HELP! Malfunction Light...just bought car 2 days ago!! Battery drained, too.
#11
08-31-2011, 05:12 PM
Can I cry?
So. I picked-up the car this afternoon ... it runs perfectly since they installed the new/used alternator.
I start driving - and oh, about 30 minutes into my drive, the MIL light comes on again!! I gave them the codes when I dropped the car off, however I had thought that maybe the alternator was the root cause of those codes. I didn't say that, but it's what I thought.
Basically, the car that I've now owned for 5 days and driven for 2, has ANOTHER issue.
I bought it for a great price and expect to have random things come-up since it is getting older, however all of this %*#$ is really hard for me to deal with being that I am, in essence, a single mom right now.
P.S. I did play the husband/military card .... look where it's got me.
So. I picked-up the car this afternoon ... it runs perfectly since they installed the new/used alternator.
I start driving - and oh, about 30 minutes into my drive, the MIL light comes on again!! I gave them the codes when I dropped the car off, however I had thought that maybe the alternator was the root cause of those codes. I didn't say that, but it's what I thought.
Basically, the car that I've now owned for 5 days and driven for 2, has ANOTHER issue.
I bought it for a great price and expect to have random things come-up since it is getting older, however all of this %*#$ is really hard for me to deal with being that I am, in essence, a single mom right now.P.S. I did play the husband/military card .... look where it's got me.
#12
08-31-2011, 05:15 PM
Oh - and I did notice that my coolant display shows my car at 'cold' sometimes, then perfectly in the middle at other times. No indications as to certain driving conditions affecting it.... I can be driving for 20 minutes and the car registers cold, next time I look down, it's in the middle.
#13
08-31-2011, 05:26 PM
Unfortunately you have a few different issues at hands. Lets deal with one at a time.
1. Battery: Take the car to Napa. They can test the battery to see if it is holding charge. FYI, if the battery was drained, it would need to be charged prior to being tested. Also a typical alternator may not charge a fully drained battery. I would recommend that you have Napa charge the battery for a couple of hours and test it. They should do that for you for free. Come tell us what happened.
2. P0118: This is a fancy way of saying that your coolant temperature sensor is not working correctly. Most likely the sensor itself... Although it is inexpensive part that is easily done by a person with mechanical knowledge, if you are not comfortable with it, then take it to a shop. A reputable shop will replace the sensor in less than an hour, meaning, $150 or less total.
3. P0432 points to your driver side catalytic converter being bad. You can replace the converter (expensive) or drive around for awhile with the issue as it is. If you are tired of looking at the CEL being on, then search "anti fouler" trick. I think a user named bigdaddy sells a convenient "fix" that does not require modifying the spark plug anti fouler. The reason that I am calling it a quotation mark fix is that it is temporary in nature.
None of these issues will impact your safety. Feel free to drive around until a shop opens in the morning.
Also for the octane thing, these cars are designed to run on high octane stuff. Although it will run on the low stuff (engine will automatically adjust the mixture to run on the lower octane), it will not perform as well. Seriously if $3 on a fill up makes a difference, I would rather have one less latte a week than to skimp on the car.
1. Battery: Take the car to Napa. They can test the battery to see if it is holding charge. FYI, if the battery was drained, it would need to be charged prior to being tested. Also a typical alternator may not charge a fully drained battery. I would recommend that you have Napa charge the battery for a couple of hours and test it. They should do that for you for free. Come tell us what happened.
2. P0118: This is a fancy way of saying that your coolant temperature sensor is not working correctly. Most likely the sensor itself... Although it is inexpensive part that is easily done by a person with mechanical knowledge, if you are not comfortable with it, then take it to a shop. A reputable shop will replace the sensor in less than an hour, meaning, $150 or less total.
3. P0432 points to your driver side catalytic converter being bad. You can replace the converter (expensive) or drive around for awhile with the issue as it is. If you are tired of looking at the CEL being on, then search "anti fouler" trick. I think a user named bigdaddy sells a convenient "fix" that does not require modifying the spark plug anti fouler. The reason that I am calling it a quotation mark fix is that it is temporary in nature.
None of these issues will impact your safety. Feel free to drive around until a shop opens in the morning.
Also for the octane thing, these cars are designed to run on high octane stuff. Although it will run on the low stuff (engine will automatically adjust the mixture to run on the lower octane), it will not perform as well. Seriously if $3 on a fill up makes a difference, I would rather have one less latte a week than to skimp on the car.
#14
08-31-2011, 05:33 PM
hxgaser,
Yes, I read your incredibly helpful post. I am so grateful you took the time to write all that. Thank you!
I guess I'm just frustrated. It's not as though I have oodles of money to spend, nor do I have the luxury of anyone nearby to help me out with transportation if I were ever stranded.
I like nice cars .... always have (when I was 6 years old - 1976 - I was determined that a Mercedes 450 SL would be mine!). So, I try to do my research and figure out what would be the best for me and my needs while staying within my budget.
Apparently, I just didn't do enough research about the company I bought this car from.
The car runs perfectly though. The engine is solid and the ride is smooth .... so, could these lights be a random malfunction?? Probably not - was just dreaming.....
Yes, I read your incredibly helpful post. I am so grateful you took the time to write all that. Thank you!
I guess I'm just frustrated. It's not as though I have oodles of money to spend, nor do I have the luxury of anyone nearby to help me out with transportation if I were ever stranded.
I like nice cars .... always have (when I was 6 years old - 1976 - I was determined that a Mercedes 450 SL would be mine!). So, I try to do my research and figure out what would be the best for me and my needs while staying within my budget.
Apparently, I just didn't do enough research about the company I bought this car from.
The car runs perfectly though. The engine is solid and the ride is smooth .... so, could these lights be a random malfunction?? Probably not - was just dreaming.....
#15
08-31-2011, 08:18 PM
Temp gauge fluctuating points to the Coolant Temperature Sensor being bad. If you want to do it yourself, you can get one from here.
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Get a securing clip as well while at it.
Anyways, your model A6 in general (the same as mine) requires a lot of attention. Don't get me wrong, I love my car. It is comfortable, versatile, and safe; however, I understand that I will be working on it... a lot... Also I don't mind spending a few dollars on it when something goes wrong. If you are looking for a reliable car which you don't have to spend time and money, then I recommend that you sell the car, even at a bit of loss. Trust me, you will be putting in more than what you are losing on the car if you were to keep it.
Let me tell you one thing though... My wife thinks that I am the king of stupid blowing money on a 10 year old car. She drives a newer, more reliable Honda that does not compare to mine when it comes to repairs... BUT I know that she secretly likes my car better because we take my car everywhere when we are go on a family outing... Never hers... That says something about the Audi.
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Get a securing clip as well while at it.
Anyways, your model A6 in general (the same as mine) requires a lot of attention. Don't get me wrong, I love my car. It is comfortable, versatile, and safe; however, I understand that I will be working on it... a lot... Also I don't mind spending a few dollars on it when something goes wrong. If you are looking for a reliable car which you don't have to spend time and money, then I recommend that you sell the car, even at a bit of loss. Trust me, you will be putting in more than what you are losing on the car if you were to keep it.
Let me tell you one thing though... My wife thinks that I am the king of stupid blowing money on a 10 year old car. She drives a newer, more reliable Honda that does not compare to mine when it comes to repairs... BUT I know that she secretly likes my car better because we take my car everywhere when we are go on a family outing... Never hers... That says something about the Audi.
#16
08-31-2011, 09:07 PM
Oh hxgaser,
Why couldn't you live in the Midwest? I wish I knew someone who knows Audi's and lived nearby. :/
I totally understand your wife's desire for the reliability factor.....and while I desire that immensely, I also desire some good 'ol German/Swedish engineering and style. Ugh. Unless my income is unlimited, I ought to let go of my silly pipe-dreams and buy a used Toyota.
May I ask a question and please - anyone - if you have an answer, shoot. My last car was a 1998 BMW 528i with 192K. It was a solid car, but needed so much done around the tires/wheels/rods/struts/bearings, etc. ... do you think that a 1999 Audi A6 Avant Quattro 2.7L wagon with the same miles is bound to be an even bigger headache? SUCH a broad question, I know. Really, a car is as good as its' previous owners kept it to be. I guess, that question is on a time-tested level.
I'm just talkin' out my ****, huh?
And just an FYI: I've had 3 Volvo's (all had many issues), a Mercedes 300te wagon (total champ at 250K - even drove across the US twice in its latter years), a GTI (I was a teenager and ran that thing into the ground way earlier than need be), a BMW (the aforementioned), and my all-time love: a Saab 9-5 (which is THE smoothest, coolest ride until the Turbo goes out...yup). My Audi is a first for me .... and as I said, the engine feels super strong and the ride is smooth. Yet, being a mechanical/electrical neophyte, one can only wonder how many times I'll be stranded on the side of the rode in my super stylish car.
Yay me.
Why couldn't you live in the Midwest? I wish I knew someone who knows Audi's and lived nearby. :/
I totally understand your wife's desire for the reliability factor.....and while I desire that immensely, I also desire some good 'ol German/Swedish engineering and style. Ugh. Unless my income is unlimited, I ought to let go of my silly pipe-dreams and buy a used Toyota.
May I ask a question and please - anyone - if you have an answer, shoot. My last car was a 1998 BMW 528i with 192K. It was a solid car, but needed so much done around the tires/wheels/rods/struts/bearings, etc. ... do you think that a 1999 Audi A6 Avant Quattro 2.7L wagon with the same miles is bound to be an even bigger headache? SUCH a broad question, I know. Really, a car is as good as its' previous owners kept it to be. I guess, that question is on a time-tested level.
I'm just talkin' out my ****, huh?
And just an FYI: I've had 3 Volvo's (all had many issues), a Mercedes 300te wagon (total champ at 250K - even drove across the US twice in its latter years), a GTI (I was a teenager and ran that thing into the ground way earlier than need be), a BMW (the aforementioned), and my all-time love: a Saab 9-5 (which is THE smoothest, coolest ride until the Turbo goes out...yup). My Audi is a first for me .... and as I said, the engine feels super strong and the ride is smooth. Yet, being a mechanical/electrical neophyte, one can only wonder how many times I'll be stranded on the side of the rode in my super stylish car.
Yay me.
#17
09-01-2011, 09:46 AM
To answer your last question: most likely. My car is a 2002 with a 110k miles and I had to replace all the fun stuff you were describing - Axles, control arms, struts. Prior to that a timing belt job. These are major projects and even expensive if you DIY.
I have no idea in what condition your car is but I do know they have a lot of control arms fail within the first 100k. Well I shouldn't say fail but going bad as in if you care for handling and safety they should get fixed.
My Audi wasn't really bad so far, all the expenses were kind of expected to be honest and I don't regret getting this car. However if I had to go to a shop to get all this stuff fixed (and more that I didn't list) I would be broke by now and very frustrated.
You mentioned earlier you are in the Midwest, what area?
I have no idea in what condition your car is but I do know they have a lot of control arms fail within the first 100k. Well I shouldn't say fail but going bad as in if you care for handling and safety they should get fixed.
My Audi wasn't really bad so far, all the expenses were kind of expected to be honest and I don't regret getting this car. However if I had to go to a shop to get all this stuff fixed (and more that I didn't list) I would be broke by now and very frustrated.
You mentioned earlier you are in the Midwest, what area?
#18
09-01-2011, 01:50 PM
I jumped from a 1999 BMW 528iT wagon to 2001 A6 Avant. (FYI I think you are referring to a 2.8L. If you have an Avant with a 2.7L turbo, I will come buy it from you right now. Cash... They never had that setup in this country.) They have different driving dynamics for sure. As for the reliability wise, they are about the same. I would say that the bimmer was a bit less expensive to maintain, but it is not because the bimmer was more reliable. Inline 6/Rear wheel drive in the bimmer was easier to maintain/work on compared to the V6, all wheel drive system in the Audi. Also, something to clarify is that any cars over 10 years old will require maintenance. Suspension stuff will go, emission stuff will fail and etc. Also you hit it dead on saying that it all depends on how the previous owner took care of the car.
So to simply answer your question, from my experience, your audi will cost more to maintain than the bimmer.
So to simply answer your question, from my experience, your audi will cost more to maintain than the bimmer.
#19
09-06-2011, 11:50 AM
Hxgaser ....
Wowza! I have a hot commodity? Yup - it's the 2.7L turbo.....
Sheldon - I'm in the Twin Cities area.
OK - so the check engine light is still on, but the car is running great. I do notice that the temp sensor works randomly....but never goes above the mid-line when working. I guess, I'm not too worried about it all right now. I'll take it to a mechanic soon, but thankfully am feeling pretty safe in it.
Wowza! I have a hot commodity? Yup - it's the 2.7L turbo.....
Sheldon - I'm in the Twin Cities area.
OK - so the check engine light is still on, but the car is running great. I do notice that the temp sensor works randomly....but never goes above the mid-line when working. I guess, I'm not too worried about it all right now. I'll take it to a mechanic soon, but thankfully am feeling pretty safe in it.
#20
09-06-2011, 01:08 PM
Holy smokes... Really? 2.7T in an avant? Don't tell me that you have a 6 speed manual transmission in there. If you do, I will seriously buy that car off of you. I am not kidding.
Do you by any chance have pictures of the car? Including the engine bay? Now I am really intrigued. Good catch!
Do you by any chance have pictures of the car? Including the engine bay? Now I am really intrigued. Good catch!