Trust me, i do all kinds of things i don't remember when i work on engines, or notice for that matter. At least you know it has to be something YOU did, so it can't be too hard to find.
Im attaching this image just to make sure you have the cams lined up correctly.

 

yes..i have seem a similar pic. My buddy and I thought we did skip a link while changing the seal...so we went back in there and turned the cam one link the way we thought it had gotten off. After we did that, and started the car it ran-started-sounded so bad it was crazy. So we turned it back the other way and has run the same ever since. I was amazed at how much one link can throw it off. Unless you think we turned it the wrong way and were two links off. Have you experienced a cam being off a link to give me a reference?

 

Never a cam off a chain link, but i have seen a timing belt off a tooth which will throw a cam allocation fault P1340 which you don't have, plus it won't throw any miss-fires. So as far as my experience is telling me, its an intake or ignition problem, possibly a sensor.

 

I dont know your familiarity with the 2.8 but when we did the cam seal, the write up suggested unplugging a sensor in the back. We did and it gave us more room to work. We have checked that sensor a thousand times to make sure it was plugged in. Do you know what that sensor controls. Does it have anything to do with the intake? should i explore this more?

 

The only sensors back there are the connector for the cam adjuster on the passenger's side, and the CTS sensor. The connectors on the firewall there are the Bank 1 O2 sensor, knock sensor, rear O2 sensor, and the engine speed sensor. Im not sure why they would have you un-plug those connections, i hope you plugged the throttle body connector back in if you took it off.

 

No. never unplugged the throttle body plug. This was a little 3 pin plug not on the firewall at all. Almost directly behind the cam tensioner, if not a little towards the center of the car. Probably nothing anyways. It was kinda deep down it there. If it is some leak, would that make the car run rich or lean? Would my power and MPG suffer if it was one or the other? Also would one or the other more likely cause my CEL to flash? At least i have it narrowed down to bank one.

 

It was probably the CTS (coolant temp sensor)
If there is un-metered air in the engine (air into the engine after the MAF) if would run lean.
The O2 sensors will see this air and thefuel system would richen up the fuel mixture to compensate for this air, and if the leak is bad enough it could cause a miss-fire bad enough to throw a flashing check engine light. So yes, all the symptoms resemble a vac leak.

 

Is there a good way for me to test for a vac leak? I guess im thinking of some sort of a seafoam or something. Would a vac leak render the CMP useless, cause wether its pluged in or not the engine runs the same.

 

Its not likely at all, i just wanna take care of the major problems first, because miss-fires will damage your engine, the CMP code won't.

As for checking for leaks, smoke testing the intake is the most effective method. The dealer will take off the intake hose and pressurize the intake with compressed gas and fill it with smoke.
Old school ways to find it would be to use a propane torch around the engine (NOT LIT!) and see if the idle races (increases) that can be dangerous though.

Most likely its gonna be one of those vaccum lines on the back of the intake right above the throttle body where they all connect on top of that plastic plate. I have found lots of frayed vaccum lines there, and there are also vaccum check valves that break off.

 

P1338 CPS Open Circuit.

Make sure wires are clean at points of connection,
and the sensor is properly grounded.