Remove the rear seat. Under it on the right hand side is a metal cover with 3 phillips head screws. Remove the cover. Under that is the top of the fuel pump assembly. There will be a couple of lines and a connector with 4 wires. Disconnect the wire connector. Have your wife crank the car and measure voltage at the connector between the two larger wires. You may have to peel back a rubber boot to see which wires are the big ones. If you have 12v then the relay and all that wiring is good and you need a fuel pump. Other wise you have a wiring/relay problem.

 

Thanks dankhound for helping me again!

I tried to pull the seat bench out but it wasn't successful. As far as I know, I should just pull it up and out, but it did not want to move. Should I just pull it harder?

BTW, just my own curiosity, there is another cap under the cover of the trunck that has three screwson it. I removed the cap, and there is a two-wire connector, is it related to the fuel tank as well?

Thanks.

 

Unless its a pre 98 theres not bolts holding it in. Your just not pulling hard enough. Sometimes they stick a little. Under the seat theres a couple more covers just like that. The one you want is on the passenger side. The one in the trunk is a fuel level sender for the gauge.

 

Thanks dankhound. I've got the readings on the connector. The two wires on the outside are the larger ones. I turned the key to ON, the reading is 4.17V; I turned the key over, the reading is 10.85V.

I then have a couple questions regarding this:

1)I thoughtit would be either no reading or 12V, why it is like this? My battery may not be full because the car has been sitting here but I thought there was a voltage regulator or something?
2)Even if it is less than 12V, shouldn't the fuel pump run anyways? Maybe just a little slower?

Thanks.

 

simple really the battery is stuffed and/or the alternator isn't producing a charge

 

The alternator is new, 2wks old. I measured the battery without turning key on, is 12.62V; with the key at ON position, it is 12.02V. I would imagine as I start cranking the engine, the voltage will drop until the engine is started. But shouldn't the fuel pump works for a couple of seconds when the key is at ON? Can I just plug a power supply at 12V to verify if the fuel pump is working or not?

 

This is barbaric I will admit, but take a rubber mallet and hit the top of the fuel pump cover. If the pump turns on, well then you know you need a new pump. Your batt is fine, so is your alternator. Have you been able to locate the fuel pump relay? If you do, give that a gentle tap as well, sometimes as the relays go bad they start to stick. I'm not sure what the voltage to the fuel pump is suppose to be, but it should be turning on with the voltage you listed. Unless for whatever reason it is only allowed to run with 12v.

But seriously just give it a whack, worked on my Volvo and I was able to get home. That car also ended up years later having a bad fuel pump relay. A whack to that got it up and running more than once till the new one arrived.

 

Thanks Jeffla, I tried to whack it with a rubber hammer, it did not change anything. As far as I know, the cap does not have a rigid connection to the fuel pump so I am not sure whether my hammering can have effect on the pump. I have not been able to locate which one is the fuel pump relay yet although I have access to the relay panel now.

I have measured the voltage on the fuse, it is 4.17V with the key at ON position. Can someone please tell me if this is the correct reading? Shouldn't it go up to 12V for a few seconds for the fuel pump to charge the system and then come down?

 

Your relay is working if you are getting 10.?? volts at the pump while cranking. If the relay was bad, you will get 0 voltage to the pump. Your pump is bad. The fuse for the pump is #28 and the relay is #372.

 

Id have to agree. 10 volts should be plenty to get the pump running. You need a new pump.