2001 A4 LCD Display fading
#11
Not as easy as it sounds
Once everything is apart, you have to de-solder about 50 points that are about 1 mm wide. There is a product called QuikChip to help remove the old chip and it does work, but can make a mess. You got to be really sure you clean up the excess solder it dumps so as not to short anything. If I were to do it again, I would buy an inexpensive hot air rework tool. Re-installation was not easy.
I have alot of experience with electronics and trying to get all those points soldered properly took patience, a new .07 tip, a magnifying lamp (old eyes) and a few attempts. Whole process of removal and re-install of chip about 1hr, 45 mins. I can tell you I destroyed the old display upon removal and can see how you could damage the new one easily. Not for the faint or heart or those with little soldering experience. I figured I saved $100 over having it repaired by ModuleMaster. You need to decide if it is worth it.
FYI, I tried the heat trick on the ribbon cable and the pressure trick on the display edges and neither worked. When I looked at the ribbon cable with a back light, I could see points where the cable had come apart. I can not see how it could be fixed without creating jumpers over the broken parts. Considering those "wires" are hair thin, it is doubtful anyone could repair.
I have alot of experience with electronics and trying to get all those points soldered properly took patience, a new .07 tip, a magnifying lamp (old eyes) and a few attempts. Whole process of removal and re-install of chip about 1hr, 45 mins. I can tell you I destroyed the old display upon removal and can see how you could damage the new one easily. Not for the faint or heart or those with little soldering experience. I figured I saved $100 over having it repaired by ModuleMaster. You need to decide if it is worth it.
FYI, I tried the heat trick on the ribbon cable and the pressure trick on the display edges and neither worked. When I looked at the ribbon cable with a back light, I could see points where the cable had come apart. I can not see how it could be fixed without creating jumpers over the broken parts. Considering those "wires" are hair thin, it is doubtful anyone could repair.
#12
LCD works only on startup
I had some line problems on my LCD when I purchased my 98 A4. I bought a used insrument cluster, and was about the change the LCD display only. However the whole display now goes blank after intial check...so now it is more that just the display. I get "Press clutch to start, and then "OK", then blank. Does anyone know why the LCD would go out after initial display is shown?
#16
Used cluster
I bought the used cluster so that I could send my original cluster in for a new LCD to be installed (the soldering doesn't sound like my cup of tea), and not have to drive around with no cluster while the display was going on. Then I thought I could live with the two small lines missing. When I put the cluster on ebay some asked me what mileage was on the cluster, so I told people that I thought computer would retain car's mileage. The last time I changed a cluster (a mid-90's BMW) the cluster retained the mileage. I did tell next buyer that car had 100K over the dash display.
Anyway I plan to plug the cluster in to test it...if the LCD in good, maybe I will leave it in.
Anyway I plan to plug the cluster in to test it...if the LCD in good, maybe I will leave it in.
#17
#18
Has anybody looked into anisotropic conductive film? I have some of this for iPod ribbon repair. Also anisotropic conductive paste/epoxy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anisot...onductive_film
Anisotropic Conductive Films: Electronic Solutions : 3M United States
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anisot...onductive_film
Anisotropic Conductive Films: Electronic Solutions : 3M United States
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