Reflecting....reflecting...

I have a question for the true experienced mechanics out there that changed the TB on their own, if they don't mind answering.

Can one get by only with the crankshaft locking pin (ex: 3242) and perform the TB change without too much hassle?
Would a mechanic with +40 yrs experience have much trouble without the camshaft locking bar (ex: 3243)?

I'd appreciate all the comments (pro and against), concerns, etc.

Thank you-s.

 

it is an diy with TB where the guy didn`t use the locking-bar , the post has piuc and details , i think he mark (scretch) everything . do some search http://audidiy.com/ , http://www.audizine.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=33 , http://www.audiworld.com/tech/
not sure where i found it...hope it helps

 

another one related
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233822

 

Thanks, Axel.

I knew about that last thread on Audizine; as a matter of fact I posted the JHMotorsports link somewhere concerning their Video and the TB kit. It wasn't previously mentioned in here.
I printed so far most TB write-ups around, but 99.9 % of them are mostly written for the procedure including the locking tools. The only one without involving the tools is the one Dan Larson wrote in 2002. However, the car is a 1999, and he took the front bumper off.
On a 1995 it appears you have plenty room to do the job without taking the bumper off. Apparently you only need to take off the lower left most front grill piece to gain access to the radiator drain. It is hard to find DIY specific info for a 1995, and EBahn isn't very helpful.
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Anyway, I haven't visited that website in more than a week, so thanks for the heads up, as it has some new info.

Good pieces of information. Considering the highlighted "OR", that tells me there's a way to change the TB just with the crankshaft locking pin. Heck, you can score a 3242 pin for $ 20 shipped, which it beats by far the $ 110 for both tools.
Probably when it comes to locking the camshafts, you may be able to get by with just marking (as in Larson's write-up). I wonder if it makes a difference having a helper that can handle the locking via some means, while the other changes the seals?

Anyway, I'll keep digging for info since it seems we don't have too many versed mechanics in here that did the replacement without the locking ... utensils.

Thanks for chimin' in, Axel. I appreciate the help.

 

The camshafts are not keyed to the camshaft gears. The trick is to get the cam gears lined up correctly on the cams after they have been removed. Off a little bit and your will run like crap. Piece of advice: change your cam tensioner gasket and valve cover gasket first to see if the oil leak goes away. If it does, you will save yourself the hassle of replacing the cam seals. If it doesn't, then you know for sure that the seals need replacing and you can then make the value decision about buying the tool or not.

But, just to replace the TB, no tool is need, just a little care.

Bob

 

Bob,

as far as I know and "see", I have no oil leaks. But since most advices on the TB job include changing the seals (as "you're in there, anyway"), I wanted to know if one can do the job without spending money on the locking tools.

If the seals don' leak, probably I won't replace'm. If they become an issue down the road, I will already know how to dismantle the front end. But hopefully that would not be the case, and I'm getting ahead of myself...

Nevertheless, your post was music to my ears.
I appreciate the input. TKS.

Regards.

 

You can get away with it by not using the crank holder tool (which i never use) but you can't get away with it by not using the cam bar. The crank a mechanic can mark the gear with white out and the block to line it up, the cams have to be absolutely perfect for the engine to run correctly. The trick i use is to install the cam bar, unbolt the cam gears, and use a gear puller to pull the gear off the cam, but just enough to where it can free wheel with the bolt still attached. This will make it easier to pull the belt around the cams and then just slip it around the crank when everything is set.

 

Chefro,

When mine blew up, I borrowed the cam lock from my foreign car wrecker, who loves Audis. Theydidn't have the crank lock pin. Before I returned it, I made a pattern for a friend in metal bending to make me a copy.

Of course he took months, and of course all he did was cut and bend, and he did not give his brother, who runs the machining side of the business, the pattern, with the pin size and location. SO, I have a bar without holes or pins. Need a water pump. Need the tool for that. Have to get the tool from my friend again.

Will copy the size and spacing of the tool to complete mine, and if you want to get a piece of steel bent to spec and make your own, I'll send you the specs.

I expected this thing to be 1/8 flat stock.,Hell, it's about 5/16, about 2 1/2 inch wide. About 2 foot long.

I wish someone with the crank lock would post the dimensions and thread. I'd make my own on the lathe.

Is Bobmartin correct that the cam wheels are not keyed to the camshafts? I find that odd. You lock the wheels East and West, but the cams themselves can go ***** nilly? Gotta see if I can get the "book" to open so I can see some of this stuff.

Cheers,

George

 

For a bit over $100 I bought the bar and pin.

My time and piece of mind along with there being other more important things to to be concerned about ( like which donut am I going to have this morning).

In any case the bar looks impressive hanging on the wall in my garage, until I can get a bigger tool box.

 

I used the lock bar everytime I pulled my timing belt off, and never had a problem with the timing. I heard many cases when people did without a lock bar that it messed up the timing. I would use one.

BTW, don't forget to loosen the cam gears off the cams itself before tensioning the timing belt as Auditech has noted. That is the key.