2000 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro, Manual
Sport Package, Cold Weather Package
Odometer: 128,XXX – Will change as I drive the vehicle (not daily driven, though.)
Asking: $7995, will consider trades + cash
Location: Hyattsville, MD 20783

Contact: p s c h e o v e r d r i v e at g mail dot com. If you’d like to call, e-mail first and I’ll send you my number.



The time has come to sell my car. I bought this car from Carmax in 2005 with 63,000 miles on it, and I have been pouring money into it ever since. I had every intention of keeping this car forever, so I always had an 'only the best' mindset when choosing modifications.
However, given the recent times, I can no longer continue spending on this vehicle like I have. I need money for other things and I do not want to worry about my car all the time. There are some loose ends that need to be tied up that I am not willing to invest in since I have made the decision to sell (I will explain in detail later). As a result, you can have a stage III B5 A4 for less than what some people are still selling their cars for, stock.

With sale, I will also include a brand-new JHM Solid Short Throw Shifter, a set of Stoptech stainless-steel brake lines, a Bentley factory service manual on CD with two keys, a genuine VAG-COM cable, the stock wheels and my collection of spare parts.

All the parts involved in the below modifications were purchased brand new. I have all receipts and records.

Engine/Turbo/Management:
- Garrett GT2871RS Eliminator
- Custom turbo oil return line + fittings (Built by Induktion Motorsports)
- Genesis 415cc Injectors (Greentops)
- Bosch 4 bar FPR
- Custom Saikou Michi Stage One Dual OCC Catch Can vented to atmosphere (made specifically for my car!)
- 034 Motorsports vented, black powdercoated valve cover (vented directly to catch can)
- Axis Motorsports PCV delete plate (vented directly to the other catch can)
- 034 Motorsports powdercoated coilpack cover
- N249 & N114 delete (I still have both of these solenoids, which still work)
- Secondary Air Injection delete
- Unitronic Tune (injectors, MAF and FPR sized per tune's spec)
- Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer
- Silicon small vacuum lines

Intake:
- 3" AEM Dryflow Paper Cone Filter
- TT225 MAF housing w/stock sensor
- 3" ATP Compressor Inlet Kit (modified to accommodate deletes)
- Evolution Racewerks Competition FMIC
- Synapse Engineering BOV w/Anti-Stall Valve Kit mounted to cold-side IC pipe



Exhaust:
- Custom 3" ATP Test Pipe w/Y-pipe & bung for wideband - exhaust wrapped and silicon-coated
- QTP Electric Cutout (modulating switch mounted to the left of the steering wheel)
- Borla V2 Catback Exhaust (has an inline metallic high-flow cat installed post-downpipe)

Drivetrain:
- DXD Southbend SS Stage 4 Clutch

Misc:
- Blinktek heatshield
- Torqueflow transmission cooler set up as a power steering fluid cooler

Suspension/Stabilizers:
- Stasis Tracksport fully adjustable coilovers, 600/700 spring rates
- APR Snubmount
- Hotchkis H-Sport Extreme swaybar set
- Perrin WRX front swaybar links
- CPP rear swaybar links
- PureMS front strut-tower brace
- CPP front and rear upper control arms
- CPP tie rod ends

Exterior:
- 35% all-around tint (lifetime warranty at Obsession Motorsports)
- Ultimate Design LED Tail Lights w/smoke film
- Trimmed Reiger RS4 Style front bumper
- Hella FF75 foglights w/VVME 4300K HID kit
- Reiger V2 sideskirts
- 42 Draft Designs LED taglights

Interior:
- Prosport boost gauge
- Innovate Standalone Wideband (LC-1 and XD-16)
- Scan Gauge II (hardwired)
- Passport Escort 8500 radar detector (hardwired)
- RAM cell phone mount
- Sparco sport pedals
- Hidden no-start switch for security
- Kiddie ABC 5 pound fire extinguisher











I got an extra-large cupholder and put it on the bottom of the armrest:






The fire extinguisher easily detaches, and the center arm rest folds back up into the seat:


I keep a small air compressor in the back, right under the tool kit:


Audio:
- Kenwood KDC-X889 headunit
- Kenwood KGC-9044 11 band full-DIN equalizer
- 4" Alpine SPS-10C2 in the front and rear doors
- Pioneer TSA-6990R 6x9s in the rear deck
- Polk Audio/Momo MMC650 6.5"s in the rear deck
- Audiobahn A6004T 75W RMSx4 class AB amp
- Alpine MRD-M605 400W RMSx1 class D mono amp
- Alpine SWR-124D 12" subs
- Audiobahn dual 12" ported box
- Street wires 4-gauge power cable kit
- Rockford Fosgate 4-gauge power cable kit
- Rockford Fosgate Gamma-twisted speaker cable
- Rockford Fosgate 1/2 F capacitor (wired to A6004T)
- Rockford Fosgate 1 F capacitor (wired to M605)











I can remove the sticker on the gas tank cover on request of buyer:




The car has only ever seen Mobil 1 synthetic oil and K&N or Mobil 1 oil filters during my ownership. I have an Excel spreadsheet with all maintenance, modifications and repairs since 8/7/06 (when it started getting serious). The suspension and upper control arms were done in March, 2008 and the turbo work was done around Fall 2008 (it took a long time gathering parts and getting through all the custom items). The tires have about 7000 miles on them. The coolant, power steering fluid, spark plugs, fuel injectors, valve cover + gasket, front axles, oxygen sensors and orifice tube have all been replaced in 2008/2009. The AC system was purged and refilled last year, and the alignment was done 4/21/2009 along with the oil at 127,000 miles.

The car does have an accident history which was all under my ownership, so I can explain. The first was in 2005 when the car suffered a hit to the driver's side rear. The rear bumper, tail light, trunk lid and all associated parts were replaced and body work was done by True 2 Form. The other was in December, 2007 when an elderly man hit my passenger side front door at low speed. The bodywork was done by Rockville Auto Body (great shop) in Rockville. Nothing mechanical was damaged in either incident.

 

So, what are these 'loose ends?'
First, and most obvious is the front bumper. Last winter, I ran over somebody's mailbox in the snow.


The hit split the bumper, but as you can see, was not enough to damage the intercooler:


I had to trim the bumper reinforcement bar in order to fit my FMIC behind it, so the plastic just split on contact. If I were to keep the car, I would get an S4 front bumper from someone and trim it.

Next, the rear sway-bar endlinks. The passenger-side endlink has a split shaft. CPP is no longer in business, so a CPP replacement isn't available. There are some options out there, and since the rod ends are still good, you could make your own if you have a tap set.

Then there are the motor mounts. One of them is busted, and the other is sure to follow.

A new bumper will cost around $500-600 depending on if you get a new or used one. A new set of rear sway-bar endlinks will cost no more than $160 (the price of the CPP ones, stock will be much, much less). Stiff, aftermarket motor mounts will run you around $150 depending on the brand, but stock ones are ~$60 each.

The rest are moreless minor issues:
The CEL is on. The car throws two codes: P0140 and P1287. These are both due to the Unitronic tune. I requested them add the SAIS, N249, N112 and cat deletes to my tune, but they only seemed to remember to delete the N112 solenoid and SAIS from the software. The car runs fine, and the A/F ratio is spot-on.



There is some small curb rash on the passenger side wheels, which I have painted over:







The lower door trim is starting to look kind of crappy, and I was going to shave it off completely.

There are also some 'mystery scuffs' that my car acquired sitting in front of my house:




The driver’s seat bottom is torn:


And of course, like most B5s, there’s a bit of cluster pox. The self-dimming mirrors are perfect, though.


…And that’s the end of the bad news. This car, as-is, put down 218whp on the dyno at AutoSpeed Performance in New Jersey. The A/F ratio was dead-on throughout the whole rev range. The car with its current hardware is capable of 30-40 more whp. Because one of the motor mounts is shot, the charge piping is wiggling around in the couplers, causing a bit of a boost leak. With new mounts and a bit of re-tightening of the couplers, the car will get a bit more strength. However, as-is, I’ve beaten a few GDB STis off the line and from rolls, as well as a Volvo S60R, Mustang GT and several others not worth mentioning.



More pictures!

4300K HIDs at work:


Smoked LED tails:










The rear foglights on:


The footwell lights are wired to come on with the headlights:


The wideband is reading ‘E2’ right now – I will try to have this fixed prior to sale. I was trying to reground the display and controller in favor of a more ideal ground on the engine block, but I have not quite figured it out yet.



Please e-mail me with any questions you have about the vehicle.
Once again, my e-mail is: p s c h e o v e r d r i v e at g mail dot com.
Thanks for looking!