anytime, thats what i am here for!

 

To the newbies or potential newbies, (maybe it should be neubies?) I've owned multiple Audi's over the years and have a '01 Allroad with 74,k tip. Until a couple of weeks ago, I thought I'd dodged the problems that have plagued several friends and others I'd read about.
I have a GIAC ECU and Tip Chip. Both are highly regarded and work great--the Tip shifts much quicker now, with no lag between shifts--it is the "lag" or slippage which creates frictional heat and thus reliability probs. Of course, some think that boosting these things via a very hot chip shouldn't cause problems, but it always will. Stay with a mild state of tune--APR, GIAC, MTM, all offer a well engineered and smooth 300+HP--well within the engineering parameters of the bi-turbo.
Expect a couple of things--as I've discovered--had I known, I would have been pro-active and saved myself some serious money--my car is not under warranty and I'm kicking myself for not pulling the trigger on an aftermarket warranty. INHO, even $3000 is a bargain for an extended warranty to cover all the things that can go wrong. Replacing turbos is a minimum of $3000 w/the engine R&R and upgrade of any kind.
Trans aside, (if you can find the GIAC tip chip, do it) I've now replaced the original KO3 turbos. These turbos are simply junk. Decent for normal boost, the KO3's are not forgiving if you lose a diverter valve, (blow-off valve) tear a "Y" boot, (this is the boot that takes both banks/turbos and routes the pressurized air into the center intake--if you pull the plastic V-6 cover on the front center of the engine it sits between both diverters), or don't practice good turbo etiquette. The KO3's were designed for quick throttle response, but were also designed to function near the top of their respective performance envelope--meaning no margin beyond unless everything else perfect.
I tore a boot, and also had a diverter valve go bad, (all still stock). Combined, these overboosted the turbo, (allowed to overspin) and in a very acute fashion became a smoke machine--it is very impressive to drive and look behind unable to see anything beyond five feet. The most frustrating aspect of this is that I'd literally just had the boot replaced and the diverter replaced, drove the car home--it was fine. That night, my wife drove the car, came in said the car ran poorly and smelled bad. The next morning I drove it and it smoked like a banshee. So bad I had it towed. Diagnosis: Blown turbo--problem is, you don't replace just one. I've since located KO4's and Forge diverters, which should put us back in the reliable category. Prior to this, I'd had 0 issues, outside of a control arm--common in the midwest or anywhere with poor roads.
Bottom line: Kept stock, any of the Biturbo V-6's are pretty reliable. Make sure you do the timing belt, and fluid flushes at 60-70,k. Run synthetics wherever you can. Check CV boots regularly--I got to replace one CV and one boot--caught it before it allowed that side to go bad. Let the car warm up--no boot until oil temp up. Even with the factory turbo "timer" I still have instructed my family to allow the car a minute to idle down. Do those things and you will be happy with a car that has style, performance, space utilization and even some off-road capability. (I may have torn the first boot when we were in Colorado on vacation...)
We also own a '95 Audi S-6 Avant--owned since 16,k miles, ( now 116,k)and I am on the original turbo, trans, AND clutch--which goes to support why so many prefer the manual tranny cars. I even taught both of my kids how to drive manual with this car--they both have gone on to drive it full time--another important element. Audi's don't sit well. They need to be exercised and driven or they get what I call, "lot rot"--the bane of any car dealer with used cars that sit for any period of time.
Our other vehicle is an '05 Powerstoke Excursion--this is a turbo-diesel. I bought it with modifications for towing, including all guages. This is where I learned about how much heat turbo's generate. I have both an exhaust temp and trans temp guage and these two guages will go into the Allroad as well. I've learned not to shut it down until the temp on the exhaust is at 400 degrees (!!) or below. On the street, it is not uncommon to see the exhaust temp operate in the 800+ range--and I'm not even towing. When towing, it gets into the 900-1200 degree range. This is some serious heat.
This turned into a long response, but thought this was a decent perspective for anyone looking into an Allroad. The manual 6 speed cars are like hen's teeth, but are the more reliable version. With some preventative measures the Tip cars can be reliable too. I am probably going to add a trans cooler with the temp guage while the engine is out replacing the turbo's.
Enjoy.

 

What is a GIAC tip chip? And have you guys ever used a dual turbo timer/ boost gauge (blitz)? is it worth it?

 

I have an 02 allroad automatic w/ all the factory extras, stock otherwise.90,000 miles. Gas mileage sucks, but otherwise its the car is great. No tranny problems, yet. I did buy an full extended warranty up to 100k for peace of mind.

The only time i use the tip is in the snow to keep the car in a lower gear. I do alsoexperience about a 1 to 2 second delay from the moment I push the gas pedal to the point when the car reacts. I thought this was just something that the auto was programed to do?

Have not decided if I will keep it past the warranty.