Bent Valves?
#1
Bent Valves? (Fixed)
Hey everyone, I have a few issues with my car, I was driving down the road and the car just died, it was only a block away so I pushed it back home. Checking the error codes I got P0301, P0302 and P0303 (Misfire detected Cylinders 1-3) I checked the timing belt and one cam (passanger side) was off timing, I corrected the timing, put everything back together but the car wont't start, it gets really close to starting but it does keep firing up. I read around in a few forums and appartently the problem is that valves got bent when the timing went off, I am planning on checking for compression tomorrow, do you know what is the PSI for a 2.8 v30? is there a special way to check for compression on 2.8 v30? Also is there something else that I should be checking for? Thank you in advance.
Last edited by Fernandus; 01-06-2010 at 11:04 PM.
#2
Sorry this doesn't make sense.. How can just one cam be off timing? Usually the belt brakes and things get all messed up. Did you replace the belt, tensioners, pullies etc when you fixed the off timing issue?
When you say close to starting -What do you mean?
I'd suspect bad coil packs but there could be something else bad..
If you have a bent valve the compression will be significantly lower in the problem cylinders so it will be apparent.
When you say close to starting -What do you mean?
I'd suspect bad coil packs but there could be something else bad..
If you have a bent valve the compression will be significantly lower in the problem cylinders so it will be apparent.
#4
Hi NH_USA, thanks for reading my thread, when I took the covers off I put the crankshaft on TDC and the cam on the driver side aligned correctly with the marks I did 6 months ago when I replaced the timing belt, but the cam on the passenger side was about 5 teeth off timing, I suspect the problem was the tensioner or something similar that was causing the belt to slip, then again I am not sure how it could have happened but it was out of timing.
When I say it almost starts I mean that I can hear that car firing up but as soon as I release the key then car stops, if I had a valve problem would the car fire up when you try to start it?
Also if I have a coil pack problem I should be able to see it by check the spark plugs for spark, right?
Edit 1: I just pulled all the spark plugs out and some of them were soaked in oil, it was in the outside of the spark plugs so I am guessing it's the valve cover gaskets letting oil leak into the spark plug holes, could this be the cause of the car not starting?, I'll clean them up and try starting the car again to see if that will make a difference, if the car does start I'll replace the gaskets.
When I say it almost starts I mean that I can hear that car firing up but as soon as I release the key then car stops, if I had a valve problem would the car fire up when you try to start it?
Also if I have a coil pack problem I should be able to see it by check the spark plugs for spark, right?
Edit 1: I just pulled all the spark plugs out and some of them were soaked in oil, it was in the outside of the spark plugs so I am guessing it's the valve cover gaskets letting oil leak into the spark plug holes, could this be the cause of the car not starting?, I'll clean them up and try starting the car again to see if that will make a difference, if the car does start I'll replace the gaskets.
Last edited by Fernandus; 01-05-2010 at 06:11 PM.
#5
I just pulled all the spark plugs out and some of them were soaked in oil, it was in the outside of the spark plugs so I am guessing it's the valve cover gaskets letting oil leak into the spark plug holes, could this be the cause of the car not starting?, I'll clean them up and try starting the car again to see if that will make a difference, if the car does start I'll replace the gaskets.
#6
Hi Chefro, yes the ignition switch does come back to the on position and I found soaked plugs on both banks, you could even hear a sound when unplugging the spark plugs there was so much oil there, do you think that could have prevented the car from starting?
#7
Well, engine oil is not electricity conducive, so it would prevent the plugs from firing correctly.
The problem is though if indeed your valve cover gaskets are leaking (as I said, you should be able to easily tell by visual inspection around them and alongside/down the heads) or you actually get oil pushed up from inside.
Why am I saying this? I may be way out of line regarding a 30V, but on the 2.8 12V engine the plug holes sit actually higher than any place where potential oil pooled from a leaking valve cover gasket could get inside the plug holes. That would mean you lose oil drastically on a regular basis on both sides...a pretty remote chance, as you'd have caught a such dramatic oil loss.
Moreover, I haven't heard any A6 owners in this forum to have had both v.c. gaskets leaking at the same time.
I'm pretty sure the 30V engine guys would chime in with better direction for ya.
In any event, "wet" plugs are not good for starting...
The problem is though if indeed your valve cover gaskets are leaking (as I said, you should be able to easily tell by visual inspection around them and alongside/down the heads) or you actually get oil pushed up from inside.
Why am I saying this? I may be way out of line regarding a 30V, but on the 2.8 12V engine the plug holes sit actually higher than any place where potential oil pooled from a leaking valve cover gasket could get inside the plug holes. That would mean you lose oil drastically on a regular basis on both sides...a pretty remote chance, as you'd have caught a such dramatic oil loss.
Moreover, I haven't heard any A6 owners in this forum to have had both v.c. gaskets leaking at the same time.
I'm pretty sure the 30V engine guys would chime in with better direction for ya.
In any event, "wet" plugs are not good for starting...
Last edited by chefro; 01-05-2010 at 07:25 PM.
#8
So I cleaned the spark plugs and the spark plug and the spark plug plugs, checked for spark on all 6 spark plugs and they were ok then I tried starting the engine and after a while it did start with me giving it gas, it run really rough and I had to keep giving it gas so it was going to keep on running but I let it run for like 20 seconds and then let go. I re run the scan and I got P1602 (power supply terminal too low) P1426 (Evap Purge Valve N80 opened) P300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected) and P301, P302, P303 (Cylinder 1,2,3 misfire). Does this mean my valves are all right? Would the car even start if the valves were bent? Also could it be that the timing is slightly off and that is why the car runs rough or do you think it maybe those old spark plugs? I would really appreciate any thoughts you guys may have about this. Thank you.
#9
If your concerned about the valves buy a compression tester and disconnect the coils and injectors and test 1,2,and 3 let it crank over about 4 times each you should have somewhere in the neighborhood of 180 or better. If you have a bent valve it will be wicked low.
Check your battery and alternator. Make sure you are fully charged and the terminals are clean and tight. Check the ground.
Make sure you are getting fuel to those cylinders and inspect all of the harnesses for burns.
Check Your spark.
Let us know which of the 3 you do not have spark, fuel or compression.
Check your battery and alternator. Make sure you are fully charged and the terminals are clean and tight. Check the ground.
Make sure you are getting fuel to those cylinders and inspect all of the harnesses for burns.
Check Your spark.
Let us know which of the 3 you do not have spark, fuel or compression.
#10
It really sounds like your timing on the passenger bank is still off. But no, you won't be able to start it with bent valves.
However, you should first check your battery, as it may not have enough juice left in it:
The evap purge valve code:
However, you should first check your battery, as it may not have enough juice left in it:
18010/P1602/005634 - Power Supply B+ Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
Possible Causes
Cables on the Battery were removed
Battery weak (voltage)
Generator Disfunction
Possible Solutions
Check Battery Cables
Check/Replace Battery
Check/Replace Generator
Special Notes
If multiple Control Module have Power Supply Faults stored, it's most likely to be one common Problem like the ones shown above. Otherwise when only one or two Control Modules have such Codes stored you better start searching at the individual Power Supply of these Modules.
Possible Causes
Cables on the Battery were removed
Battery weak (voltage)
Generator Disfunction
Possible Solutions
Check Battery Cables
Check/Replace Battery
Check/Replace Generator
Special Notes
If multiple Control Module have Power Supply Faults stored, it's most likely to be one common Problem like the ones shown above. Otherwise when only one or two Control Modules have such Codes stored you better start searching at the individual Power Supply of these Modules.
17834/P1426/005158 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Ligh (MIL) active
Possible Causes
EVAP Purge Valve (N80) faulty
Wiring/Connectors from/to EVAP Purge Valve (N80) faulty
Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
Check Wiring/Connectors from/to EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17)
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Ligh (MIL) active
Possible Causes
EVAP Purge Valve (N80) faulty
Wiring/Connectors from/to EVAP Purge Valve (N80) faulty
Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
Check Wiring/Connectors from/to EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17)