You don't touch a DV to chip a car.

 

huh?

 

Pablo, I appreciate your input, however, as I said in my original post, the stock DV was replaced with a new 710N (as suggested when chippinga car) so the suggestion to check for a loose DV connection is valid.

I just did a visual inspection and all hoses and lines look good to me, including the DV connection but I'm no expert. I found a DIY way to check for a boost leak which I'll try tomorrow.

Let's say I do find a leak, is there a way that I can get the car started to drive it to a mechanic?

 

yea, i would check that the dv is clamped and in all the way

 

Well then that opens up an entire gammut of possibilities. Sorry guys, I jumped the gun

 

When the car stalls, does it immediately cut out, or does it sputter and slowly die. When you have a REALLY bad boost leak, like a disconnected hose, it will probably sputter and slowly die. If it stalls quickly, it could be ecu/immobilizer related. Just my .02 and good luck.

 

The car starts and thenstalls quickly 2 seconds later. I also disconnected the battery for 15 minutes thinking that it could be something electronic but the car still stalled after re-connecting the battery 15 minutes later.

I'm going to conduct a DIY boost leak test later on today and see what happens? Still can't bring it anywhere because of the holiday.

I'm curious...how does the immbolizer get triggered and how would you de-activate it? By disconnecting the battery?

Something else I noticedafter re-connecting the battery...the automatic closing of the front windows doesn't work anymore. You know how you just press the window switch up once and let go and the window goes up all the way by itself? Doesn't happen anymore. I now have to keep the switch pressed until the window closes. Is that supposed to happen?

 

After the car stalls, are any lights flashing on the dash? If your car has immobilizer, there would be a car w/key light that would be flashing after you try to start it.

Immobilizer is tied to the key, instrument cluster and ECU. Do you have another key? Try it and see if it works. If you give it gas after it starts, does it rev up before it stalls?

The auto-up/down thing on the windows not working is normal after disconnecting the battery. To reset this, lower the window all the way and hold the button for 5 seconds after the window is lowered, then raise it and hold the button for 5 seconds. Repeat for each window.

 

As far as the window issue, yes that will happen. There is a method to "re-learn" for the windows... something like just running them all the way down and then back up three times, try doing a search on that for the exact proceedure.

The very first time starting the engineafter doing my timing belt job I had the same problem... starts then dies. Only took a second to realize what I did... forgot to reconnect the the intake to the intercooler. Use this pic as a guide:


Follow the piping from the throttle body to the intercooler to the intercooler/turbo pipe to the turbo. Since a lot of people have you checking the DV area you may have overlooked an obvious hose on the other side of the car. Just a thought.

 

Yes, that's exactly what happens. When I start the car with the gas pedal depressed, it revs up and then it stalls. Does that give a better indication as to what's happening?

I'll try the window "re-learn" thing.

99A4Now, very nice diagram. Thanks.