deal keep in mind i said right not good because it still should good quality stuff. Thanks please post asap if you can ill check up later on.
Also, i need to find out urgently what is going on with the car. Here are symptoms: When your driving at like 60 Km/h its seems alright or any high speed seems alright, but when you stop at red light or stop sign and your pressing on brakes while in Drive, the car starts to shake and its gets worse and worse usually after like half hour- to an hour driving it shakes even harder and its actually scary and i got no clue where its coming from. It even shook once when i put it Parking but regularly its just does it on brake on drive.
Of-course I tried to do some research on my own and learned that a bad coil pack might cause this but i don't even know where its located and how to check it. I also checked the codes and all I got was O2 sensors and ABS module is done in the rear Left wheel, thats pretty much it, anyways you the pros so please help me out. Ill be on in couple hours thanks guys.
Also, i need to find out urgently what is going on with the car. Here are symptoms: When your driving at like 60 Km/h its seems alright or any high speed seems alright, but when you stop at red light or stop sign and your pressing on brakes while in Drive, the car starts to shake and its gets worse and worse usually after like half hour- to an hour driving it shakes even harder and its actually scary and i got no clue where its coming from. It even shook once when i put it Parking but regularly its just does it on brake on drive.
Of-course I tried to do some research on my own and learned that a bad coil pack might cause this but i don't even know where its located and how to check it. I also checked the codes and all I got was O2 sensors and ABS module is done in the rear Left wheel, thats pretty much it, anyways you the pros so please help me out. Ill be on in couple hours thanks guys.
#3
Brakes/ Rough Idle
Hi SilverAudiV6, I'll try and help you as much as I can. I can't really answer your question on the price of a brake job, unless you are specific with what parts you are getting and labor rates. I did my own brakes and only paid for the cost of the pads and rotors. I think that a fair price for labor would be somewhere bewteen $50-$75 hr. The parts for these cars are also not cheap. You should expect to pay $30-$40 dollars per rotor for the rear and $50-$90 per rotor for the front. Then you have to consider the additional cost of the slotted/drilled rotors which are more performance oriented and can cost easily twice what an OEM replacement can. Brake pads normally cost anywhere between $50-$90 per set for fronts (left and right) and $40-$60 per set for the rears (left and right)...keeping in mind that each model A6 is different and you will pay more for a premium set of pads. Also remember that the front pads have wear sensors built onto them and will typically be far more expensive than a traditional pad. The best advice I can give you if you are not mechanically inclined is to shop online for your own parts and then find an honest, capable mechanic or shop to maintain your car.
The abs issue you mentioned...I'm not completely clear on. If its a bad ABS Control Module (located in engine bay) it can be rebulit and if its an ABS wheel Speed Sensor (one located at each wheel hub) , you can have it replaced...normally around $130-$150 for the part. I will incude a few links to some parts suppliers that I have used and trust at the end of this reply.
The issue you mentioned concerning the rough idle is tough to diagnose without seeing or driving the car and could be caused by a number of reasons. For example, Bad coil(s), worn spark plug(s), dirty IAC (Idle Air Control Valve), dirty or clogged air filter or even a dirty MAF meter/sensor (Mass Air Flow), dirty or clogged fuel injector(s), or even a partially blocked fuel filter. These are more simple or typical things that could cause the issue, but remeber there could be other reasons for the rough idle. I remember you mentioning an MILF (Malfuntion Indicator Light) light being on...indcating that you have at least one bad O2 sensor. Usually these issues are emisions related items, but can affect drivability, fuel economy and should normally be corrected and repaired. Here are a few links for online parts suppliers I have used in the past. Their prices differ a bit and I would suggest you compare each for price part and shipping cost prior to placing any order.
http://www.replacementautoparts.com/
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/
http://www.parts.com/
http://www.autopartsplace.com/
http://www.blauparts.com/index.html
This last link is for a company that rebuilds ABS Control Modules and Driver Information Displays which we all will have to deal with at some point.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php
Good luck with the car and hopefully this information helps.
The abs issue you mentioned...I'm not completely clear on. If its a bad ABS Control Module (located in engine bay) it can be rebulit and if its an ABS wheel Speed Sensor (one located at each wheel hub) , you can have it replaced...normally around $130-$150 for the part. I will incude a few links to some parts suppliers that I have used and trust at the end of this reply.
The issue you mentioned concerning the rough idle is tough to diagnose without seeing or driving the car and could be caused by a number of reasons. For example, Bad coil(s), worn spark plug(s), dirty IAC (Idle Air Control Valve), dirty or clogged air filter or even a dirty MAF meter/sensor (Mass Air Flow), dirty or clogged fuel injector(s), or even a partially blocked fuel filter. These are more simple or typical things that could cause the issue, but remeber there could be other reasons for the rough idle. I remember you mentioning an MILF (Malfuntion Indicator Light) light being on...indcating that you have at least one bad O2 sensor. Usually these issues are emisions related items, but can affect drivability, fuel economy and should normally be corrected and repaired. Here are a few links for online parts suppliers I have used in the past. Their prices differ a bit and I would suggest you compare each for price part and shipping cost prior to placing any order.
http://www.replacementautoparts.com/
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/
http://www.parts.com/
http://www.autopartsplace.com/
http://www.blauparts.com/index.html
This last link is for a company that rebuilds ABS Control Modules and Driver Information Displays which we all will have to deal with at some point.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php
Good luck with the car and hopefully this information helps.
Last edited by TwinTurboC5; 01-27-2010 at 06:43 PM.
#5
Hi SilverAudiV6, I'll try and help you as much as I can. I can't really answer your question on the price of a brake job, unless you are specific with what parts you are getting and labor rates. I did my own brakes and only paid for the cost of the pads and rotors. I think that a fair price for labor would be somewhere bewteen $50-$75 hr. The parts for these cars are also not cheap. You should expect to pay $30-$40 dollars per rotor for the rear and $50-$90 per rotor for the front. Then you have to consider the additional cost of the slotted/drilled rotors which are more performance oriented and can cost easily twice what an OEM replacement can. Brake pads normally cost anywhere between $50-$90 per set for fronts (left and right) and $40-$60 per set for the rears (left and right)...keeping in mind that each model A6 is different and you will pay more for a premium set of pads. Also remember that the front pads have wear sensors built onto them and will typically be far more expensive than a traditional pad. The best advice I can give you if you are not mechanically inclined is to shop online for your own parts and then find an honest, capable mechanic or shop to maintain your car.
The abs issue you mentioned...I'm not completely clear on. If its a bad ABS Control Module (located in engine bay) it can be rebulit and if its an ABS wheel Speed Sensor (one located at each wheel hub) , you can have it replaced...normally around $130-$150 for the part. I will incude a few links to some parts suppliers that I have used and trust at the end of this reply.
The issue you mentioned concerning the rough idle is tough to diagnose without seeing or driving the car and could be caused by a number of reasons. For example, Bad coil(s), worn spark plug(s), dirty IAC (Idle Air Control Valve), dirty or clogged air filter or even a dirty MAF meter/sensor (Mass Air Flow), dirty or clogged fuel injector(s), or even a partially blocked fuel filter. These are more simple or typical things that could cause the issue, but remeber there could be other reasons for the rough idle. I remember you mentioning an MILF (Malfuntion Indicator Light) light being on...indcating that you have at least one bad O2 sensor. Usually these issues are emisions related items, but can affect drivability, fuel economy and should normally be corrected and repaired. Here are a few links for online parts suppliers I have used in the past. Their prices differ a bit and I would suggest you compare each for price part and shipping cost prior to placing any order.
http://www.replacementautoparts.com/
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/
http://www.parts.com/
http://www.autopartsplace.com/
http://www.blauparts.com/index.html
This last link is for a company that rebuilds ABS Control Modules and Driver Information Displays which we all will have to deal with at some point.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php
Good luck with the car and hopefully this information helps.
The abs issue you mentioned...I'm not completely clear on. If its a bad ABS Control Module (located in engine bay) it can be rebulit and if its an ABS wheel Speed Sensor (one located at each wheel hub) , you can have it replaced...normally around $130-$150 for the part. I will incude a few links to some parts suppliers that I have used and trust at the end of this reply.
The issue you mentioned concerning the rough idle is tough to diagnose without seeing or driving the car and could be caused by a number of reasons. For example, Bad coil(s), worn spark plug(s), dirty IAC (Idle Air Control Valve), dirty or clogged air filter or even a dirty MAF meter/sensor (Mass Air Flow), dirty or clogged fuel injector(s), or even a partially blocked fuel filter. These are more simple or typical things that could cause the issue, but remeber there could be other reasons for the rough idle. I remember you mentioning an MILF (Malfuntion Indicator Light) light being on...indcating that you have at least one bad O2 sensor. Usually these issues are emisions related items, but can affect drivability, fuel economy and should normally be corrected and repaired. Here are a few links for online parts suppliers I have used in the past. Their prices differ a bit and I would suggest you compare each for price part and shipping cost prior to placing any order.
http://www.replacementautoparts.com/
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/
http://www.parts.com/
http://www.autopartsplace.com/
http://www.blauparts.com/index.html
This last link is for a company that rebuilds ABS Control Modules and Driver Information Displays which we all will have to deal with at some point.
http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php
Good luck with the car and hopefully this information helps.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...:X:RTQ:CA:1123
Its from ebay I found but I wouldn't have it shipped I can pick it up myself. Also I am not sure if these pads have those sensors on them (is it necessary to have pads with the sensor).
My next concern is that idle stuff and I don't even know where to start as you mentioned there could be numerous things involved that can cause this. As I understand from reading all over the net this car does not have coils, its just a whole coil pack. And I am wandering is there a way to check them or you only know when you replace it if its good or bad from the result (in this case the idle would improve). Also the spark plugs, this sounds like something i can do myself maybe? Where are they located and how many of them and also how much are they or more importantly which ones to put.
I also just remembered that my mechanic (Audi specialist) mentioned that my rear right wheel barring is messed up and its also one of those things that probably should be replaced on each wheel, again if you can please let me know what is good price for those so i don't get ripped and what this can cause (so i know what the sense of urgency these have if i dont replace them what might happen).
Of the things you mentioned I actually will write it down after i finish this post, and show it my guy as a checklist of things to check and to clean them if its necessary.
Last but not least, for now is the Abs wheel sensor on my rear left wheel the scanner is sayings it bad so i am wandering what this can cause if i don't change is ASAP. I am leaving the o2 sensors to last.
Please look at the link for the brakes i posted and let me know if this is good or not, just some feedback. Overall I am 19 and I really am mechanically inclined just alot things i don't know yet but I would not be here if i was not interested to learn because if i get to know something i will try the best to do it myself.
Thanks a bunch once again I will talk to you later my friend.
#6
My next concern is that idle stuff and I don't even know where to start as you mentioned there could be numerous things involved that can cause this. As I understand from reading all over the net this car does not have coils, its just a whole coil pack. And I am wandering is there a way to check them or you only know when you replace it if its good or bad from the result (in this case the idle would improve). Also the spark plugs, this sounds like something i can do myself maybe? Where are they located and how many of them and also how much are they or more importantly which ones to put.
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2760602
^^now that DIY refers to the C6 models (i believe its 2003+) but I'd imagine its not too far.
What I'd suggest you doing if you are serious about doing some of this maintenance yourself (which i suggest because this is a very expensive car if you get the shop to do all your work) is to get a Bently repair manual online, you can find them on amazon for the cheapest for about 62$. That manual will provide you with almost everything you need from changing your oil to doing your own timing belt. Has wiring diagrams and lots of pictures and is necessary for any1 first learning how to perform basic/advanced maintenance on your car. Once you get that I'd also invest in a Vag-com which is a diagnostic tool used to read the codes that your car is spitting out. Its what your mechanic used to tell u that u have a bad abs wheel speed sensor, those can get pricey if you want the most up to date legit 1. All the information on that is at ross-tech.com (i think or somethin like that), watch out for intimidators on ebay that sell out of date cables or cables that dont do 100% of the job. All the vag-com is, is a cable that connects from your car to your laptop and spits out codes and you can also do alot of stuff with it as well. They run about 240$ with the cable and the applicable software as well. But if you buy those 2, you'll save alot of money sending it to the mechanic to do diagnostic work that you can do yourself.
Other than that, thats all i got for ya, hope all goes well.
Last edited by makav3li; 01-28-2010 at 06:22 AM.
#7
Here is a good DIY 55k tune up that includes spark plugs
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2760602
^^now that DIY refers to the C6 models (i believe its 2003+) but I'd imagine its not too far.
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2760602
^^now that DIY refers to the C6 models (i believe its 2003+) but I'd imagine its not too far.
#9
Brakes
Hi again SilverAudiV6,
Happy to hear that you enjoyed reading the earlier reply...Just tryin' to help you save some $money$. I looked at the brakes you're considering on Ebay, and don't know how to respond to the ad. The price is great, but the seller doesn't list any manufacturer or brand name and the warranty is not very good...it only warranties the rotors for 60 days. If you go into any part stores, almost all brakes and rotors being sold these days come with at least a 1 year, if not a lifetime warranty. But Please...don't let my opinion discourage you from getting what you want. Since the seller is on ebay you can always check into their feedback score to see how others have felt about their product and service. Good Luck with your car and remember a second opinion never hurts...especially when you're spending your hard earned money.
Happy to hear that you enjoyed reading the earlier reply...Just tryin' to help you save some $money$. I looked at the brakes you're considering on Ebay, and don't know how to respond to the ad. The price is great, but the seller doesn't list any manufacturer or brand name and the warranty is not very good...it only warranties the rotors for 60 days. If you go into any part stores, almost all brakes and rotors being sold these days come with at least a 1 year, if not a lifetime warranty. But Please...don't let my opinion discourage you from getting what you want. Since the seller is on ebay you can always check into their feedback score to see how others have felt about their product and service. Good Luck with your car and remember a second opinion never hurts...especially when you're spending your hard earned money.