Wierd... When you disconnect the battery for a while your codes are cleared right? I did that twice since it's happened and nothing changed. I still have to try cleaning my TB and MAF. North, you said you just spray some throttle body cleaner in the TB and on the MAF right? Do you have to be extra careful when spraying the MAF? Also i'm sure you did but did you test for boost leaks?

 

No I haven't checked for boost leaks. At WOT its 21PSI, so it'd have to be one damn small leak. I can't see how a leak would still allow me to hold at between 18-19PSI. Anyways I do have a code now and again for hitting max PSI, but I clear them.

Yeah take the MAF out of your airbox and gently spray in a short burst aimed at the little flint like looking piece inside. Your car will act all weird at first for maybe 5 min, the revs will go up and down. Mine stalled, but after a good run for about 5 min it ran and idled better. When cleaning the TB, just take off the IC hose, rinse that out and spray the TB cleaner on and inside the TB flap. You can tell I am good with technical terms.

 

alright cool i'm going to try that. After spraying down the TB do you wait a while and then clean up the residue with a rag or just spray it in there and be done with it?

 

With the MAF maybe wait an hour then reattach - give it a chance to dry.

With the TB, I sprayed it and it dripped off. I held some newspaper under the TB while spraying to catch all the liquid. I didn't really wait for that to dry, just hooked back up the IC hose.

 

dude it sounds like a boost leak...

 

Can someone answer this question for me?

 

Have you done a TBA - Throttle Body Alignment? You need to do that every time you disconnect your battery. And yes it will clear the codes.

AteUrV8 - Ok I'll give you 10/1 odds I don't have a boost leak. How can I have a boost leak at 0-5 PSI but yet not @ WOT? My guage is acruate - 21PSI at WOT. It would make more sense that if I did have a leak it would show on the top end because there is more pressure going through the vac lines.

 

Thanks North. Yea i did the TBA ... All you have to do is turn the key half way until you hear your TB making noises for about a minute.. right?

Oh and I think AteUrV8 was referring to me when he said it sounds like a boost leak.

 

Yeah he probably was

Yes thats all you need to do. If you have a VAG COM, you may have a code associated with the TBA, I know I did. So if I were you disconnect the battery to clear any codes (or vag if you have one), do the TBA, then go out for a quick run around the block to see if anything has changed.

I got a cheapo ODBII scanner on ebay and it works well for finding and clearing codes. It doesn't find all the codes but it gets the major ones.

 

So here's an update. I tested for boost leaks, none. Put in the old n75 valve, still jerks. So I've ruled out boost leaks and the n75 valve and I'm 99% sure it's not my Bailey DV as thats only a few months old. My CEL came on for my speed sensor, so I need to get a new speed sensor, but would that cause the car to accelerate jerky or is that unrelated? What else could it be? Is it an early sign of my turbo on it's way to blowing? This is really starting to bother me.