Ok guys, I spent some real time searching the forums to see if anyone had posted a "how-to" on changing rotors/pads that included pics, descriptions, etc. I did not come across one good one that helped me. So here is mine, after figuring out things on my own :-) I hope this helps others, time & money, at the dealership. I know how much our A6's love to eat rotors/pads and so it is much easier to know how to DIY!

First things first, get all of the parts you will need. (See pic 1 & 2)
- New Rotors & Pads [OEM @ Dealership - Total $163 w/tax [REAR ONLY]
- Car jack with jack stands (Ramps will NOT work)
- Impact Gun with an 11/16 Impact Socket (to remove wheel)
- 13mm Socket with Ratchett and Ratchett extension
- 8mm Allen Wrench
- Rubber Mallot
- Clamp [Metal/wood clamp] (Forgot to take pic of! Sorry)
- One hour or so of your time

Ok, now that you have your parts, you're ready to begin:

Start by removing the wheel using your impact gun so you can gain access to the caliper, old pads, and rotor. The first thing you need to do is remove two 13mm bolts holding your caliper onto the rotor. (Pic #3) There is one on top and one on the bottom towards the ground. For this, I found I had to use a wrench (not the 8mm Allen) to hold the inside bolt of the caliper still, while I loosened the 13mm bolt.

Once those two bolts are removed, your caliper is now "free/loose." However, it's still going to be sitting pretty tight. Use your rubber mallot with a little bit of force to knock the caliper off of the old pads/rotor, hitting it towards the rear-end of the car.

Remove your old pads.

At this point, you are to the point of photo #4 (only with the old rotor). Now you may or may not have to remove the rotor bracket (Pic #4). On my driver side, I did. My passanger side I was able to just slip the old rotor out, wiggiling it around, and the new one in. If you have to remove this bracket: This is where your 8mm Allen Wrench comes into play. Looking closely at the back of this bracket you will see two allen bolts holding it onto the rotor. Place your 8mm allen wrench in the bolt, and using your rubber mallot, hit the allen wrench a few times until it becomes loose enough for you to loosen by yourself (they are TIGHT). Once the bracket is removed, remove the rotor (if your rotors are extremely rusty, again, you may have to give the rotor a few taps from behind to knock it loose (with the mallot of course).

Almost there! Now time for re-assembly!

Place your new rotor on to the wheel assembly, lining up bolt holes. [If removed] replace your rotor bracket and re-tighten the allen wrench bolts. Place your new pads on the rotor bracket as show in Pic #5.

Now pause. Before putting your caliper back in place, you need to use your clamp to squeeze the piston of the caliper back in. Without doing this, the caliper will never fit over the new pads.

Once the piston is pushed all the way back in, replace your caliper over the new pads. Re-tighten your 13mm caliper bolts; place your wheel back on, lining up the wheel holes, with the rotors' holes, to the wheel assembly holes; Grab your Impact gun, tighten all bolts (Doing opposite sides at a time); Lower your car and you're done! Wha-laa :-)

I hope this was helpful to those who need it. Ask any questions.

- Ben -

 

My comments - an excellent post.
Would like to add:
Just pressing the pistons WILL NOT work- due to their 20+ years design a twisting in is the way.
Never use an impact wrench on your wheels unless you are on flat rate.

 

Thanks nemohm :-)
I guess you're right - they did end up twisting in rather than pushing straight in. It took me a few moments to figure that out. Also, what do you mean by "on a flat rate?"

 

The rear calipers need twist and pressure for the pistons to go in. You can borrow the correct tool from Auto Zone or even buy one. It makes the job a lot easier. In a pinch you can use a clamp for the pressure and channel locks to turn but I've seen people mess up their calipers when not using the correct tool.

 

By "flat rate", he means "you quoted the job for $X and you can't charge more so you need to get done in as little time as possible and damn the consequences" as using an impact gun to tighten lugs bolts will ensure the impossibility of loosening them at some later date.