You bought an original ZF rebuild kit from Transtar industries in Sarasota for your 00 A6 Quatrro 4.2L V8 non Turbo. Which instructions did you use when rebuilding your transmission? Were you using the BentleyPublishers.com Audi shop manual CD? Why did you rebuild the transmission? Perhaps it only needed a new filter and ATF correctly installed per Bentley.

 

It was going into limp mode and giving me a check engine p0734 code. Fourth gear ratio incorrect. Transmission was slipping on fourth. What I suspect happened was that the computer that controls the Transmission under the rug was wet. Previous owner drove it like that. This caused the converter clutch to wear out and clutch pack B to burn up (trying to drive it while stuck on fouth) overheating drum b and almost causing major damage , but I stopped driving it after I bought the computer. It was shifting fine until It reached fourth. I dropped the pan and the oil was tar black. I was forced to make a decision. Throw the car away, get raped financially without Vaseline from a shop....Or suck it up and do it myself.
I buy my transmission rebuild kits from TRANSTAR INDUSTRIES INC. The website is here... www.transtarindustries.com

Check, they may have one near your house, you never know. This is where most transmission repair shops get parts. Then they stick it to you for $4800 bucks or more. The parts of your ZF transmission are dirt cheap $550 bucks total for the whole rebuild kit. Unless you just want to fix one little thing and put it back in. In my opinion, the hardest part was taking it off and CLEANING! You have to buy 5 gallans of degreaser and clean alot of **** especially the carrier underneath. Once everything is clean (tools included) it makes the job so much easier. Everything is nice and clean and organized. Buy a big box of disposable rubber gloves too.

If you need Audi Parts (of any kind) there are several Audi-only salvage yards, but my favorite is SHOKAN Coachworks www.shokan.com


If you need a transmission repair manual for your specific Audi Transmission, you can get it at Automatic Transmission Service Group (ATSG) website is here... www.atsg.com . I have the ZF5HP24A (the letter "A" is for all wheel drive, don't confuse it ) book and I don't need it anymore. It was the best manual I ever seen with good photographs and very simple procedures to dissasemble and reinstall. There was so many little parts and washers and bearrings that I had no clue how they went back in, and the manual shows you clearly and flawlessly.


I have repaired other foreign vehicles in my life, but never an Audi Trany. It was out on the floor in two days, and I took it apart to inspect the damage. I took the tranny apart CAREFULLY, following step by step instructions.It was a pain in the *** removing the ATF Oil Supply assembly without the Audi shop tool they illustrate. I used a vice grip pliers and a dent puller and hammered it out without a scratch! Flawless! I should have been an engineer my wife said. I had to improvise also with the removal of the clutch pistons to replace the seals.
You don't have to do all this if your tranny parts look new and has low mileage, but I did all this work and just don't want to take a chance on a 5 cent rubber ring seal.
By the way, all the parts inside looked new. The culprit was clutch pack "B" . That's what they call it in the manual. All the friction plates in clutch pack "B" (6) were burnt almost to the metal. Lucky thing I stopped driving it or it would have been metal to metal grinding going on to destroy more parts. Bentley manual(alternative manual) goes on to explain that if you are slipping on fourth or fifth gear(doesn't matter), then your converter clutch (integrated with the converter -built in) is failing, causing Clutch pack "B" to overheat. This is probably what is making the transmission control module go into fail safe mode and the car free revs in drive until you shut it off (limp Mode). Don't ask me how that works, I just pulled the clutches apart to inspect them, and the gosh darn manual was right on the money! clutch "b" cylinder looked black and all the friction plates were scorched. So, I needed a new torque converter $109 bucks at DACCO of detroit in Orlando(incase you want to buy one or rebuild yours) the dealer has them for $1100 bucks(bastards) no one else carries converters in our national chains. And you sure as hell don't want to buy a used one... So, the master rebuild kit cost me $550 bucks, plus I'm changed the oil to Mobil 1 fully synthetic ATF(which is way cheaper, and I can get it at Wal-mart for crying out loud(compared to the dealer's Esso LT 71141 oil).
I restocked it with this ATF Oil. I'm not spending $300 on oil from Germany, when clearly everyone is saying in forums that Audi/Volkswagens/Bmw oil is Dexron IID(worse than Dexron III).

Here is the Mobil website if you want to compare specs. They say their oil exceeds and out performs Audi's. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...hetic_ATF.aspx
It was easy to rebuild, You just need alot a patience, Good spec manuals. plenty of room, clean organized area, about three weeks (take your time), an engine hoist $200 at advance auto because you have to support the engine while you remove the entire subframe, lots of desel and degreaser, four jack stands, and two hydraulic jacks(to put it back in I used two Hydaulic jacks and three men to wiggle that monster in and get a bolt started- 15 minutes and alot of muscle) the rest of the work I did myself,It took 4 days little by little putting stuff back in. I am slow, maybe you can do it faster. Oh and you have to have air tools, this really helps. You need torx sockets(these cars use alot of specialty tools, but I improvised) hex sockets, swivels, twelve point torx driver, (to remove the front drive shafts). I already have all these tools because I fix cars and have bought them over the years. But, it is not expensive at all. Compared to $4800 or more at a shop.

Study the manual first. Go over the proceedures in your mind for a day or two. study, all the details, and act the part in your mind. Think about how expensive it will be to tow it to the shop and have them fix it. hopefully you will be motivated like me to drop a tranny and fix it yourself!. Audi maintains value in the market place, it is worth fixing because they are built well. I feel so good and confident now. I can drive this car to Alaska without doubts because I know what's in there. I also changed the oil from Audi's expensive ESSO life time oil(bull **** it was black and dirty), to Mobile 1 synthetic ATF. It it running smooth, I love the power it has now. It shifts flawlessly. You do not have to spend $600 dollars on everything in there, Just buy the frictions and fix what ever clutch pack is burnt out. I noticed that I was taking out seals and they looked new, I was doing double work. It was not neccesary in my case to take every little thing apart and change all those pain in the *** seals and berrings. They look new. It would have been a $50 job if I just bought clutch B frictions and definately have your converter rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one. New ones cost too much.

 

Glad to hear that it is now running well.

 

Excellent post for a very impressive story!

BTW:
Did you rebuild the TC and how - did you replace the "captive clutch" (lock up clutch)?
Or just replace the seal?
Did you do any welding to replace the clutch (not the transm clutch, but the TC clutch)?

 

I am glad it worked out for you, and I am also glad neither of us is homo!
Enjoy the fruit of your labor, and the satisfaction of a job well done!

 

I sent the torque converter out to Tennessee to a company called Dacco of Detroit. They rebuilt it and sent it back new looking. I have no clue what they did, they have the industrial equipment to open thousands of converters and rebuild them and balance them to specs, But the manual shows you how to test the converter with a torque wrench and an adapter, before installing. It was all good. So I filled it with mobil 1 and popped it into the bell housing, and that's all she wrote.

 

I have the same problem, but am not too good with cars. Any idea what a local shop would charge for the repair (and maybe what is a reliable shop that won't mess with my car)?

I have the 99 A6 Quattro 2.8L

 

A Shop is set up to MAKE MONEY! They will tell you to just leave it and as soon as you leave, the billing begins! I cannot speak for every shop in the country, but every shop in my city Tampa, will tell you that you are looking anywhere from $50-$9000 depending on what they find. So, there is no solid number I can give you. They all ask you to leave the car, and they will see.
I can share one experience with a friend of mine:
His car starts bucking and shifting eractically. Check engine light comes on. Then he gets stuck one day. He tolls car to a "nice reputable" shop and the next morning they tell him he's gonna need a new transmission and he's looking at about $4000 grand depending what happens along they way.
He calls me crying asking what to do. I ask "did they tell you what they think the problem is?" He says no . I said gimme the number. I call and ask the shop what exactly is going on with the trany since they had more than a day to check it and they have all the equipment to diagnose it. The shop tells me over the phone"it's messed up"... I said, No ****! I know the transmission doesn't work! that's why we sent it to you in the first place! What I want to know is WHY it doesn't work! He says his guy found alot of codes. I asked him what are the codes he specifically found. He says he doesnt know. I said put the guy on. he says, guy is busy. I said I have my car in your shop and it has been two days and you don't have the codes written down to tell me what your diagnosis is? In the mean time the clock is ticking and the meter is running. Car was towed out immediately to my house. I was checking it all over and found that the rug was wet. These cars are famous for wet rug syndrome. The computer was replaced and car runs fine. So this is an example of what to expect from a shop. A system set up to extract as much money from you as possible for their services. I would rather pay a crack head to drop the transmission in my house. Then I would buy a rebuilt one if I didnt know how to fix transmissions. When transmission comes in, pay said crack head to install it. You can post on craigslist " Need help dropping a transmission, will pay $150 bucks" beats paying the shop $2000 for labor.

 

What was the cost for rebuilding the TC?
What are the warranties on it?

 

131 dollars exactly to rebuild same TC. Took five days waiting not including week end. The warranty is for 90 days. It's been a month. It shifts fine so far. The warranty is simple. If it doesn't work take it back or send it before 90 days is up. They recheck it. But do you think I am gonna take out the converter if it messes up??? Hell to the No! I never seen a small car with a dump truck transmission! This zf5hp24a is huge! Pain in the *** to take out. I don't even want to think about warranties or if it breaks. Next time it's going to the salvage yard.