OOPS, sorry if i missed this thread SLVR99A4. The problem is most likely your brake light switch, the brake signal is sent to the TCM to let it know that your slowing down, in TIP mode its not used. If the signal isn't "stepped" correctly it will throw the TCM into a kind of limp mode but you can still access all the gears.
To test the brake light switch use the VAG COM and go to data block 2. (i think) I have only done this on a VAS tool but it should be the same. You should see two zeros right on top of each other. When you press the brake pedal they should both go to 1. Now, these have to engage in order to work. Once you find the data block SLOWLY depress the pedal, one should activate before the other, the top one should change to 1 and then the second one should change to 1.
If they change at the same time or if the bottom one activates first you need a new brake light switch.
Now, when installing a new brake light switch you CAN BREAK THEM EASILLY, so you have to be very dame carefull when you put the switch in. Look at the switch and see which side is square and which side is round, press it into the hole firmly, and twist it into place. If it doesn't want to turn DONT FORCE IT. If the brake lights don't come on or stay on, take out the switch and pull out the pin and try again until it works. Another tip when installing the switch is to try and not touch the brake pedal, pulling it towards you will break the switch.

 

Bump, in case you missed it.

 

Thanks for your assistance auditech79, I will definitely try this. Is there any other measuring blocks applicable to the TCM to verify it's functioning correctly, any other procedures I could run?

 

Well your checking the brake light switch in the brake electronics, not the gearbox.
As for the TCM you can check stuff like what the TCC is doing in the torque converter, pressures in main lines, shift solinoids ect. None of that means anything without the specs though. I definately would drive around and watch the TCC to see that it changes from "open to closed" or"on or off" while driving, just to make sure its working correctly.

 

Does anyone know if there are any vaccum lines that run into the transmission that if faulty or broken could influence the operation? Vagged TCM for read out specs; all TCM related information seems to be processed fine and accurately (solenoids and torque converter operable).Although I did not replace the brake light switch, I checked that is working properly other than the typical DTC of the implausible signal that I receive everytime I VAG the autotrans. The following quote I received from a mechanic relating to transmission/ shifting problems.

"Finally; suspect the sensor is bad.
As for the code 83, it means there is a problem with the Transmission QDM torque converter circuit. A blown brake light fuse can cause this. Remove the panel just under the steering coloum, and you can access the switchs that are worked off the brake pedal. The circuit that goes to the transmission will have power on it with the ignition switch on, and when you push the brake pedal, the power should go away. The brake light switch works your brake lights on one side, and power for the torque converter lock-up switch on the other side. It may be bad, or out of adjustment. The other thing it can be is; the TCC switch in the front of the transmission is bad. One must first establish it in fact has power when the brake pedal is pushed, and that it has ground in order for the switch to work the torque converter lock-up. Look also for a vacuum leak causing every bit of the problems. Look, and listen for any hissing around under the dash, the engine compartment, or around the transmission. You will notice there are vacuum hoses that go from the engine down to the transmission, so check all of these too. If your engine has been idling faster than normal, then this is a sure sign of a vacuum leak somewhere. You can remove the TCC switch, and check it with a battery voltage & ground to make sure it clicks, if not, replace it.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!"

I do have an excessive idle surge that happens after warm-up. None of these problems with the transmission happen when it is cold; shifting and all are great. After warm-up I notice the decrease in response between the engine and transmission. Possibly vaccuum lines are cold and hard which do not allow a signifcant leak until after they get warm and flex? I am so tired of trouble shooting this damn car!

 

Vaccum linesdon't directly run to the transmission. A standard vaccum leak will throw a code in the ECM for running lean. The vaccum pump not working can cause this problem (only on automatic models) which is next to the powersteering pump. If thats not working it usually throws a code and the cruise control won't work most of the time. So you should check if your cruise control works.
I still think its your brake light switch, they are known crap, even worse then Bremi ignition coils.

 

I've had almost the exact same problems with my Tiptronic transmission. I'm going to try the brake light switch this weekend. My car also runs through the gears quickly and you really have to push it hard to get it to downshift in "D". It also slips around 4000 RPM between 4th and 5th gears. I generally drive it in sport mode. It shifts great, but is bad on the gas milage. One other problem I've had with the transmission is that in sport mode, it won't go into 5th gear so I have to shift into "D" when I hit the interstate for cruising. I called Level10 and IPT and they both agreed that it is a mechanical issue with my tranny (most likely leaking torque converter and sticky valve body). The tranny has been flaky since I bought the car, but has gotten much worse since I installed a PES supercharger. I'll be doing a Level10 upgrade in about a month since the stock transmission isn't meant to handle the 325 HP the supercharger puts out anyway. I've tried resetting the transmission with the VAG program with marginal results. I've also had the transmission fluid and filter changed too. I'll be following this thread until you hopefully get some sort of resolution. I'll be sure to post if I have any success with the brake light swith.

2003 A4 3.0 Tiptronic

 

Thanks for the reply Auditech. I replaced my new brake light switch last night. What is the function of the identical black switch that is under the white brake light switch with the vaccum line running into it? After the install, I did a TCM reflash and took if for a spin while monitoring the 007 data blocks for the transmission to observe the status of the torque converter since this IS the problem I am experiencing. Car performed and shifted perfect for the first mile or two, observing that the torque converter stayed open at a higher rpm, delaying the shift points to higher more suitable desire. After a while if defaulted back to normal, shifting through the gears quickly and noticing the torque converter status go from open to regulating to close fairly quickly. Only if I hammered the gas would shift points stay higher and torque converter would stay open longer. Damn, I thought I almost had this car fixed! I'm not sure what else I can do. It's a shame because like I said earlier it definitely does not seem mechanical because at times the tranny operates flaulessly; something influences it's behavior. Cold mornings right after start up for the first mile or two, again the tranny operates awesome, everything is in sync no slippage and shifts points are high. The slippage or what I thought was slippage is actually the torque converter (after monitoring its status via vagcom) very lazily switching from open - toregulating - to close.How about adaptation? Is there any way I could change this? I may also add that my cruise control is still inoperable. [&o]

How can I inspect and monitor if my vaccum pump is working properly? I have no other codes besides the 00526 for the brake light switch (even after I replaced it I still get the code).....I'm stumped.

 

Bumped.