K&N filter is bad for MAF
O2 relocate is better the a CEL reset software (you gas milage will go out the window)
any metal DV will give you the woosh sound you are looking for (blow offs are a bad idea)

 

I mean the Pre-oiled K&N filter will be fine. I have had mine on for about a month now with no problems at all. The reason the K&N is potentially bad it when people over oil it. I would recomend the filter for 2 reasons. 1st is the air flow... obvious, but 2nd if you have ever changed the filter you know what a PITA it can be opening the airbox and re-clipping thoes clips (I think the devil himself designed that POS clip on the back of the airbox that you can only get to if you hands are the size of a f***ing 5 year old....) anwayIt is an annoying thing. So if you have to change the filter anyway why not put one it you will never have to change.

 

You never have to REPLACE it but... you still need to clean and oil it just as you would otherwise put in a new stock filter.

 

Yeah I realized that, but I probly wont have to do again because the car will most likley be sold before that.

 

Yeah i think you only need to oil it like every 50,000 miles?

 

Any recomendations on the TBB? I'm considering the Samco TBB. How's the APR Bipipe?

 

Someone correct me if im wrong but basically:

If your on more of a budget or would just rather save a few hundred bucks, get the Samco. If you want a rock solid part (not that the Samco isnt) and have expendable income, get the BiPipe.

 

Right on, but I hear that even stage 3 cars run samco and the bipipe's build quality is going down hill. I was seriously considering tv bipipe untill I read about someone who's bipipe broke. I figure the samco will hold up and even it it breaks its still not 300 bucks

 

Back to the matter of Chip tuning:

If i take my car in to get the APR chip (for example), I would be paying 599 bucks, plus if i wanted the flipswitch (wheres that go anyways? vag-com?) im adding another 150 bucks for 2 programs (1 stock and 1 93 octane) and im adding the fault code erase/TB alignment for another 50 dollars.

Im up to 800 dollars for a chip tune, and since im taking it to someone they would charge me like....100 for the install?

Also: since I have tiptronic, what happens to my current sport mode when I chip? Will it no longer make a diff whether I have the car in D or S (it'd be cool if throwing it in S would be what initiated the higher octane software, but i realize that needs done on startup)? AND since I have tip, could I do the apr chip AND later do the giac tip chip for faster shifting, or would that yield incompatibility with the software?

If a hummingbird is flying at 11 kmph going south and.....perhaps i've asked enough questions already....

I know im probably asking ubernoob questions, but i just want to know how this whole thing goes down and how much money I need to set aside.

 

No worries I recently had this done. The apr chip cam be installed at a dealer for free. It gets loaded through the obd port. Then to switch programs you hold the cruse control button for a few seconds and it switches. Its easy I'm not sue if you pay for install with the switch but to load programs should be free. I would still consider buying GIAC i love my apr, but it is smooth and I like that kick in the *** from GIAC chip