i thought i cleared that up in a earlier post. It is the STOCK style manifolds used for elims that crack, not the log t3/t25 manifolds. The problem is the flange is weak there and the elims are not braced in like a stock turbo and they are also a few lbs heavier. no support + more weight + weak material around the flange = total breakage.


sorry for the 20post, i cant quote everyone in one post here [:@]

 

they will hold it. for a while.. but IMO, they aren't rated for chipped power levels. very soft and lots of slip. for a BT, if you are going to do any sort of spirited driving. which of coarse you are, since you're going BT. you NEED to upgrade the clutch.. cause the clutch will go, fast. and sometimes it won't just slip into nothing. pressure plates can crack/snap. shrapnel can be sent off damaging drivetrain parts, the bellhousing, starter motor, etc..

 

Thats not the turbo from the apr stage 3+ kit is it? I need reliability, because i suck at car stuff. =[

 

^no, APR stage 3 kit uses a gt28r turbo. the stage3+ kit uses a gt28rs(rated 50more hp)

but reliability will not have much do do with the turbo selection. as long as it's a Garrett turbo. but reliability will have VERY much too do with your how well your car is tuned and what power your car is putting out..

Mya4T - you are going about this the wrong way man. you are asking the wrong questions first and not the right questions at all..

2 questions i have for you:

1 - what do you want out of your car? (are you going to race it? what kind of racing, 1/4mile? auto x? roadcoarse? what cars do you want to beat/keep up with on the road?)

2 - how much money are you willing to spend on your car?

 

like sean said about APR. The t3 60trim is rated a few hp less (maybe 15) and is $700 internally gated. Will still make 300whp on just over 20psi boost and should be good up to 24psi on pump

 

Sean1.8, what i meant by some of the race manifolds will crack at the weld, but run better up top flow. I remember cincy educated me on that one in my bt post.

 

no misinformation in my posts....

but you guys need to seperate this forum into B5 and b6... not everyone lists what car they have in their sig or in their posts....
thats where my "misinformation" is... i might be talking about something thinking he has a b6 when he doesnt so my info is way the hell off

and even the new style ATP manis are cracking... even guys who had them ceramic coated and built turbo support brackets have still had them crack! a few weeks ago two guys on the zine got new manis from ATP that were already cracked!
i would stay with a tubular mani from 034 or the APR 3+ kit... but that would only be for a b6... since this guy has a b5 we are arguing about nothing

 

right welding techniques and proper materials for the manifold will make it last. You really should support a turbo on a welded manifold with some form of bracing. This will reduce the chance of cracking a good amount.

 

OH PLEASE SHOW ME, im going to love saying im right when you show me a stock style manifold and not a t25/t3 log manifold

 

Best read ive had all day