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best streetable turbo setup

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  #21  
Old 10-25-2007, 12:35 PM
cincyTT's Avatar
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

ORIGINAL: turbo kraut

what about the t3/t4, 60 trim i think how much of a "problem" is that going to be compared to the others talked about?

i am looking for something simple that does have driveablility and a good dd turbo as, i know he said about getting the vr-t as a project, but it seems like he wants this to be a dd and project in one, opposed to chaos?
Your going to want a t3t4 50trim instead. The spool is faster and is better suited for the 1.8t. The .48 housing will make just over 300awhp on 22psi and the with good spool. This is a safer turbo for stock rods. It can make 340awhp easy on stock interals with its journal bearing spool.

Head over to vortex 1.8t section, there are tons of people running 50trims.
 
  #22  
Old 10-25-2007, 12:40 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

cool, thanks
 
  #23  
Old 10-25-2007, 12:56 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

I just installed a GT3076 setup and it is very streetable. It is currently locked at 15psi until i upgrade the internals but there is no lag and drives very smoothly. 8psi on this GT3076 is as much power at the K04 makes at max boost.

You say 'BS! There will be tons of lag!' and I thought the same thing for the longest time. Once I shift out of first gear it is pretty much primed to go into warp speed.

If you don't believe me fly up to Vancouver and come take a ride. If my car 'lags' when driving it on the street I'll pay for your airfare.

Build thread is here: http://audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161567

Oh... the cost?!?? Everything you see in the pics costs $200 more than the APR Stage 3+ kit. Yes... that includes the intercooler.

Here are some quick pics




 
  #24  
Old 10-25-2007, 02:41 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

Killer setup. Whats your plan for internals? Just throw in some IE rods and call it a day or rehoned, rings and rods?
 
  #25  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:02 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

ORIGINAL: cincyTT

compression makes more power throughout the rpms and makes the turbo spool faster, why change? They will and have have shown they can handle it over and over and over again.

The .63 3071r will make about the same or more power throughout the rpm than a 2871r with a .86. I would only go larger than a .63/.64 on something in the 3076r and bigger turbos. If you can get a 2871r with a .86 cheap, get it and grab a .64 turbine housing and either swap it before install or change it if you dont like it. Think they are under $200 new.
yeah im most likely just gona stick with the stock pistons, i was just curious about my options. and i can actually get a .63 ar 2871r for really cheap so i wouldn't even have to swap in a new housing. which is looking so perfect of a deal right about now. i just have to get a credit card lol

ORIGINAL: turbo kraut

what about the t3/t4, 60 trim i think how much of a "problem" is that going to be compared to the others talked about?

and like i stated i had a df clutch so sore leg is not an issue for me, my legs are bigger(stonger) than most peoples torsoes(sp)

i am looking for something simple that does have driveablility and a good dd turbo as, i know he said about getting the vr-t as a project, but it seems like he wants this to be a dd and project in one, opposed to chaos?

and why wouldn't you just do the vrt into your car you have now, rebadge it 1.8t, if you have debadged it and makea sleeper?
umm...maybe cuz i dont have 10 g's laying around[8D] gotta wait till i get a good job before starting my project car. i'm just looking for more power than what i have in my car right now. spend a couple grand, get over 300whp. i will be satisfied with that for a while lol


oh and mc hammered. that is a sick setup. please tell me it went on that ultra sexy avant you got
 
  #26  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:24 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

ORIGINAL: cincyTT

Killer setup. Whats your plan for internals? Just throw in some IE rods and call it a day or rehoned, rings and rods?
Well right now I'm looking at all my options and I would really like the least intrusive upgrade so I don't have to machine my cylinders.

If I go 2.0L then I'll need to build up the head as well so I don't float a valve.

If I stay at around 1.8L an 7200rpm limit then I don't need to worry about the head right now and can focus on building out the bottom end.

If I keep my cast pistons when I can just upgrade the rods, if I upgrade to forged pistons I need to machine the block to accomodate the expansion. The clincher is if I am replacing the rods why wouldn't I do the pistons at the same time?

Finally... I would rather buy a built blueprinted bottom end and drop it in.
 
  #27  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:26 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

ORIGINAL: chaos92287

oh and mc hammered. that is a sick setup. please tell me it went on that ultra sexy avant you got
All of that custom work you see was done to the Avant.

It's quite the sleeper now and I can't wait to built up the bottom end, take it to the track event in Reno next year and start hunting down some Porsches and M3's. I'm gunning for at least 400whp with this setup
 
  #28  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:38 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

sick. thats definitely gona be one of the sexiest avants ever. cant wait to see the finished product
 
  #29  
Old 10-25-2007, 03:51 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup

The car is finished as the rest of the work is just internals. You can see the pics of the completed build in the link I supplied in my first reply.

I do have a couple of things I have left to do to 'touch up' how everything looks but if you haven't seen a pic of my wagon here it is in summer mode in 2007. It now has black S4 blades, no foglights and a glimmer of the intercooler between the foglight grills.





 
  #30  
Old 10-25-2007, 05:25 PM
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Default RE: best streetable turbo setup



Well right now I'm looking at all my options and I would really like the least intrusive upgrade so I don't have to machine my cylinders. Then keeping the stock displacement and some Integrated Engeering rods would be best. You dont even have to take out the block if you dont want to.

If I go 2.0L then I'll need to build up the head as well so I don't float a valve. Why? Im building my 2.0 right now. Your not going to have to mess with the head unless you want to swap in a AEB head or swap in some new exhaust valves.

If I stay at around 1.8L an 7200rpm limit then I don't need to worry about the head right now and can focus on building out the bottom end. You need to spin it out to atleast 7.5k. Your can do that on a stock head and 8k+ with new springs.

If I keep my cast pistons when I can just upgrade the rods, if I upgrade to forged pistons I need to machine the block to accomodate the expansion. The clincher is if I am replacing the rods why wouldn't I do the pistons at the same time? The stock pistons are all forged. There isnt a need to swap pistons.

Finally... I would rather buy a built blueprinted bottom end and drop it in. Im running scat rods, with a AEG 2.0L crank freshly balanced, with custom wisco pistons with 9.25:1 CR. Plans are to run a gt3076r or gt35r and a 8k redline.

 
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