Chefro - I found the Blauparts instructions.. There are 49 steps for the TB job with 13 pictures, another 16 steps with 9 picture for removing the front bumper on an A4, and a supplimental warning with 2 pictures about potential problems with the crankshaft pulley.

Since it is copyrigthed it would not be correct to post it here but if you send me an email address I'll make a pdf for you.

 

I just got back home.

I'll send you a PM, and believe me, I appreciate immensely the favor.

Thank you!

 

What can I say....you're the man!

Please, let me at least try to make you smile . Since you're the man, I propose a great song for the occasion.
The Man Song.

I go on a limb and hope you never came across it; if you did, I hope you haven't seen it in a while and it will crack you up once again.

Thanks again, NH.

Regards!

 

Chefro,

Had to get up early this AM to go to g'son's Soccer game. Didn't read the Forum last night or would have gone to the pal's place to get the measurements this PM.

Actually I still want to get the dimensions and finish this bar for my mec's garage. I think for the water pump and t'stat, I will probably ask the guys at the yard if they will install them. I buy most of my parts thru them, anyhow. Price is right. I mentioned 450 for the engine. 25 for a coil pack. Most outrageous part was an O2 sensor, I think 128 bucks. Bosch. Parts always here by the next afternoon.

Out of all the pdfs above, the one thing I don't really get is do all your loosening before you install the cam lock. Pics all show it. Line below one pic says "Now install the tool XXXX to hold the cam wheels." I'da thunk you'd put the bar on to loose the cam bolts. Mebbe you only have to do that if you don't have the crank lock, or ebbe they think the cam wheels will still be tight on the taper so if it moves, you can crank it back to TDC before you pull the wheels.

hx mentioned that there is a large enough hole over each cam bolt to fit a 24 mm socket through. That is pretty big. About 15/16. I think I would use the bar to hold the wheels in place to loose them.

Audi is good for using tapers without keys. My older ones, back to 79, were all just tapered, no keys. Find TDC with the camlobes, loose and turn the wheel to time. 2 Diesels, same thing. Injection pump had unkeyed taper. Loose the nut, turn a smidgeon to get in time. Advance, retard.

No surprise. At least to me. I built steam turbines once upon a time, 15 thousand HP no keys in the tapered coupling and shafts. Stress point for something that turns 15,000 RPM. Couplings could fly apart with that deep keyway in them.

Pull them up tight enough on a taper, no key needed. All but welded in place. I don't think the Audi's wheels are going to slip if you torque to spec.

Also neat, I didn't know that before the post of the orientation of the hole size, that both big holes lined up was proper TDC. The tool has large and small pins, mebbe 5/16 outside and 3/8 inside. You're a turn of the crank off.

Hope all goes well with you.

Cheers,

George

 

A week later and the tools still didn't show up... it was my first and last transaction with zdmak. They are as slow as molasses with the shipping, and got a bogus ups tracking number formed by CCCC+zipcode that shows ever since last Friday an "unavailable status"... which it makes sense, since I never seen before an ups tracking number in a such format...

George, as soon as I get the tools, I'll post as promised the dimensions for the holding bar.

 

Chefro,

Just as to shipping, not the lock tools. I know how you feel about shipping. My heating boiler quit on me last Tuesday night. After stores closed. Found one on line, ordered it.

Had an e-mail next AM with tracking number and delivery. Didn't read who it was from. Figured.... Friday, small box on the porch. It ain't my pump. LG phone coming from repairs.

Call the vendor. They tell me they're stock out. JAYSUUUS! Cancelled it and bought one at a local vendor. Got heat, again.

Why'n'ell they don't let you know such things, I don't know. Don't want to lose the sale?

Rant off.

Cheers,

George

 

George,

I finally got the tools today, although the delivery should have been last Friday. ZDmak + UPS = bad combo...

Anway, as promised, here are the dimensions. If you have any trouble figuring out what you need, please give me a buzz. I read the forum daily, so I'll reply fairly fast.
Good luck and enjoy. (Others interested, as well...)

1) Angle of the bend - as seen, about 30°


2) End section length up to the bend:



3) Middle straight section - in between the bent sections:



4) Tool's total length, directly from end to end (straight line):


5) Thickness of the metal sheet (depth):


6) Tool's width - about 2 inches:



7) Fastening rod length and span of its hook end:



8) Rod hole-related dimension:


9) Various dimension related to the hole(s):

 

Hey, bojdja.

I have the bent bar. I need the distance from inner pin to inner pin, outer pin to outer pin, and diameter of each pair. I think one pair is about 5/16 and the other 3/8.

I probably will have the mechs who have the tool do my WP and TStat. Dimensions will just allow me to make use of the bar I had bent, at no charge, into a tool for my other mechs to hang on their tool rack. Next time I need a TB they will have the tool.

I need dimensions on the crank lock pin to see if I can turn one on the lathe.

If you can make measurement pin to pin, inner and outer, thank you. If you bought the crank pin, and can give me dimensions, and thread pitch, double thank you.

Ja sam ijo gra na salatu za veceru, danasz. Ti petis?

Cheers,

george

 

Hi George

Well, first things first :

- Distance from inner pin to inner pin (bigger ones): 18-2/16''

- Distance from outer pin to outer pin (smaller ones): 22-7/16"

(Of course, I measured several times in between the same edges AND from center to center, for accuracy)

Lastly, here are the diameters of the pins
a) Smaller pin:



b) Larger pin:



The crankshaft pin in the next post to keep'em separate.

 

Ok, the total length of the pin is 3-1/8''.

My technical lingo is limited, so regarding the right size of the thread pitch I hope you get a better idea from the pics, rather than having me guessing. I found a "thread pitch" sizing chart online, but it is same as klingon to me.
The width of the threaded area is the same as the widest (diameter) dimension of the bolt = 6/8'' (12/16"'); except for a "flattened out" area toward the end of the pin. You can see that in the pics.

So, I will let the pics tell you the story. If you have anything else to ask, please do so.

Enjoy the meal this evening!

1) Length:
-

-
-
2) Width - at the widest section:
-

-
-
3) Ends - the head end is cut as a head bolt for 10-metric:
-

-

-
-
4) Dimensions of the different sections:
-

-

-

-

-
-
5) THREAD Pitch-related pics:
-

-

-

-

-

-
-

I hope you can make something out of these dimensions.

Good luck, and you're always welcome. No worries.

chefro.