Last week after Redskins game
#12
RE: Last week after Redskins game
well, as per the AF 1.8T troubleshooting guide... (https://www.audiforums.com/m_311488/tm.htm)
...
ORIGINAL: aRIf
MAF – Mass air flow meter is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).
MAF – Mass air flow meter is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).
#13
RE: Last week after Redskins game
I could be wrong but i was told that if the check engine light doesnt come back on that the car did fix itself of whatever mis-fire problem you had. Has it been acting the same since u cleared it?
#15
RE: Last week after Redskins game
check the turbo inlet hose make sure it didn't pop it's self off the turbo mine did once and under full boost the car seemed to be misfiring but was later to be explained to me as some major surging from the turbo and 01's did have coild problem just not as often i had to coils go out on me about a year agoa and it toasted my spark plugs sprayed fuel on the wind shield and made it lots of fun since i was on the highway doing 80 at the time just an fyi
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