well you can start with a throttle body alignment

take the battery cable off for a few minutes, then turn the key to the second position (the last withough starting the car)

then let it sit with the key like that for 5-10 minutes while the throttle body re adjust's

 

take the battery cable off for a few minutes? keep it off then put the key in...

 

anyone have any new ideas? planning on taking it to the shop but if i can avoid it $$$ i would rather try myself.

 

Did you do the throttle body alignment???

If not do that first.

From your description, you either need the TBA, or you have a Major air leak, like "the hose on the engine intake manifold has gotten loose and fell off" kind of leak.

This happened to me once, the car would idle OK, but soon as I hit the gas, it wanted to die, not so much while sitting, but when I trien to put it in gear and go.

Here, read this.....

https://www.audiforums.com/m_257173/tm.htm

 

If you car is drive by wire, do the throttle body allignment.

 

i do believe it is drive by wire but i'm not 100% positive. I have a 98.5 1.8t. from searching and reading i "believe" its a dbw.

I haven't tried it by flooring it. From what i got from the thread (thanks for the link acetrebo) i need to do the following:

1. Press the gas pedal to the floor
2. Put the car in the "ON" and keep pressing the gas pedal for 3 minutes
3. Turn the car off then start it.

is that it?

I'm thinking that it might be a hose as well. I have no idea where though. I was told to check the maf but i've never had to deal with a maf before nor do i know hwere its located...i'm a newbie Audi owner from the world of Honda. I'm reading the ecu with a pocket reader and the code is showing the the pending stage for some reason too...

Which hose are you referencing? the one that goes to the dv? or another one? i have checked the dv and replaced the hose but still same problem.

 

Sorry about the confusion, your 98, so you are NOT drive by wire.

Somewhere I got confused.

So, you have replaced the plugs. You said you had a misfire code earlier.

So, if you have no way to read codes, you want to start eliminating components. There is a test for coil packs, and a test for the Ignition contol module.

Heres a test for the ICM
http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1594531.phtml

You can rule out the $150 ICM with this test.

Otherwise, it could be the coilpacks as well. They can easily be replaced. There is a certain OHM they should read, can be tested with a voltmeter. i will have to get my manual and look it up for you. But then you could test them as well.

Obviously, this is a lot harder to fix if you cant read codes and if you dont have a manual to help you. the best thing you could do is buy an OBDII code reader and a haynes or bently.

I will post the info back here in a few, or if someone else knows what OHMS the coilpacks should read, please post.

 

The only code that it is throwing is a P1545. I replaced the coilpacks and still the same thing, the ICM is brand new...not even 200 miles on it.

 

17953
P1545
Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction

Man, I tried searching this, found a few in depth threads, But......

Start here: Take the hose of from the SMIC to the throttle body intake.

Clean it out real good if its dirty, make sure the butterfly valve is opening and closing freely.

This code is realted to the sensor that reads how much throttle is being requested, IE how hard you're pressing the gas pedal.

For some reason, either the valve is not opening up (check the throttle cable itself and make sure it is working by watching while someone steps on the gas pedal) or the sensor is bad, or the wiring harness is corroded and has a bad connection.

Here's a similar thread: https://www.audiforums.com/m_347337/tm.htm


What I would try, is
1. undo battery cable
2. clean out throttle body. Make sure flap is closed.
3. pull electrical cable off the sensor, look for corrosion, clean.
4. hook battery back up.
5. try TBA if applicable (I dont think it is for you, 98, but not 100% sure). All you have to do is turn key to assesory position for a couple minutes.)
6. Then start it, see what happens. If a code comes back then, and you still have the same problem, I would guess that the sensor is bad and needs replaced.

I hope this helps you out, and good luck. Let us know if this fixes it, or whatever does fix it.

 

Check your engine code to know for sure, or look for the mechanical throttle cable.

AEB = NDBW
ATW = DBW

You're 98 you said, so you should be NDBW.