Ok, please help me understand something, guys.
Either I'm reading too much in the (over)highly coveted bentley manual and the various write-ups out there, or all the contradictory information plays games with my mind.

As far as I get it, the cam sprockets are the key. Are these what you guys call "cam gears"? - I sort of suppose so, based on what Auditech suggested to do.
So the sprockets can actually be pulled "freely" (with the 2-arm puller) on the (cam)shaft they're turning, but the lock bar (3243) actually holds just the (cam)shafts themselves. Is this a fair description?
If that's the case, here is where the misunderstanding gets the best of my mind. (Please keep in mind I never looked at an installed TB, or its sprockets for that matter). Theory is one thing, and the practical application may be a totally different thing.

From what I see in the pics and read in the text(s), the 3243 locks the shafts in a position where is attached right on top of the sprockets' (what appears to me as a) big fastening bolt. The instructions say to attach the 3243 before realeasing the sprockets with the gear puller, in order to allow the belt to come loose. Since the sprockets can be released independently of the shaft itself, that makes sense. However...

Here is where I got some understanding problems:
- A previous step involves removing the pulley/vibration damper. Isn't that suppose to release already the tension and allow the belt to slide over? Or the damper isn't what would we call a "major player" in tensioning/tightening the belt?

- The instructions say to loosen those big bolts (24 mm is pretty big) about two turns - which allows you to actually pull the sprockets. Then remove the holding bar. Then pull the sprockets - with a "bang", the instructions mention.
a) Are the holes on the locking bar actually exposing those mentioned big bolts?
b) If the bolts are loosened the two turns and the holding bar removed at this point, how come the cams don't get out of whack when pulling the sprockets out with the "bang"?

Related to the pressure releasing bang it is mentioned "don't worry! You haven't broken anything unless the camshafts moved"... Well, doh...the holding tool is off... isn't the whole purpose of having and using a holding tool to prevent the cams from getting out of position?
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As far as the steps in the bentley manual, I will just attach a pdf-ed copy of the pages covering the removal and install... the steps are easy to understand up to "Remove lower toothed belt guard" on page 2.
After that they jump into "installing" , where after a pic and instructions of loosening the sprockets the next step is installing the holding tool.
While I understand the "installing" is the opposite of removal, they didn't even complete a removal step-by-step process...

So much about paying $ 100 for an "official Audi" manual that suppose to tell you how exactly to use a + $100 holding tool for removal of the TB...
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Well, anyway, aside from my unsderstanding problems and frustration with the wasted money on bentley, I want to thank you guys for sharing.

George,
thank you very much for the offer. If you can get around it in the next two days, then having the specs would be great. If not, then probably I will end up buying the damn thing anyway. As NH put it, it is better to be safe than sorry...

I appreciate all of your help, gents.
Thanks again.



editing....hm, the pdf file is too big....
I'll try something else to show the ebahn instructions...

 

I think I still have the TB instructions from Blauparts on my workbench - I'll see if they help.

 

They accept .pdf files but not bigger than 19.6 Kb....

Ok, here it goes - exact order:

 

Once you open up the car you will see this clearly, but I will try to describe it as much as possible.

Cam sprocket, or cam gear as I called it, in sense is held tight to the cam shaft with friction. End of the cam shaft is slightly tapered and once the 24mm bolt is tightened, it seats the sprockets. Anyways, between the bolt and the sprocket is a metal plate where the lockbar pins into. The plate is connected to the cam with a notch and there is only one way for the plate to go into.

So how the tensioning of the timing belt works is this. You loosen the 24 mm bolts to provide a little slack on the plates where the lockbar pins into. This provide a little bit of gap and allows you to pull the cam sprockets loose. Cams are still stationary, but the sprockets are now free to turn. Once you replace the belt, you can now tension the belt and the tension on the belt is uniform across the whole belt, because the sprockets are free to spin. If you don't loosen the sprockets, because the timing belt is toothed, only place where there is proper tension is between the bank 1 sprocket and the tensioner itself. Meaning through out the other parts of the belt, there is no tension. So once the motor starts and the tension equlizes through out, you have a chance of cams spinning out of sequence with the crank.

Hope this makes a bit of sense. Anyways once you open up the car, you will see what I am talking about.

 

Thanks man. I truly appreciate it.
Yes, it does make sense now. So basically by loosening the bolt you achieve a couple of things: a) you provide that little slack needed for the gears to come loose (the gear puller's toothed or screwing rod rests/presses on/against the bolt for leverage), and b) provides also the slack needed to slide the holding tool onto the plates.

If I were to make an analogy, I would say that the gear(sprocket) is more like a bearing that although rotates on the shaft and with the shaft together when in place or tightened, yet once loosened it rotates freely without moving the shaft anymore. Is that a fair assessment?

Anyway, from the ebahn pics to be honest I couldn't understand how exactly you loosen the gear without moving the (cam)shaft.
Indeed, probably I wouldn't risk screwing up the timing for 110 bucks.

Thanks again, HX.

P.S. NH, if you find the Blau instructions and still want to share them, I'll be grateful.

Regards.

 

Your analogy is correct. Once the sprocket is freed, it rotate freely without moving the cam.

Only thing that is irrevalant is the point about the space needed to slide the holding tool/lock bar. You actually don't need any space because there is a large hole on the lock bar where the 24mm bolt head is exposed at all times. So you can just put on the lock bar.

If you have the proper tools and patience changing timing belt is not a complicated process. I actually find it fun if you can believe it. BTW, while at it, replace the front cam seals when everything is out. Eventhough they are not leaking now, it is piece of cake to replace the seals which costs no more that $20 and 20 minutes of labor. One of the reasons that I did the timing belt job again and again was because of the seals.

 

Actually when purchasing the parts from ArizAutohaus back in December I got all the seals too, even though I knew squat about the car.
The rear seal is the most "costly", was itself like $ 11. Well, I have the following:

026 103 085D - Camshaft Oil seal 32x47x10mm (x 2)

034 115 147A - Crankshaft Oil seal Front 35x48x10mm

068 103 051G - Crankshaft Oil Seal Rear Main 85x105x12mm

078 103 181 - Crankshaft Oil Seal; Rear Main Cover gasket from Flange to Block

There's one other thing I noticed, but I had no clue if I need it or not:
Cam Plug:


Do I need 2 of these as well?

Thanks, yet again.

Regards.

 

There are 2 cam plugs at the rear of the block. Rear seals and the plugs don't require you to remove the timing belt. So unless you feel like it, or they are leaking, you don't have to deal with them now.

 

wonderful to know. I appreciate all the info, HX.
Thanks a million.

 

Well, I ordered the 3242-3243 from ZDmak along with a set of XZN, and a nice Allen long socket-bits set that includes a 17 mm for the tranny fill plug.
All this metal costs only $ 10 to ship... Total was around $ 153. I guess that should make me feel better...and poorer by the same amount...LOL

George,
as soon as I get the tools I'll post a little drawing or a sketch including the dimensions/specs for the holding bar. That way, you don't have to pull your friend's sleeve again.

Thanks again guys.