HELP Audi A4 Engine/Oil Problems
#12
RE: HELP Audi A4 Engine/Oil Problems
Aight, well I did a DIY Oil flush, and it has seemed to work, No more ticking, no more oil light!. I flushed the engine with some autorx and installed an oversized mobil 1 filter (that thing is like twice the size of my k&n filter) with mobil 1 full syn oil. Runs incredibly smooth now. ALOT of sludge came out when I did the oil flush, the oil was that came out was completly black, and this was after an oil change.
Thanks for all your help guys! My baby is back!
Thanks for all your help guys! My baby is back!
#14
RE: HELP Audi A4 Engine/Oil Problems
[quote]ORIGINAL: hollisterrobsta
Aight, well I did a DIY Oil flush, and it has seemed to work, No more ticking, no more oil light!. I flushed the engine with some autorx and installed an oversized mobil 1 filter (that thing is like twice the size of my k&n filter) with mobil 1 full syn oil. Runs incredibly smooth now. ALOT of sludge came out when I did the oil flush, the oil was that came out was completly black, and this was after an oil change.
Thanks for all your help guys! My baby is back!
Aight, well I did a DIY Oil flush, and it has seemed to work, No more ticking, no more oil light!. I flushed the engine with some autorx and installed an oversized mobil 1 filter (that thing is like twice the size of my k&n filter) with mobil 1 full syn oil. Runs incredibly smooth now. ALOT of sludge came out when I did the oil flush, the oil was that came out was completly black, and this was after an oil change.
Thanks for all your help guys! My baby is back!
#17
hi my name is indra from indonesia i have an 2004 audi a4 2.0 , i am having problem with my oil indicator problem it seen to light up so often, i am so use to keep pouring oil every 500- 1000km , but this time its getting worst , just three day ago i just add 5-30w oill from shell as iam out of town , the next day the light indicatorn light up again, then i have no choice but to use 10-40w oil, and today again the light went on , i have to top up 3 liter of oil in no more than 4 days . please help me what to do ...... thanks
#18
Indra
I just went through this and the earlier threads might very well relate to your problem. The 1.8 and 2.0 T's have a problem with oil sludge. The problem stems from a design fault where the return line for oil/cool on the turbo is against the engine block (note metal shield now on the design. The oil is so hot in gets sludgy and upon return sits in the engine block. To address this, Audi placed oil screens inside the pan to prevent the sludge from ending up on the top of the engine. Then, the problem becomes a screen that over 60,000 miles begins to get clogged, starving the upper block of oil. At that point, the engine oil light comes on (indicating starve). If you start hearing that clicking sound once engine heats up, you are starving the top. The oil reads full, and even if you change it, it comes right back until everything is cleaned out. If you do it all quickly, you save the upper half...if not, the engine goes. You must drop the pan, clean the oil screen, have the engine flushed, and then, only use synthetic (sludge less). Change every 3000 miles to be safe I am told. Take the oil sludge seriously, and get it cleaned now if this sounds right. Cost me $800 for complete work. Engine now runs great, more power and 2mpg better gas mileage. This is a long term maintenance issue you must be keen to stay up on. Good luck
I just went through this and the earlier threads might very well relate to your problem. The 1.8 and 2.0 T's have a problem with oil sludge. The problem stems from a design fault where the return line for oil/cool on the turbo is against the engine block (note metal shield now on the design. The oil is so hot in gets sludgy and upon return sits in the engine block. To address this, Audi placed oil screens inside the pan to prevent the sludge from ending up on the top of the engine. Then, the problem becomes a screen that over 60,000 miles begins to get clogged, starving the upper block of oil. At that point, the engine oil light comes on (indicating starve). If you start hearing that clicking sound once engine heats up, you are starving the top. The oil reads full, and even if you change it, it comes right back until everything is cleaned out. If you do it all quickly, you save the upper half...if not, the engine goes. You must drop the pan, clean the oil screen, have the engine flushed, and then, only use synthetic (sludge less). Change every 3000 miles to be safe I am told. Take the oil sludge seriously, and get it cleaned now if this sounds right. Cost me $800 for complete work. Engine now runs great, more power and 2mpg better gas mileage. This is a long term maintenance issue you must be keen to stay up on. Good luck
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