I did a search for info, but couldn't get my question answered, so here goes. I have a 2001 A4 Quattro 5 speed. The timing belt went and destroyed the engine. I pulled the old engine out and purchased a used engine. The new engine came out of an automatic. The guy said all I have to do is swap the flywheel and the flex plate. My problem is this...the old engine crankshaft (the one with the 5 speed) has a raised cone shape on the back of the crank where the flywheel bolts on. The new engine (from an automatic) has a flat crank at the back. It looks like the pilot bearing is the wrong size also. Can these engines be swapped? I can't believe that there would be a difference in an auto or standard crank, but there seems to be. Maybe I'm missing something here. I guess as a last resort I could resell the engine I just bought and go for one from a standard shift car. Any thoughts? I appreciate all the input I can get.

 

"1.8T crankshafts come in different flavors. This is an attempt to classify them.
The main and rod bearing sizes and flywheel bolt patterns are all the same.
To the best of my knowledge, this information is correct for US model cars
There are 2 main categories
058 Old Style- Came in the 058 external waterpump blocks only in longitudinal cars.(A4, Passat) These all have the “short”, small diameter snout. These cranks are all cast, and come with a toothed 60-2 wheel
There are 2 versions
Manual – the difference being the spigot on flywheel end. These have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.
Automatic- This has a much flatter protrusion on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.

06A New Style- These came in all 06A blocks with internal waterpump, both longitudinal and transverse. (Some codes AWD, AWW, AWP, AMB, AMU, AWM) These all have the “long”, large diameter snout. These cranks are cast, and come with a windowed 60-2 wheel
There are 3 versions.
Transverse manual/automatic- These are all forged and have provision for a pilot bearing to be pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end, but no bearing is installed.
Longitudinal manual- These are all cast and have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.
Longitudinal automatic- These are all cast and have a much flatter spigot on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.

Application Notes:
058 and 06A cranks are not interchangeable- they must match the block.
Transverse applications can use any of the above listed cranks.
Longitudinal manual applications can use the transverse forged crank with the installation of a pilot bearing. They may also use the longitudinal automatic crank if an adapter is machined to accept the pilot bearing.
Longitudinal automatic applications can use the transverse forged crank, or longitudinal manual crank if the spigot on the flywheel is machined down to clear the torque converter.
Trigger wheels are physically interchangeable, but must match the sensor used."

 

You just need the head and have the old pistons smoothed out. Then sell the used block.

While your at it, rehone the cylinders and get new rings and your good to go. But what engine code do you have in your car and what code is the used one?

 

My code is AWM the guy I bought the used one from said his was AWM. Mine is standard shift with the bulbous end, the one I received is automatic with a flatter end. I'm not in the mood to take the block apart and swap cranks either. Mine has a lot of damage to the second piston. I guess I could buy a set of pistons, but that is a lot of extra work too. Might be easier to resell this engine and buy the correct one. Any other thoughts or ideas?

 

Best solution is leave your engine in the car, have them drop the oil pan and remove the head (which i assume is already done since you have seen the pistons), have them mark and remove the pistons and rods. Then you can have a machine shop smooth them out, then hone the cylinders and reinstall them with new rings. This will take care of the block for less than buying pistons and trying to sell your old ones. Then just reinstall the new head with new hardware. You can also just just replace the bent valves and reuse the stock head if you only damaged the exhaust valves. You can get everything you need from ecstuning.com

I personally would rebuild what i have then swap another engine and be stuck with a engine you will have to sell for cheap