The cam adjuster usually throws cam allocation faults when it sticks. The possiblities are you don't have exactly 16 teeth between the the timing marks, the cam tensioner/s is bad, or the tension on the timing belt is not correct.

Another thing, there is no such thing as a P3000, P3001, P3002 or P3003 fault codes.
There are P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0303 which are miss-fire fault codes.
The P1338 fault code is for the cam sensor, but an electronic fault code, not cam shaft out of sequence, which is a P1340.

So, what im getting at is, if the fault codes are indeed miss-fires, then it probably has nothing to do with the timing.

 

Great, thanks for the info. That is something to look into. Ill check it out.

 

auditech79- how would i know if my cam adjuster is stuck? Is this the same part as the cam tensioner? What should i look for too see forsure if this is the problem? Also is there a way to change the tension that the tensioner puts on the timing belt? I didnt read anything in the forums to watch out for this problem. thanks for your response, this has been very helpful.

 

BUMP!!!!!! Can anybody answer my last question about the cam adjuster? any info would be great!!!!! thanks guys.

 

Youcan only tell if the tensioner is stuck with a VAG COM on data block 73I think.
I highly doubt onethe tensioners is stuck on a 2.8L engine though, because i have never seen it.

You really should buy a VAG COM to help you diagnose this problem, its almost impossible without one.

 

I have a standard OBD2 code reader at my disposal....is this tool the same as the VAG-COM? This is how i have recently been getting my codes read and clearing my CEL. If this is the same tool how do i get it to data block 73? I have compressed the cam tensioner twice recently to fix my oil leak. Is the chain easy to stretch? Why do i keep getting the same codes even after my CMP is fixed? Again codes p300 p301 p302 p303 and p1338. Also i have tested the 3 pin plug to the CMP and everything checked out as in working condition.

 

The VAG COM is a reversed engineered version of the VAS 5051/5052 scan tool that the dealer uses which costs well over $5,000. The VAG can do things no other scan tool can do, the cable only costs around $250 from www.ross-tech.com and is probably the most important tool you will ever use.
You can't access data block 73 without the VAG, a CEL reader just reads CEL's, its pretty much worthless IMO.
The chain isn't going to stretch, im thinking that there might not be a problem thats causing the miss-fires which is the main problem, don't worry about the CMP code for now.

Getting back to the miss-fire codes, there are tons of possibilities for this:
Vaccum leak, MAF sensor fouled, O2 sensor, bad ICM/s, fuel pressure regulator.
All of these are easily diagnosed with the VAG COM, if you know how to use it.
Data blocks are live data from a certain control module, for instance data block 1 of the ECM would probably show, MAF data, CTS temp, IAT temp, and crank speed.
From those blocks i can tell if a sensor isn't working correctly, if you have a vaccum leak running lean, or if you're running rich.

 

WOW.......5 grand. I guess i dont have a VAG-COM. I have cleaned the MAF, that was the first thing i tried. My oily hands got oil on the air filter, and i read that oil can lift of the filter and dirty up the maf. Im just really trying to narrow downthe relation betweenthese codes, and the work i didreplacing TB and replacing the cam tensioner seal. The second I started my car after all this workwas done ihad these symptoms. Poor power (i know its a 2.8), poor MPG and a terrible shutter when puttering around. My engine is not terribly "clicky" as described by the other guys with bad cam tensioners, but maybe its different on the 2.8. How much should it cost for me to get it VAg-COMed? Thanks for the help and quick replies auditech 79!!!!!!!

 

The vag com doesn't cost 5000 dollars, only $250 for the cable and you can down load it to your lap topfor free. Its comparable to a 5 thousand dollar scanner.

Thats another reason i don't think its the tensioners because the engine would sound like a diesel.
I really think its some kind of a vaccum leak which is common when doing large repairs.

 

Thanks agian....youve been really helpfull. I think i will bite the bullet and take it in to get it VAG-COMed, especially if it can narrow down the problem more. My memory does not remember unhooking any vaccum lines during the TB or cam seal replacment. Can you think of any offhand? I dont hear any unusual hissing or whistling at idle or revving. I should look a little closer. thanks.