I have a 1997 1.8TQ and I am trying to do an oil change. Anyone have a good set of diredtions?

 

The splash shield is a PITA to replace. Used engine oil is a
carcinogen.
Find someone to do a synthetic oil change with a Mann94025 filter.
You might want to supply the filter.

Castrol, Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Chevron, Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40
Elf, Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
Kendall, Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Mobil, Mobil 1 0W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker State, Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker State, Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Pennzoil-Quaker State, Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Pennzoil Quaker State, Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Seventysix Lubricants, 76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Texaco, Havoline Synthetic 5W-40
Total, Total Quartz 9000 5W-40
Valvoline, Valvoline Synpower 5W-30
Valvoline, Valvoline synpower 5W-30

 

It's really easy... The skid plate adds like 3 or 4 minutes to the job I guess, but it's certainly not hard.
I get the filter from the bottom, but some people unscrew the coolant resevoir (takes 30 seconds) and get it from the top. I never liked doing it that way, though.

If you've ever done an oil change before, you'll have no troubles with this one. Just use synthetic and an OEM filter.

 

1- Remove plastic shield from bottom using flatheahd screwdriver. You may need to turn the wheel to get to the screws in the wheel wells. You might not have a pan either.

2- Drain oil. Once the pan is off, at the very front of the car (less than a foot from the bottom edge of the bumper)on the passenger side is the drain plug. I think it's a 17mm. Once the oil has finished draining, reinstall the drain plug.

3- Change the oil filter. This thing can be a total pain. The easiest way I've done it is to move the coolant reseviour out of the way. It's held in place by 3 phillips srews. Once they're out, move the reseviour towards the firewall to get better access to the filter. Unscrew the filter with an oil filter wrench or with your bare hands. There's going to be quite a bit of oil coming out, so you should put the oil pan under it and put some rags or absorbant paper towels on the subframe below the filter. When you put the new filter in, put a small amount of oil on the rubber seal and fill it about 1/2 way. Turn it until you feel resistance, then go 3/4 turn tight. Tightening it too much will make it very difficult to remove. The Mann 94025 filter CrazyHawk mentioned has a piece on the bottom so you can remove it using a screwdriver. It's extremely convenient and makes future jobs much easier. Put the reseviour back in place.

4- Refill oil. It's approximately 4 1/2 quarts. Be sure to check the dipstick when refilling. Start the car, then check the oil level again. The oil will fill the oil filter and you need to check the oil level again. Add oil as necessary.

5- Check oil plug and oil filter for any leaks. Tighten as necessary.

6- Install bottom pan.

 

17mm is correct. Also....there is a copper washer on the drain plug. You can use it agian, or you can go pick up one from the dealer. It very well may be the cheapest part they carry.

 

go to ecstuning.com and you will get the nut oil and filter for like 50 bucks, it will be all you need and its not that hard

 

Here is a link to a write up I did. My car is a 2002 1.8T but I can't see yours being much different.

http://www.audiforum.ca/audi-a4/738-...-who-want.html

 

The first time you change the oil on a new (for you) car, it'll take some time. Biggest headache for me was figuring out how to get the skidplate on/off. The rest of it is a piece of cake.

 

How did you reset the "Service!" light? That one has been bugging me for some time.

 

I can't remember exactly, the instructions are in the owner's manual. If you don't have your manual or can't find it, let me know, I'll go check in mine. I think not all model years can do it that way though.