turbo problem?
#11
RE: turbo problem?
I would also say that it is likely a hose leak. I had a hose start leaking when we were taking my car home (got it fixed free), and it felt really slow. After that, even with only 170hp, I could feel the acceleration again.
#12
RE: turbo problem?
so even looking further changing the turbo. I guess change the hose and the Oxygen Sensor would be a good start. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK? By the way is it true the turbo goes away for Audi especially a4 or it need replacement after 60K, anybody still have their old one which hasn't been replaced yet.
#16
RE: turbo problem?
Does your car only do this when it's cold? I think I have the same problem ('00 97k). I'm also getting the code 1136. It just started today. Feels like it's choked of air and therefor acceleration when it's cold. I think it first happens when you don't drive it. I don't think this has anything to do with the turbo. FYI ... mine has 97k and running strong ... until today [sm=boohoo.gif].
I'm getting some other codes (Chilton's interpretation included) ...
1509 - Idle air control circuit malfunction
0113 - Intake air temperature circuit, high input
0118 - Engine coolant temperature circuit, high input
1298 - Not in Chilton's << HELP Please!
Sounds to me like some sort of electrical sensor problem. Is this all consistent with the Oxygen Sensor everyone's suggesting?
I'm getting some other codes (Chilton's interpretation included) ...
1509 - Idle air control circuit malfunction
0113 - Intake air temperature circuit, high input
0118 - Engine coolant temperature circuit, high input
1298 - Not in Chilton's << HELP Please!
Sounds to me like some sort of electrical sensor problem. Is this all consistent with the Oxygen Sensor everyone's suggesting?
#17
RE: turbo problem?
Hey I just searched the forums for "oxygen sensor" and ran across this ... it sure sounds like what my car is doing. What's REALLY interesting is that I too just changed my timing belt and water pump. Look at what 51Timber says about silicone. I used a silicone sealant between the pump housing and the engine block and was wondering at the time what I was going to f-up when a little smeared inside my engine. Now I think I might now. See below ...
"... Normal aging process will eventually cause the oxygen sensor to fail. However, the sensor may also fail prematurely if it becomes contaminated with lead from leaded gasoline, phosphorus from excessive oil consumption or silicone from internal coolant leaks or using silicone sprays or gasket sealers on the engine. Environmental factors such as road splash, salt, oil and dirt can also cause a sensor to fail, as can mechanical stress or mishandling.
A dead sensor will prevent the onboard computer from making the necessary air/fuel corrections, causing the air/fuel mixture to run rich in the "open loop" mode of operation, resulting in much higher fuel consumption and emissions.
An additional consequence of any oxygen sensor failure may be damage to the catalytic converter. A rich operating condition causes the converter to run hotter than normal. If the converter gets hot enough, the catalyst substrate inside may actually melt forming a partial or complete blockage. The result can be a drastic drop in highway performance or stalling because of a buildup of backpressure in the exhaust system.
It sounds to me like this is your culprite!
51Timber"
"... Normal aging process will eventually cause the oxygen sensor to fail. However, the sensor may also fail prematurely if it becomes contaminated with lead from leaded gasoline, phosphorus from excessive oil consumption or silicone from internal coolant leaks or using silicone sprays or gasket sealers on the engine. Environmental factors such as road splash, salt, oil and dirt can also cause a sensor to fail, as can mechanical stress or mishandling.
A dead sensor will prevent the onboard computer from making the necessary air/fuel corrections, causing the air/fuel mixture to run rich in the "open loop" mode of operation, resulting in much higher fuel consumption and emissions.
An additional consequence of any oxygen sensor failure may be damage to the catalytic converter. A rich operating condition causes the converter to run hotter than normal. If the converter gets hot enough, the catalyst substrate inside may actually melt forming a partial or complete blockage. The result can be a drastic drop in highway performance or stalling because of a buildup of backpressure in the exhaust system.
It sounds to me like this is your culprite!
51Timber"
#18
RE: turbo problem?
so i guess I should go and change my oxygen sensor, i might as well do my tune up too.............Speaking of cold my oil temp is always between 150-250 degree F (250 been the mid pt). And, I drive 100 miles a day no change at all. Is this normal? ANY SUGGESTION PLEASE. I know I am dragging this but i need help. I don't want to spend 2K for changing my turbo if its OK.