Newbie's Guide For The Audi A4, By chaos92287
#1
11-19-2006, 04:10 AM
Newbie's Guide For The Audi A4, By chaos92287
I thought I would create a newbie's guide to try and prevent questions from being asked over and over again.
First off, when you have a question you should search. We have no problems answering all your questions, provided that you searched for them first. Some questions have been asked so many times it's not even funny. It gets very annoying to the regular guys around here and that’s why we flame them for it. If you have a question that hasn't been answered, or you need further clarification, then absolutely post a new thread and we will help you out to the best of our ability. However, you should not be starting new threads for questions already answered a million times. Why? Because it's just plain annoying, and because it clutters up the forum and makes it harder for people to search when their search results contain hundreds of threads composed of just stupid questions and people flaming them for asking. To help you newbie's out, I made this list of commonly asked questions.
What mod should I do first?
Okay, so you just got your A4 and you want to start modding it. Which mods should you buy first? The absolute first thing you should do is a chip. By far it offers the most bang for the buck. Expect to pay around $500 for a good one + labor and tax. With this $500 you will be getting roughly 40-50 hp and 60-80 ft/lbs of tq. When you get a chip you will also have to upgrade the DV (diverter valve). The stock ones in the car are will not be able to handle the added boost the chip provides. A Bosch 710N DV or Forge/Baileys type DV needs to be used to support the higher boost a chip gives you. Next mods, you can get are intake (although the stock airbox is very efficient, and anything aftermarket is mainly for the cool sound), test pipe, exhaust, and you should be set. You can do other mods that don’t add power like snub mount, short shifter, and suspension. What you do after that is entirely up to how far you want to take the car and how deep your pockets are. If you want to know what brands are available, keep reading.
What chip should I get?
This is probably one of the most commonly asked and flamed questions on AF. GIAC, APR, and REVO are each going to give you very similar hp/tq gains, so to say one company is better than the other is pointless. Each company usually has dyno results posted on their website, but you have no way of knowing what conditions the dyno was taken under and each company usually overestimates its gains for marketing purposes. So what are the differences between them? The only difference between the companies is where that added power is applied in the RPM range. GIAC tends to give the power more in the low RPM’s whereas APR, and REVO tend to have more power in the higher RPM. As a general rule, if you have a B5 go with GIAC, if you have a B6 go with REVO, and if you have a B7 go with either APR or REVO. Why I say this is because this is the general consensus of the people on AF. People who have a B5 say that GIAC is the most fun to drive and it feels like the power is more available when you stomp down on the gas. People who have B6’s and B7’s usually say the same thing for REVO or APR. But power alone should not be the deciding factor in your decision. You also have to look at where each dealer is located and what their service is like. A good chip is useless without after sales support. You might want to upgrade the chip in the future to a more aggressive file so if a certain company offers discounts when upgrading you would want to pick that one. GIAC is one company in particular that will give you a discount on the proper software needed if you upgrade from your k03 turbo to a k04 turbo.
There are other chips out there, but they usually are crap. Most people who buy Neuspeed chips say they are weak, even though Neuspeed claims really high gains for less money than it's competitors. Here’s a link http://www.carbuffsweb.com/shop.asp?...temSubTypeID=1 but personally I wouldn’t get one. Your ECU is not where you want to be skimping money on. Also, chips off of ebay are usually scams if it isn't an actual ecu that is being sold with an afermarket chip flashed or soldered into it. You can't get a REAL and quality chip for your Audi for less than $500 typically. Try to find a used chipped ecu in our classifieds section if the price is too steep for you.
What intake should I get?
The best intake you can probably get is Carbonio. However, this intake costs $389. That’s a a lot of money just for an intake. Personally, I would suggest an Evo intake over a Carbonio one. Costs quite a bit less but still does the job just as good. A lot of people suggest doing the air box mod. It’s cheap and does everything a new intake does but there is a little risk involved. Water may get in ingested and cause miss fires or even hydrolock. Most of the guys who have done it have never had any problem with it and highly recomend it. More info on it can be found here: https://www.audiforums.com/m_260779/tm.htm Also an intake DOES NOT add 15-20 hp as advertised by many companies. You might get a couple extra hp from a carbonio, evo intake, and even the stock air box mod, but don’t count on it. The only reason to get an intake is to make the turbo and DV more audiable.
Which exhaust/test pipe should I get?
Which exhaust you should get depends on what kind of sound you want. Neuspeed and some custom setups are and can definitely be the loudest. You must be careful when going custom to not end up with a ricerish sound. Milltek gives the “classiest” or most "sophisticated and refined" sounding exhaust.. It is the most expensive exhaust but has a very nice deep tone to it. Borla is my personal choice. It’s cheaper than Milltek but still provides that nice deep tone. 2.25”- 2.5” exhaust is what you want to get. Unless you go BT, then you will want a 3” exhaust. A higher flowing exhaust should add as much as 10-15hp. If you want your car even louder and you want even more power you should also get a test pipe. The stock cat is one of the most restrictive parts on the car. This part WILL add a lot of power. At 2100 RPM it adds 20 hp and 50 ft/lbs of tq. Here’s a dyno chart for it: http://www.ecodetuning.com/gallery/i...s/b7a4testpipe
Not everyone can install a test pipe though. It gets rid of the cat and therefore you will not be able to pass emissions with it. If you live in a state without emissions you are fine, but if you have emissions you can’t. Your best bet would be to then get a high flow cat. I have an ecode test pipe in my car and it sounds great with the Borla exhaust. Getting a custom exhaust is usually the best way to go with 2.8/3.0's because of the limited aftermarket. It’ll probably run you cheaper than buying an exhaust from a company and still works great. Here are some sound clips of different exhaust’s on A4’s:
Magnaflow
(Credit to EuropeanAudi)
If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...d/driving2.swf In Car Sound
If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ing_test3a.swf Car Launch
If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ing_test2a.swf Drive By Sound
If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...dia4_incar.mp3 In Car Sound
If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ia4_launch.mp3 Car Launch
If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...a4_driveby.mp3 Drive By Sound
If you have a B6 A4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRHjy...elated&search=
Sound Clip for Milltek Exhaust (Inside Cabin)
http://www.stratmosphere.com/a4tqm_g...g_56_24000.wav
Sound Clip for Borla Exhaust, standstill rev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxbcpl5j-MQ
Sound Clip for Borla Exhaust., standstill revs 2
http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/multimedia/revs2.mov
Sound clip for Borla Exhaust, driving away
http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/mult.../driveaway.mov
Sound clip for Borla Exhaust, for a B6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF0XSV93jTU
Sound clip for Neuspeed Exhaust + ecode test pipe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8RbNRUTrB8
Sound Clip for AME exhaust vs. stock exhaust for a B7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwvFIDm4GOU
Sound clip for AME exhaust
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2JgT...elated&search=
Sound Clip for APR exhaust vs. stock exhaust for a B7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=io53j...elated&search=
What kind of BOV should I get?
If you ask this question in the forum you will definitely get flamed. A BOV should not be used on an Audi. The Audi turbo system is a closed loop system by which all unused boost that is spooled during off throttle and gear shifts must be re-routed within the system; it cannot be vented to the atmosphere due to the dependence on the MAF and ECU to properly read and interpret air flow dynamics within the intake tract. Therefore BOV's (Blow-Off Valves) are not used because they create a rich air/fuel condition (i.e. less air to fuel ratio) which will damage the catalytic converter, create soot on the exhaust pipes, and cause occasional misfiring (due to the purged air) which will result in ECU miscalculated timing adjustments and other errors.
For Audi closed loop turbo systems, a BPV (By-Pass Valve) or DV (Diverter Valve) is needed to recirculate the purged air and keep it within the intake tract.
(credit ImolaS4)
What DV should I get?
Now this is right question you should asking instead of "which BOV to get?". As for which one you should get is entirely up to you. First option is the 710N. This DV comes stock on Audi TT (225hp version) to compensate for the added boost from the k04. It is the cheapest one you can buy (typicaly found for $35-$40) and will work fine if all you plan to do to the car is chip and few other mods. The next option is a Forge series DV. Forge 006 and Forge 007 (virtually the same thing but the 007 has a smaller external design for optimal fitment on an S4 application). They are fully serviceable and adjustable. If you are upping the boost all you need to do is switch out the spring. This (007) is probably the most widely available and recommended DV to get. It is ideal if you’re going to be upgrading the turbo. There are other DV’s out there like Bailey’s, EVOMS, Hyperboost, etc. They each work just as well as the Forge series, so whichever you can get for cheapest is the one you should get. A new DV will not add any power but it will make the “psshh” sound more audible, and especially with an intake or air box mod.
Which Turbo should I get?
This all depends on how much power you want vs. reliability, and how deep your pockets are. The most reliable and easiest one to swap to is a k04-015. You don’t have to swap anything else out. It’s a direct bolt on replacement. But you’re probably going to max out a little under 300hp. The other popular choices are GT28RS, GT2871r, and GT3071r. With a gt28rs you will get more power but you will have to swap a bunch of stuff out as well. It maxes out around 350-375 hp I believe. A gt2871r is going to provide similar results to the gt28rs. The only difference is the gt28rs will spool faster. If you want even more power go with a GT3071R. It maxes out at about mid 400 hp range, I believe. Again you will have to change other stuff as well. If you want detailed info on these three turbos, then check out this link: http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release050304.htm
There are others as well, but these are the popular choices.
How reliable are Audi’s?
Audi’s, contrary to popular belief, are reliable cars. They just need a little more attention than other cars do. A car is only going to be as reliable as you are. If you change the oil every 5k miles with synthetic oil, put in 91 or higher octane gas, and do all the other required maintenance at its recommended intervals than the car will be very reliable. The engine’s are a marvel of German technology and are capable of exceeding 200k+ miles on them no problem. The 2.8 tends to be more reliable than the 1.8T because its not forced induction. Depending on which generation A4 (B5, B6, B7, etc.) they each have their own notorious flaws just like a lot of other cars. Do keep in mind though, as far as reliabilty, Audi just can't compete with a Honda or Toyota. The style and uniqueness of Audi is legendary, and makes ownership and the satisfaction of driving in general top notch compared to any other car maker. This tends to make up for any of Audis shortcomings as far as less than top notch reliability goes.
Should I get an Audi?
It depends on your financial situation. If you are a poor teenager, then this most likely isn’t the car for you. You should have at least an extra grand after purchasing the car for repairs/maintenance. Audi’s are not cheap cars to own and maintain. The parts for the car really aren’t that expensive, although there are some exceptions. The real killer is the labor. The car cannot be serviced/repaired everywhere and the places that can do it charge you up the wazoo for labor. Working on an Audi really isn’t that much different from working on other cars though. So if you are mechanically inclined and can DIY for most things, then that will cut down on the cost of owning one significantly.
Which A4 should I get?
Depending on what year/generation you are interested in, there are several differences to take into consideration when it comes to performance, reliability and availability for future modifications. Quattro is a what Audi is most well known for when it comes to "options," and is most desireable over FWD . Try driving a FWD compared to a Quattro and you will know what I mean. They are completely different cars. It doesn’t matter if you live in a place where it doesn’t snow or other stuff like that. Quattro in my mind is a must when getting an Audi. Now which engine should you get? It depends on if you’re looking to mod the car, or if you want more reliability. The 1.8T has loads of mods and the more fun to drive in my opinion. The 2.8 is more reliable than the 1.8T but has practically no mods. It starts with 40 more hp than the 1.8T in stock form, but is also slightly heavier. The only way to get serious power out of the 2.8 is with a supercharger. But they cost 4-5 grand for a complete setup. Lots of info can be found out about supercharging the 2.8 at www.scaudi.com Also more info can be found about this subject here: https://www.audiforums.com/m_355352/tm.htm
There is also a supercharger kit available for the 3.0 B6 model.
The newer generation A4's come with a 2.0T base engine and an optional 3.2 V6- both with optional multitronic, tiptronic, and 6 speed manual transmissions.
Auto vs. Manual
In a race a manual will beat an auto any day of the week. It can launch properly and shift faster (most of the time). The manual transmission will be able to handle any amount of power you’re going to be putting into the car. The tiptronic tranny will not be able to support anything above about 300 ft. lbs of torque. If your dead set on more power and have an auto tranny, then you can get a level 10 upgrade. http://www.levelten.com/ is where you can find info about that. You can cut down on the shift time of the tiptronic with a tip chip. GIAC is the only choice for this. Also the automatic tranny will lose some power through the torque converter. An auto tranny can however shift a lot better than a human can in most cases, especially when you add a tip chip.
(credit TheJazz7)
The A4 2.8/3.0
So you got an A4 without doing much research first and picked a 2.8/3.0 without knowing it had practically no mods for it, or maybe you just wanted the extra reliability but still want to mod it. So what parts are there for it? As for exhaust, there is Neuspeed, Decorsa, Thermal, Milltek, and Supersprint. For the 2.8 only Milltek offers a full cat-back exhaust. The rest of those are for the 3.0. For chips, there is Neuspeed, GIAC, and Wetterauer. For intake there is Stratmosphere. For under drive pulley you have Unorthodox Racing. The last mod you can do to it is a supercharger. Pretty much the only major power mod for the 2.8. It’ll cost you around 4-5 grand, and you will be getting around 300 hp. www.scaudi.com has lots of info on superchargers and has group buys so you can get one for cheaper. No company makes a turbocharger for the 2.8 but some guys have made one-off setups so it’s possible. Exhaust, intake, and a chip will get you about 12-18 hp. For a lot more detailed info on the 2.8 check out this link: https://www.audiforums.com/m_177186/tm.htm
(credit Grouse)
Ebay
eBay, this wonderful online auction where you can normally get stuff for dirt cheap, is NOT the place you want to be buying stuff for your Audi. There are some exceptions though. The eBay short shifter is one of these. They are a lot cheaper than the ones you find from tuning companies and yet still work just as good. The eBay intercooler- most people used to think they were all crap and did no good whatsoever. This however is not true. Most of the ones found on eBay now are actually pretty good. The only problem is they are larger than say a greddy, APR, or DUH intercooler. And there is not much space to stick an intercooler behind the A4’s front bumper, so more cutting may be required. The appeal to this intercooler is that it is substantially cheaper than a greddy, APR, etc. would run you. One from eBay would run you about $100 for the core and then you can get piping custom made for it at a local shop. It will end up running you roughly $100-$200 if you can install it yourself, whereas the Greddy one will run you about $1000. Just make sure the intercooler is a bar and plate design. Definitely stay away from all headlights, chips, and stuff that looks cheaply made. The headlights are poorly made, fog up all the time, and quite often have leaks that allow water to get inside the housing.
What year is my car/What are the differences between the generations?
If you want to know whether you have a 99 or a 99.5, or if you just want to know the differences of the exterior of the A4 over the years, then you should check out this link: http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/a4/diff/ Engine wise the 97-99.5 are nDBW and 2000+ are DBW. If you’re planning on extensively modding your car, nDBW is the way to go. If you’re just getting a chip and a few other mods, then it doesn't really matter. 99.5 is considered to be the best year because it is still nDBW but it has all the upgrades the 2000+ had, like one-piece headlights, improved timing belt tensioner, and other stuff. In 2001, the stock hp rose from 150 hp to 170 hp. This was done through variable valve timing, different compression (from 9.5:1 to 9.3:1) and different programming along with a k03 sport that increased the boost by .3 bar (from .5 to .8). Also throughout the years the 1.8T engines have had different codes. 97-99.5 are AEB, 2000 are ATW, and 2001 are AWM. AEB engines are the best to work on and mod and have more aftermarket. For 2.8 B5, there were two different versions of the 2.8L V6 available. A 12v from 96-97, and the 30v was introduced in 98. The 12v motor is the least desireable, though it is very reliable at 170hp. The 30v is also very reliable and comes with a 190hp motor that (as stated numerous times) can be supercharged.
Recommended Service Intervals
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/audi/
Last time i checked it had everything you needed for 97-04. Very detailed. Only thing is you gotta have is a .pdf reader to see them. If you don't have adobe reader, then download Foxit Reader, its free, small in size, and better than adobe IMO.
Stereo Info
All of this information is for the Bose system. I can't say for certain it is the same for the non Bose system, but i think the speaker sizes are the same. The front doors and rear dears both have 5 1/4" speakers, and the rear deck has 6 1/2" speakers. A lot of people don't believe these are the speaker sizes because they can't get the same size speakers to fit. This is because the Bose speakers have custom mounts. If you are going to be installing an aftermarket speaker, you will have to get an adapter. The factory bose amp is on the driver's side trunk under the parcel shelf.
Common Problems
Common problems on A4's are timing belt, control arms, tie rod ends, oil sludge, and sunroof.. The timing belt tenioners in 97-99 models were a bad design. If you have a pre-2000, its better to do it sooner (60-70k miles) if it's never been done because of the crappy tensioner. Post-2000- If the timing belt snaps you are pretty much f*cked. It will most likely push the pistons up and bend the valves and other nasty stuff due to being an interference engine type, unless you are lucky and didn't get internal damage. The former will require an engine rebuild. While having your timing belt changed, you also might as well change the water pump and a other belts. The best way is to buy a kit from renn-art, pure motorsports, or ecs tuning (our sponsors found in the Audi links.) If you do it yourself it will run you roughly $300, or, you can get a local tuner to do it. A good price is around $600- $700, and if you take it to the stealership, it typcialy runs between $1,000 and $1,500!! Oil sludge is more of a problem for the 1.8T than the 2.8. Just make sure to use fully synthetic oil, and use the larger OEM updated oil filter (for the 1.8t.) Change it every 3-5k miles and you won't ever have to worry about this. For B5 models, the bushings and overall design are just no durable enough to go longer than 80k miles (sometimes less.) For the tie rods- it's just a bad design by Audi that tends to fail within 80k miles (for B5's) The sunroof can be troublesome in most A4's. It is usually one of two things. You either need to clean the contacts (DIY-http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html) or you need a new relay switch.
By: chaos92287, with special help from the above^ referenced members and onepoint8tee
Some of the above information is B5-biased. This is due to the fact that the B5 model has been around the longest, and there is more knowledge about reliablility, modifications, etc. pertaining to it. It tends to be the most commonly owned model in the community. This guide will continually be updated as new information is available and is in demand for all models.
First off, when you have a question you should search. We have no problems answering all your questions, provided that you searched for them first. Some questions have been asked so many times it's not even funny. It gets very annoying to the regular guys around here and that’s why we flame them for it. If you have a question that hasn't been answered, or you need further clarification, then absolutely post a new thread and we will help you out to the best of our ability. However, you should not be starting new threads for questions already answered a million times. Why? Because it's just plain annoying, and because it clutters up the forum and makes it harder for people to search when their search results contain hundreds of threads composed of just stupid questions and people flaming them for asking. To help you newbie's out, I made this list of commonly asked questions.
What mod should I do first?
Okay, so you just got your A4 and you want to start modding it. Which mods should you buy first? The absolute first thing you should do is a chip. By far it offers the most bang for the buck. Expect to pay around $500 for a good one + labor and tax. With this $500 you will be getting roughly 40-50 hp and 60-80 ft/lbs of tq. When you get a chip you will also have to upgrade the DV (diverter valve). The stock ones in the car are will not be able to handle the added boost the chip provides. A Bosch 710N DV or Forge/Baileys type DV needs to be used to support the higher boost a chip gives you. Next mods, you can get are intake (although the stock airbox is very efficient, and anything aftermarket is mainly for the cool sound), test pipe, exhaust, and you should be set. You can do other mods that don’t add power like snub mount, short shifter, and suspension. What you do after that is entirely up to how far you want to take the car and how deep your pockets are. If you want to know what brands are available, keep reading.
What chip should I get?
This is probably one of the most commonly asked and flamed questions on AF. GIAC, APR, and REVO are each going to give you very similar hp/tq gains, so to say one company is better than the other is pointless. Each company usually has dyno results posted on their website, but you have no way of knowing what conditions the dyno was taken under and each company usually overestimates its gains for marketing purposes. So what are the differences between them? The only difference between the companies is where that added power is applied in the RPM range. GIAC tends to give the power more in the low RPM’s whereas APR, and REVO tend to have more power in the higher RPM. As a general rule, if you have a B5 go with GIAC, if you have a B6 go with REVO, and if you have a B7 go with either APR or REVO. Why I say this is because this is the general consensus of the people on AF. People who have a B5 say that GIAC is the most fun to drive and it feels like the power is more available when you stomp down on the gas. People who have B6’s and B7’s usually say the same thing for REVO or APR. But power alone should not be the deciding factor in your decision. You also have to look at where each dealer is located and what their service is like. A good chip is useless without after sales support. You might want to upgrade the chip in the future to a more aggressive file so if a certain company offers discounts when upgrading you would want to pick that one. GIAC is one company in particular that will give you a discount on the proper software needed if you upgrade from your k03 turbo to a k04 turbo.
There are other chips out there, but they usually are crap. Most people who buy Neuspeed chips say they are weak, even though Neuspeed claims really high gains for less money than it's competitors. Here’s a link http://www.carbuffsweb.com/shop.asp?...temSubTypeID=1 but personally I wouldn’t get one. Your ECU is not where you want to be skimping money on. Also, chips off of ebay are usually scams if it isn't an actual ecu that is being sold with an afermarket chip flashed or soldered into it. You can't get a REAL and quality chip for your Audi for less than $500 typically. Try to find a used chipped ecu in our classifieds section if the price is too steep for you.
What intake should I get?
The best intake you can probably get is Carbonio. However, this intake costs $389. That’s a a lot of money just for an intake. Personally, I would suggest an Evo intake over a Carbonio one. Costs quite a bit less but still does the job just as good. A lot of people suggest doing the air box mod. It’s cheap and does everything a new intake does but there is a little risk involved. Water may get in ingested and cause miss fires or even hydrolock. Most of the guys who have done it have never had any problem with it and highly recomend it. More info on it can be found here: https://www.audiforums.com/m_260779/tm.htm Also an intake DOES NOT add 15-20 hp as advertised by many companies. You might get a couple extra hp from a carbonio, evo intake, and even the stock air box mod, but don’t count on it. The only reason to get an intake is to make the turbo and DV more audiable.
Which exhaust/test pipe should I get?
Which exhaust you should get depends on what kind of sound you want. Neuspeed and some custom setups are and can definitely be the loudest. You must be careful when going custom to not end up with a ricerish sound. Milltek gives the “classiest” or most "sophisticated and refined" sounding exhaust.. It is the most expensive exhaust but has a very nice deep tone to it. Borla is my personal choice. It’s cheaper than Milltek but still provides that nice deep tone. 2.25”- 2.5” exhaust is what you want to get. Unless you go BT, then you will want a 3” exhaust. A higher flowing exhaust should add as much as 10-15hp. If you want your car even louder and you want even more power you should also get a test pipe. The stock cat is one of the most restrictive parts on the car. This part WILL add a lot of power. At 2100 RPM it adds 20 hp and 50 ft/lbs of tq. Here’s a dyno chart for it: http://www.ecodetuning.com/gallery/i...s/b7a4testpipe
Not everyone can install a test pipe though. It gets rid of the cat and therefore you will not be able to pass emissions with it. If you live in a state without emissions you are fine, but if you have emissions you can’t. Your best bet would be to then get a high flow cat. I have an ecode test pipe in my car and it sounds great with the Borla exhaust. Getting a custom exhaust is usually the best way to go with 2.8/3.0's because of the limited aftermarket. It’ll probably run you cheaper than buying an exhaust from a company and still works great. Here are some sound clips of different exhaust’s on A4’s:
Magnaflow
(Credit to EuropeanAudi)
If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...d/driving2.swf In Car Sound
If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ing_test3a.swf Car Launch
If you have the Audi A4 2.8 V6 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ing_test2a.swf Drive By Sound
If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...dia4_incar.mp3 In Car Sound
If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 Click http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...ia4_launch.mp3 Car Launch
If you have the Audi A4 1.8 I4 http://images.magnaflow.com/04sound/...a4_driveby.mp3 Drive By Sound
If you have a B6 A4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRHjy...elated&search=
Sound Clip for Milltek Exhaust (Inside Cabin)
http://www.stratmosphere.com/a4tqm_g...g_56_24000.wav
Sound Clip for Borla Exhaust, standstill rev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxbcpl5j-MQ
Sound Clip for Borla Exhaust., standstill revs 2
http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/multimedia/revs2.mov
Sound clip for Borla Exhaust, driving away
http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/mult.../driveaway.mov
Sound clip for Borla Exhaust, for a B6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF0XSV93jTU
Sound clip for Neuspeed Exhaust + ecode test pipe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8RbNRUTrB8
Sound Clip for AME exhaust vs. stock exhaust for a B7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwvFIDm4GOU
Sound clip for AME exhaust
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2JgT...elated&search=
Sound Clip for APR exhaust vs. stock exhaust for a B7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=io53j...elated&search=
What kind of BOV should I get?
If you ask this question in the forum you will definitely get flamed. A BOV should not be used on an Audi. The Audi turbo system is a closed loop system by which all unused boost that is spooled during off throttle and gear shifts must be re-routed within the system; it cannot be vented to the atmosphere due to the dependence on the MAF and ECU to properly read and interpret air flow dynamics within the intake tract. Therefore BOV's (Blow-Off Valves) are not used because they create a rich air/fuel condition (i.e. less air to fuel ratio) which will damage the catalytic converter, create soot on the exhaust pipes, and cause occasional misfiring (due to the purged air) which will result in ECU miscalculated timing adjustments and other errors.
For Audi closed loop turbo systems, a BPV (By-Pass Valve) or DV (Diverter Valve) is needed to recirculate the purged air and keep it within the intake tract.
(credit ImolaS4)
What DV should I get?
Now this is right question you should asking instead of "which BOV to get?". As for which one you should get is entirely up to you. First option is the 710N. This DV comes stock on Audi TT (225hp version) to compensate for the added boost from the k04. It is the cheapest one you can buy (typicaly found for $35-$40) and will work fine if all you plan to do to the car is chip and few other mods. The next option is a Forge series DV. Forge 006 and Forge 007 (virtually the same thing but the 007 has a smaller external design for optimal fitment on an S4 application). They are fully serviceable and adjustable. If you are upping the boost all you need to do is switch out the spring. This (007) is probably the most widely available and recommended DV to get. It is ideal if you’re going to be upgrading the turbo. There are other DV’s out there like Bailey’s, EVOMS, Hyperboost, etc. They each work just as well as the Forge series, so whichever you can get for cheapest is the one you should get. A new DV will not add any power but it will make the “psshh” sound more audible, and especially with an intake or air box mod.
Which Turbo should I get?
This all depends on how much power you want vs. reliability, and how deep your pockets are. The most reliable and easiest one to swap to is a k04-015. You don’t have to swap anything else out. It’s a direct bolt on replacement. But you’re probably going to max out a little under 300hp. The other popular choices are GT28RS, GT2871r, and GT3071r. With a gt28rs you will get more power but you will have to swap a bunch of stuff out as well. It maxes out around 350-375 hp I believe. A gt2871r is going to provide similar results to the gt28rs. The only difference is the gt28rs will spool faster. If you want even more power go with a GT3071R. It maxes out at about mid 400 hp range, I believe. Again you will have to change other stuff as well. If you want detailed info on these three turbos, then check out this link: http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release050304.htm
There are others as well, but these are the popular choices.
How reliable are Audi’s?
Audi’s, contrary to popular belief, are reliable cars. They just need a little more attention than other cars do. A car is only going to be as reliable as you are. If you change the oil every 5k miles with synthetic oil, put in 91 or higher octane gas, and do all the other required maintenance at its recommended intervals than the car will be very reliable. The engine’s are a marvel of German technology and are capable of exceeding 200k+ miles on them no problem. The 2.8 tends to be more reliable than the 1.8T because its not forced induction. Depending on which generation A4 (B5, B6, B7, etc.) they each have their own notorious flaws just like a lot of other cars. Do keep in mind though, as far as reliabilty, Audi just can't compete with a Honda or Toyota. The style and uniqueness of Audi is legendary, and makes ownership and the satisfaction of driving in general top notch compared to any other car maker. This tends to make up for any of Audis shortcomings as far as less than top notch reliability goes.
Should I get an Audi?
It depends on your financial situation. If you are a poor teenager, then this most likely isn’t the car for you. You should have at least an extra grand after purchasing the car for repairs/maintenance. Audi’s are not cheap cars to own and maintain. The parts for the car really aren’t that expensive, although there are some exceptions. The real killer is the labor. The car cannot be serviced/repaired everywhere and the places that can do it charge you up the wazoo for labor. Working on an Audi really isn’t that much different from working on other cars though. So if you are mechanically inclined and can DIY for most things, then that will cut down on the cost of owning one significantly.
Which A4 should I get?
Depending on what year/generation you are interested in, there are several differences to take into consideration when it comes to performance, reliability and availability for future modifications. Quattro is a what Audi is most well known for when it comes to "options," and is most desireable over FWD . Try driving a FWD compared to a Quattro and you will know what I mean. They are completely different cars. It doesn’t matter if you live in a place where it doesn’t snow or other stuff like that. Quattro in my mind is a must when getting an Audi. Now which engine should you get? It depends on if you’re looking to mod the car, or if you want more reliability. The 1.8T has loads of mods and the more fun to drive in my opinion. The 2.8 is more reliable than the 1.8T but has practically no mods. It starts with 40 more hp than the 1.8T in stock form, but is also slightly heavier. The only way to get serious power out of the 2.8 is with a supercharger. But they cost 4-5 grand for a complete setup. Lots of info can be found out about supercharging the 2.8 at www.scaudi.com Also more info can be found about this subject here: https://www.audiforums.com/m_355352/tm.htm
There is also a supercharger kit available for the 3.0 B6 model.
The newer generation A4's come with a 2.0T base engine and an optional 3.2 V6- both with optional multitronic, tiptronic, and 6 speed manual transmissions.
Auto vs. Manual
In a race a manual will beat an auto any day of the week. It can launch properly and shift faster (most of the time). The manual transmission will be able to handle any amount of power you’re going to be putting into the car. The tiptronic tranny will not be able to support anything above about 300 ft. lbs of torque. If your dead set on more power and have an auto tranny, then you can get a level 10 upgrade. http://www.levelten.com/ is where you can find info about that. You can cut down on the shift time of the tiptronic with a tip chip. GIAC is the only choice for this. Also the automatic tranny will lose some power through the torque converter. An auto tranny can however shift a lot better than a human can in most cases, especially when you add a tip chip.
(credit TheJazz7)
The A4 2.8/3.0
So you got an A4 without doing much research first and picked a 2.8/3.0 without knowing it had practically no mods for it, or maybe you just wanted the extra reliability but still want to mod it. So what parts are there for it? As for exhaust, there is Neuspeed, Decorsa, Thermal, Milltek, and Supersprint. For the 2.8 only Milltek offers a full cat-back exhaust. The rest of those are for the 3.0. For chips, there is Neuspeed, GIAC, and Wetterauer. For intake there is Stratmosphere. For under drive pulley you have Unorthodox Racing. The last mod you can do to it is a supercharger. Pretty much the only major power mod for the 2.8. It’ll cost you around 4-5 grand, and you will be getting around 300 hp. www.scaudi.com has lots of info on superchargers and has group buys so you can get one for cheaper. No company makes a turbocharger for the 2.8 but some guys have made one-off setups so it’s possible. Exhaust, intake, and a chip will get you about 12-18 hp. For a lot more detailed info on the 2.8 check out this link: https://www.audiforums.com/m_177186/tm.htm
(credit Grouse)
Ebay
eBay, this wonderful online auction where you can normally get stuff for dirt cheap, is NOT the place you want to be buying stuff for your Audi. There are some exceptions though. The eBay short shifter is one of these. They are a lot cheaper than the ones you find from tuning companies and yet still work just as good. The eBay intercooler- most people used to think they were all crap and did no good whatsoever. This however is not true. Most of the ones found on eBay now are actually pretty good. The only problem is they are larger than say a greddy, APR, or DUH intercooler. And there is not much space to stick an intercooler behind the A4’s front bumper, so more cutting may be required. The appeal to this intercooler is that it is substantially cheaper than a greddy, APR, etc. would run you. One from eBay would run you about $100 for the core and then you can get piping custom made for it at a local shop. It will end up running you roughly $100-$200 if you can install it yourself, whereas the Greddy one will run you about $1000. Just make sure the intercooler is a bar and plate design. Definitely stay away from all headlights, chips, and stuff that looks cheaply made. The headlights are poorly made, fog up all the time, and quite often have leaks that allow water to get inside the housing.
What year is my car/What are the differences between the generations?
If you want to know whether you have a 99 or a 99.5, or if you just want to know the differences of the exterior of the A4 over the years, then you should check out this link: http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/a4/diff/ Engine wise the 97-99.5 are nDBW and 2000+ are DBW. If you’re planning on extensively modding your car, nDBW is the way to go. If you’re just getting a chip and a few other mods, then it doesn't really matter. 99.5 is considered to be the best year because it is still nDBW but it has all the upgrades the 2000+ had, like one-piece headlights, improved timing belt tensioner, and other stuff. In 2001, the stock hp rose from 150 hp to 170 hp. This was done through variable valve timing, different compression (from 9.5:1 to 9.3:1) and different programming along with a k03 sport that increased the boost by .3 bar (from .5 to .8). Also throughout the years the 1.8T engines have had different codes. 97-99.5 are AEB, 2000 are ATW, and 2001 are AWM. AEB engines are the best to work on and mod and have more aftermarket. For 2.8 B5, there were two different versions of the 2.8L V6 available. A 12v from 96-97, and the 30v was introduced in 98. The 12v motor is the least desireable, though it is very reliable at 170hp. The 30v is also very reliable and comes with a 190hp motor that (as stated numerous times) can be supercharged.
Recommended Service Intervals
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/audi/
Last time i checked it had everything you needed for 97-04. Very detailed. Only thing is you gotta have is a .pdf reader to see them. If you don't have adobe reader, then download Foxit Reader, its free, small in size, and better than adobe IMO.
Stereo Info
All of this information is for the Bose system. I can't say for certain it is the same for the non Bose system, but i think the speaker sizes are the same. The front doors and rear dears both have 5 1/4" speakers, and the rear deck has 6 1/2" speakers. A lot of people don't believe these are the speaker sizes because they can't get the same size speakers to fit. This is because the Bose speakers have custom mounts. If you are going to be installing an aftermarket speaker, you will have to get an adapter. The factory bose amp is on the driver's side trunk under the parcel shelf.
Common Problems
Common problems on A4's are timing belt, control arms, tie rod ends, oil sludge, and sunroof.. The timing belt tenioners in 97-99 models were a bad design. If you have a pre-2000, its better to do it sooner (60-70k miles) if it's never been done because of the crappy tensioner. Post-2000- If the timing belt snaps you are pretty much f*cked. It will most likely push the pistons up and bend the valves and other nasty stuff due to being an interference engine type, unless you are lucky and didn't get internal damage. The former will require an engine rebuild. While having your timing belt changed, you also might as well change the water pump and a other belts. The best way is to buy a kit from renn-art, pure motorsports, or ecs tuning (our sponsors found in the Audi links.) If you do it yourself it will run you roughly $300, or, you can get a local tuner to do it. A good price is around $600- $700, and if you take it to the stealership, it typcialy runs between $1,000 and $1,500!! Oil sludge is more of a problem for the 1.8T than the 2.8. Just make sure to use fully synthetic oil, and use the larger OEM updated oil filter (for the 1.8t.) Change it every 3-5k miles and you won't ever have to worry about this. For B5 models, the bushings and overall design are just no durable enough to go longer than 80k miles (sometimes less.) For the tie rods- it's just a bad design by Audi that tends to fail within 80k miles (for B5's) The sunroof can be troublesome in most A4's. It is usually one of two things. You either need to clean the contacts (DIY-http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html) or you need a new relay switch.
By: chaos92287, with special help from the above^ referenced members and onepoint8tee
Some of the above information is B5-biased. This is due to the fact that the B5 model has been around the longest, and there is more knowledge about reliablility, modifications, etc. pertaining to it. It tends to be the most commonly owned model in the community. This guide will continually be updated as new information is available and is in demand for all models.
#4
03-19-2010, 12:36 PM
4 year old post and still great.
One thing I can't stress enough to brand new people is that you need to give the car a good tune-up way before you mod. Fix any leaks, clean any sludge and do any maintenance items first(timing belt, water pump etc, everthing mentioned before)! Modifying an engine puts more stress on the whole thing, so you need to make sure it's running as good as you can get it.
It's sometimes lame, boring and less satisfying to spend money on maintenance, but it will save you a lot of money down the road. Are your spark plugs fowled? Is your air-filter clogged? Is your cabin filter clogged? Is your PCV system working or is it clogged? Is your brake fluid clear and at the proper level? When was the last brake fluid flush? Is your throttle body full of oil/build up? Is your power steering whinning a bit or a lot? How are all the hoses/vacuum lines?
If you search, there's a lot of stuff on maintenance and reliabilility mods. It's helped me a lot!
One thing I can't stress enough to brand new people is that you need to give the car a good tune-up way before you mod. Fix any leaks, clean any sludge and do any maintenance items first(timing belt, water pump etc, everthing mentioned before)! Modifying an engine puts more stress on the whole thing, so you need to make sure it's running as good as you can get it.
It's sometimes lame, boring and less satisfying to spend money on maintenance, but it will save you a lot of money down the road. Are your spark plugs fowled? Is your air-filter clogged? Is your cabin filter clogged? Is your PCV system working or is it clogged? Is your brake fluid clear and at the proper level? When was the last brake fluid flush? Is your throttle body full of oil/build up? Is your power steering whinning a bit or a lot? How are all the hoses/vacuum lines?
If you search, there's a lot of stuff on maintenance and reliabilility mods. It's helped me a lot!
#5
04-13-2010, 02:42 PM
4 year old post and still great.
One thing I can't stress enough to brand new people is that you need to give the car a good tune-up way before you mod. Fix any leaks, clean any sludge and do any maintenance items first(timing belt, water pump etc, everthing mentioned before)! Modifying an engine puts more stress on the whole thing, so you need to make sure it's running as good as you can get it.
It's sometimes lame, boring and less satisfying to spend money on maintenance, but it will save you a lot of money down the road. Are your spark plugs fowled? Is your air-filter clogged? Is your cabin filter clogged? Is your PCV system working or is it clogged? Is your brake fluid clear and at the proper level? When was the last brake fluid flush? Is your throttle body full of oil/build up? Is your power steering whinning a bit or a lot? How are all the hoses/vacuum lines?
If you search, there's a lot of stuff on maintenance and reliabilility mods. It's helped me a lot!
One thing I can't stress enough to brand new people is that you need to give the car a good tune-up way before you mod. Fix any leaks, clean any sludge and do any maintenance items first(timing belt, water pump etc, everthing mentioned before)! Modifying an engine puts more stress on the whole thing, so you need to make sure it's running as good as you can get it.
It's sometimes lame, boring and less satisfying to spend money on maintenance, but it will save you a lot of money down the road. Are your spark plugs fowled? Is your air-filter clogged? Is your cabin filter clogged? Is your PCV system working or is it clogged? Is your brake fluid clear and at the proper level? When was the last brake fluid flush? Is your throttle body full of oil/build up? Is your power steering whinning a bit or a lot? How are all the hoses/vacuum lines?
If you search, there's a lot of stuff on maintenance and reliabilility mods. It's helped me a lot!
#6
01-15-2011, 08:04 PM
This is a great post my only question is where to start after the Maintenance? i was thinking about doing new suspension but the problem ive run into there is what type, what brand, etc. any suggestions?
#7
02-21-2012, 02:12 PM
1st gear here! theflash you are right!first mods/maintence that I did was oil,plugs,k@n panel filter,serp belt,trans filter and fluid change,the basics. I want to upgrade a few things,and the info here on this thread have answered all of my questions :0)
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