Bank 1, OH NO!
That's not the one on the back of the drivers side head.

It's in the front of the passenger under everything.
It's under the black cover just above the camshaft pulley.
I haven't replaced that yet but have been to the location several times.

You can do this it's just nuts and bolts.
You should get a bentley manual though to look through.
www.bentleypublishers.com down load it.

The sensor consists of two parts the wheel and the housing or "sensor pick-up" The housing is what you need to replace I doubt the wheel is bad. It is exactly what you see on the driver side. So you can prepare yourself.

It looks to me like you may be able to squeak in there with some good 1/4 drive universals and magnets to get it done with out unbolting the lock housing, But I'm not sure.
However I have had those front covers off with out removing the lock carrier but my 4.2 is in an A8 not a A6 so I'm not sure of your area constrictions.

"Bentley says" You need to pull the lock carrier and the fan off. then the cover on front of the bank 1 head or right head or passenger head it's all the same head. The bentley shows some specialty tools if your replacing the sensor wheel as well but it looks like you could improvise if you have a tool box full good intentions. I would say the black housing sensor is the problem not the sensor wheel. I don't see how the wheel would go bad.

FIRST THINGS FIRST!- like Chefro said;

Remove the terminal plug.
Use a nail file to scratch up the male pins on the sensor.
Use something to pinch the females closed.
Apply di-electric grease and plug in.
See if the code goes away.
I have remedied most sensor problems this way!!!

Auditech69 knows a lot about this engine.. When you have problems with it post under the A8 section also and he will respond. It is the same engine!

 

Hey Jack and thank you for posting.
It's on the back of the motor, passenger side. Looks like I have plenty of room to get in there after I move some hoses out of the way.

To just clean up the terminals do the two bolts have to come out? Will that harness disconnect from the thing some how without removing the bolts? Does it "unscrew or unclip"?

 

UPDATE:

Dam am I pissed. Was checking to see what I would need as far as tools as I'm waiting for the sensor to get here. While looking around I see the harness for the sensor is crushed underneath the valve cover that they just replaced the gaskets on.

Been ******* around in this car for days only to find out the dealer screwed it up. Back it goes!

Anyone need a sensor

 

I wouldn't let them think about touching my cars.

Give 'em hell!

 

It sounds like the "truth" in engineering is shadowed by the "cracks" (lack of professionalism) in the ladder's downpath...lol
You'd assume this luxurious brand have all of its technicians certified... sheesh...
Make sure you have them replace again that valve cover gasket

 

@ Jack....everytime I walk out of there I swear I'll never step foot in there again. It's like an exgirlfriend, you hate their guts but sometimes you wish you could spend just one day with them.
This ones a freebee though...I think.


@ Chefro....Goes in tomorrow morning and I'm certain they will have it all weekend. I already told them they are going to have to replace the gasket.

After this I have to tackle the two bank sensors throwing codes. They want over 300 a piece not including install. Some research shows I don't need them (first 15 seconds of starting car...pollution) but Audi won't shut the light off.

After that, got to find someone to do tie rod bushings. They want over 800 for that.

After that, gotta figure out what to do with this one headlight lens that is completely hazed out. The other looks brand new. It's really detracting from the appearance as the rest of the car looks brand new.

 

1. Have them do the freebie valve cover gasket and then take your car out of there! Make sure they did a better job this time and nothing else is pinched... If you took the car in initially just for the VCG and the car threw a code after they changed it, then they should replace the sensor for free since their sorry and retarded ***** pinched the harness.
It would probably give you a headache to fight them over it, but you can always contact the Corporate Headquarters and Better Business Bureau
After all, is their fault...
2. Have your guy at work clear the code with the Vagcom (does he have one or just a regular OBDII reader?).
You can always buy your own scanner or invest in VagCom.
Anyway, you only had the code for the Bank 1 sensor, right?
At the same time, make sure you cleaned the pins and the wires are not shorting due to their mistake...
It sounds like they really want to clean your pockets for their own fault..LMAO...Now suddenly both sensor need to be replaced? BIG FLAG...right there
3. If the code is coming back, probably the sensor needs be replaced.
I have no idea what type of sensor you got in that 4.2, but on a quick searchPartsGeek and AutoPartsWarehouse seem to have your sensor.

By the same token, if your sensor are looking like the one in my C4 and your 4.2L's engine code is BFM, then here's an option. This was a short search...I'm sure you can find the sensors without much headache...

4. There are several vendors that carry whole tie rod asesembly (with inner and outer ends). Buy your own and replace them. I don't think it's too bad of a job. For my car I can find a whole assembly for about $ 80/piece. I even came across a place with a set for about $ 99... (Mac Auto Parts)
However, you may just need the outer ends, which are way much simpler to replace...

5. AutoZone carries the 3M "Headlight Lens Restoration System", which is about $ 19 and comes with instructions. Moreover, they have DIY videos on their site and on Youtube.
From what I read (extensively), it comes across as the best restoring alternative to purchasing new headlights.
If you have a drill, you're in business.

Good luck with that sheister dealership....

 

Thanks for all that Chefro.

As it stands right now, they have the car, I have a loaner. I should hear something today. If they try and charge me one penny I will have the attention of the entire dealership plus some in the neighborhood. I told them to replace the harness they crushed and replace the valve cover gasket that it was crushed under. We'll see what happens.

Actually this went in for a routine oil change. They told me the valve cover gaskets were leaking. The only reason I let them do it is because I had been smelling a little oil from time to time and they already had the car. It's been dam cold out here and again I swore this was the last time.

A year ago I went in because my back brakes were grinding. That turned out to be a 1400 dollar job because one of the motors was seized for the electric break which caused the grinding in the first place. I threw a fit and they lowered it to 1100.

My buddy only has the OBDII reader. Hopefully the dealer will have this code cleared. The two other codes are those secondary combo valve sensors. They told me a few months ago (when only bank 1 was going off) that it was 300 and something just for part. I did some research and told them not to replace it. Now they both are throwing codes. I'm going to tackle it once I get the car back from this.

I'll check when I get to work but I don't think they stated which tie rod bushings were bad. I'm sure if I ask they will say all of them.

My lens is really bad. I'll put up a picture when I get a chance. I've been told when they are this bad that the cleaners don't work well. But for 19 bucks I'll give it a try. Looks like a hell of a job trying to replace it.

 

Chefro,
Read the invoice, they are calling them "upper control arm bushings". Does that sound like a DIY??

 

So now they changed from tie rod bushings to upper control arm bushings...

Well, everything is doable as in DIY, but you need the proper tools. I haven't personally changed control arm bushings, but I think it can be done granted you have a good hydraulic press.
From what I read, people buy the updated suspension kit carried by places like ECSTuning or Blaufergnugen and change the control arm as a whole unit. The control arms themselves appear to be undestructible - even if the metal rusts, but the bushings go bad.
I only have 2 control arms on my C4 (lucky me), so unfortunately I would be the last person qualified to give you advice on "how-to" for your 4.2L. There's a dreaded "pinch bolt" involved, but penetrating lubricant applied well in advance can make the job much easier.
A whole OCaP (Italian) Control arm Kit for your car is about $ 530 at Blaufergnugen. So over $ 800 for just replacing the upper c arm bushings doesn't sound like a deal. You need to figure out exactly what they want to replace for you...