So after i had my car serviced last week, I was informed that my engine was going to need a rebuild. Its got about 120 on the odometer but i dont know if this is common to be so early. I asked why a full motor rebuild and they said that to just rebuild the head that the snugness of the head and the rest of the engine may cause problems... sounds reasonable i guess. Now since i hate my KO4, could i opt to have a gtrs turbo installed? I presume i would need about 1 grand to for the new turbo and such if i sell my ko4 kit. But can the FWD a4 handle such numbers from a bigger turbo? I think the biggest thing im looking for is to not have any turbo spool till 3-4 rpms. Any advice?

 

So what is wrong with the head again, i didnt see an exact problem? Having fwd isnt a problem, look at the gti/jetta guys, the only problem someone would have is having a auto. You will have to upgrade your clutch if you havent. The gtrs will start to spool mid to late 3k range so if your looking for faster spool, this isnt your turbo. The real 28rs would spool just after 3k and make far more power but you would have to get a entirely new setup. So if you want faster spool your looking at a gt2x instead.

 

Well I post earlier about a clicking sound that was coming fromt the engine. The diagnosis was that the engine just had wear and tear from time/age and that a head rebuild is in the future. As a result the new head wouldnt fit with the un build motor so a motor rebuild would be ideal to avoid leaks etc. or so they say. I absolutely dont want fast spool!! My ko4 spools so fast i just wanna tell it to stop. I dont have auto, so I could do a gtrs turbo, fueling kit, decent spooling and good power. I have the AWE stage 2 clutch kit that i just installed maybe 3k miles ago. I presume that would hold well. But would that setup be somewhat reliable? My ko4 sucks, i always have problems but i havent heard any great talk about the MIKA tuning or w/e that is common with the bigger turbo setup.

 

Go here www.eurospecsport.com and see maybe if you would want to buy a short block, long block / Stroker. Im sure that would float in your mind somewhere.

Let me know what you do!

Adam~

 

They are using the wrong head or did something wrong is it wont fit the motor.... thats BS. If you want a gtrs, go to renn-art and you can get it with revo or unitronics tuning instead of the MIKA crap. Your clutch should be fine pushing a gtrs so no worries there.

So call them out on the head crap and do a compression test on the engine and if all 4 cyl's are between 180-200 you are fine and no reason to rebuild. If you have one or more in the 150 range, you should have it rebuilt or sell the car.

 

Funniest thread of the day right here!
Find a new mechanic or learn how to DIY ASAP.

 

Is this tatooed on you forehead?

 

Ahh see, sucker maybe if i let them do what they suggest i do. But i didnt, i came here first ; ) and lol a reason why i posted this as Thinking Ahead.

 

question that i have about pistons and new engine blocks. Well wat exactly is the benefits of a long block and a short block. and i no that lower compression pistons are the right setup for turbo cars but what exactly is a good compression rate for ko3 vs like gt35.... would they both work well at the same compression. if so what is this compression 9:1 or ...

 

The higher the c/r the faster the off boost power and faster the spool. The general rule is to lower c/r when a N/A car goes turbo so it can run more psi and the same kinda holds true here. But lowering the c/r isnt needed with a strong or built motor. VW/Audi already use 9:1 and 9.5:1 c/r pending on model year and i personally think you should leave it in that general area. People have dropped it down to 8.5:1 and some have even raised it to 10:1 but then you need to be careful of not blowing up the motor with increased c/r . So its safe to run a 35r on stock c/r and a little safer to run it at 8.5:1 or 9:1 but is it worth the slower spool and loss of power, thats up to you to deside.