Just got an Allroad
#1
11-04-2007 | 12:14 AM
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 477
From:
Just got an Allroad
Hi all,
I just purchased a CPO 2003 Allroad w/ 33k miles on it. I currently own a 2006 A4 which I love, but a recent addition to the family meant we needed a second ride with more space. Initially, I wasn't a fan of the Allroad...always looked kinda frumpy to me. My wife always loved the look of 'em and pursuaded me to put it on our listof possible contenders for 2nd car. (XC70 XC90 Subaru...etc) One day while waiting forthe A4 from service, I noticed a Burgandy Allroad sitting behind the dealership.Given that we were in the market for a wagon or suv, I decided to give the thing a chance and take a test drive. Glad I did. Yeah...it's not as light on it's feet as the A4, but it feels solid and drives great!
Is it just me or are these things hard to find and damn expensive for a used car? Definitely a niche car with a loyal following.
I just purchased a CPO 2003 Allroad w/ 33k miles on it. I currently own a 2006 A4 which I love, but a recent addition to the family meant we needed a second ride with more space. Initially, I wasn't a fan of the Allroad...always looked kinda frumpy to me. My wife always loved the look of 'em and pursuaded me to put it on our listof possible contenders for 2nd car. (XC70 XC90 Subaru...etc) One day while waiting forthe A4 from service, I noticed a Burgandy Allroad sitting behind the dealership.Given that we were in the market for a wagon or suv, I decided to give the thing a chance and take a test drive. Glad I did. Yeah...it's not as light on it's feet as the A4, but it feels solid and drives great!
Is it just me or are these things hard to find and damn expensive for a used car? Definitely a niche car with a loyal following.
#2
11-04-2007 | 01:53 PM
Site Moderator
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,004
From: Nor Cal
RE: Just got an Allroad
Yeah there are a lot more 2.7T allroads than there are 4.2L's, but they are all pretty expensive.
Mostly because of the adjustablefour corner air suspension the allroad has over the A6 wagon.
The suspension costs about $8,000 more than the standard A6 suspension, and well worth it IMHO.
Mostly because of the adjustablefour corner air suspension the allroad has over the A6 wagon.
The suspension costs about $8,000 more than the standard A6 suspension, and well worth it IMHO.
#3
11-04-2007 | 08:00 PM
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 46
RE: Just got an Allroad
expensive as a used car?
oringinal sticker on an '03 was just under $50K- the resale market on the same car with 4 years later is $15-17K, trade in value on the car is about $12k. I think that's pretty cheap, and a great deal,for a car that offers as much as the allroad.
oringinal sticker on an '03 was just under $50K- the resale market on the same car with 4 years later is $15-17K, trade in value on the car is about $12k. I think that's pretty cheap, and a great deal,for a car that offers as much as the allroad.
#6
11-14-2007 | 01:17 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5
My 2002 2.7T Tip allroad is 5 weeks old...?What?...
Yeah, seems odd to say it that way, but considering the outstanding condition of this "new to me" car with 85,000 miles (!) the car really does seem like it was delivered only a short time ago. The earlier owner never had anyone in the back seat, and perhaps not even in the passenger seat. I paid a total of $16,400 including all taxes, title, registration, and so on. This may seem pricy to many, but I also got all the dealer service papers since day one. And all the keys! I'm extemely pleased, and so is my spouse (who drives it everyday).
---
Within one week after buying the car I installed an RNS-E (4B0 035 192 R). This allroad had a Symphony II w/ Bose plus a trunk mounted CD changer, Tiptronic, and a MFSW (multi-Function Steering Wheel with up/down controls for each of: volume, preselect, scan and the Tiptronic). Parktronic is also present, but I don't think that is significant.
Using a plug and play (PNP) adapter cable, the job was easy. Well, sort of...here's what I noted, rewired and confirmed:
In my allroad, the control unit interface module that converts the MFSW signals into signals for use with the Symphony II was the "618" version of the 4B0 907 487 with the "H" suffix. This meant that the MFSW would properly operate the volume, preset, and scan in the RNS-E via the CAN-bus, as well as pass the Tiptronic signals on to the transmission control unit.
The 32 pin grey connector behind the instrument cluster (named T32c) already had the CAN-L (pin 5; orange/violet) and CAN-H (pin 6; orange/brown) present. These two wires wound their way through the wiring harness to pins 12 (CAN-L) and 7 (CAN-H) of "Connector I" (the two pins are/would be in the center green connector if your vehicle came that way). The PNP then relocated these two wires to pins D10 (CAN-L) and D9 (CAN-H) in the Quadlock connector. I had thought that I would have to hand wire the two CAN-bus wires from T32c, but after opening up the connector I found these wires already installed. As stated, this is a 2002 allroad. The build date showing on the driver's door B pillar is 05/02.
The GALA wire (vehicle speed signal) I used was from pin 31 of the blue connector (T32) at the back of the instrument panel. I used pin 31, rather than pin 3, because I was told that in the allroad pin 3 is used by the air suspension system. I didn't want to interfere with that. Pin 31 is used by the wiper system, so interference is not a concern. I used some 20 gauge wire for this. Even smaller gauge wire is OK as there is no significant current flow in this wire.
The new GALA wire was then connected to pin B3 in the Quadlock connector. Before I could do that I had to remove a wire in the PNP that connected B3 to Pin 1 of the black 8 pin connector (Connector III) in the original wire harness for the Symphony II audio system. After extracting the contact/wire (a flat male plug) out of pin 1 of the PNP's mating connector (also black), I soldered that wire to the GALA wire. I used heat shrink tubing to insulate the bare metal of the solder connection. (You could simply cut the wire near the black connector, make a secure connection to the GALA wire, and use black electrical tape to insulate the connection. Or you can install an in-line connector to allow easier removal of the PNP at a later date.)
I did not install a wire between the connector in the drivers "A" pillar footwell (T10f/pin8) and the reverse signal (RFSL) input on the RNS-E (pin C2). There is conflicting information on this site about the necessity or reason to do this. Some posts indicate that the CAN-bus transmits this info to the RNS-E in a 2002 vehicle, but other posts indicate that the hardwired connection is still needed on a 2002. I cannot determine why this signal is needed other than perhaps making the arrowhead cursor in the map pointing "forward" even when you are backing up. Since my installation orients the cursor correctly without the RFSL wire connected, it is likely the "reversing" condition is transmitted via the CAN-bus (or the RNS-E's gyro system figures this out). Or perhaps the RFSL signal is just to make the RNS-E correct mileage for the "distance to next instruction" as you drive backwards...I can't see the real need for this feature as I don't plan on backing up -that- much. [Edited 10/22/07...I've just been informed that the RFSL signal is used to automatically display a rear view video image from a backup camera. Thank you "uber_ar" from the AudiWorld forum.]
Because I have a Bose amplifier/equilizer system, I installed a jumper wire in the PNP Quadlock between pin B7 (Bose) and D14 (DWA-GND (an easily accessible grounding point)).
I'd like to comment on the GPS antenna installation within the dashboard near the instrument cluster. I've read a couple posts suggesting that the antenna be located on top of an aluminum structural support forward of and slightly to the left of the center line of the instrument cluster. There is a small "shelf" in that location on the metal support where a plastic air duct makes a bend upward. Placing the antenna here is possible, but the spacing is VERY tight and the antenna will be slightly tilted and rather toward the forward edge of the windshield. This might limit the antenna's "view of the sky" and therefore the number of satellites that can be seen.
This mounting location within the dashboard has often been used because an earlier post describing an RNS-E installation used the term "cubby hole" to describe a good place to put the antenna. However, the photo that the author included in the article was rather dark, and his suggested location for the antenna is often misunderstood. A very careful look at the photo reveals that the location being described is not the little "shelf" on the aluminum structural support.
Instead, the GPS antenna was located between the upper surface of the dashboard and where the dashboard touches the top edge of the instrument cluster. Between these two surfaces is a rather decent open area...about 1 - 1.5 inches high, and a dozen inches wide. This area is ABOVE the installed instrument cluster. You'll note that when the instrument cluster is removed, you can cup your fingers and slip them up into this area. This is where you can locate the antenna and the extra coax cable. I wrapped velcro around the antenna, and then placed a mating piece of velcro on the bottom of the wrapped antenna. Then I did my best to slip the antenna into the opening, holding the sticky surface away from the plastic until the antenna was far enough in. It's a little tough to do this with big hands. I then coiled the coax cable (but for three feet or so) and stuffed the cable next to the antenna. I added a piece of good foam rubber (like that from a high quality instrument carry case) to prevent the cable from flopping around. When the antenna is in this location, it is almost centered in the front to back distance of the windshield, giving it a great view of the sky.
Oh, yes...do not bend the coax cable too sharply. Doing so will significantly diminish the received signal strength. Keep all "radius" bends in the cable at least 2 inches
----
The RNS-E works great. And the DIS (Driver's Information System) display information is just what is needed as you approch an intersection. I do have one question which I'm sure someone can answer in regard to the DIS info. Prior to the installation of the RNS-E, the radio call letters and song information scrolled through the Symphony II display and in the DIS. After the RNS-E, all this info is only on the RNS-E, whereas the DIS only shows the radio station's frequency. Is this correct?
I'm sure I forgot to mention a detail or two, so if you have any questions, and I actually did something that would have answered them, I'll edit this post to "fill in the blanks'"
---
Within one week after buying the car I installed an RNS-E (4B0 035 192 R). This allroad had a Symphony II w/ Bose plus a trunk mounted CD changer, Tiptronic, and a MFSW (multi-Function Steering Wheel with up/down controls for each of: volume, preselect, scan and the Tiptronic). Parktronic is also present, but I don't think that is significant.
Using a plug and play (PNP) adapter cable, the job was easy. Well, sort of...here's what I noted, rewired and confirmed:
In my allroad, the control unit interface module that converts the MFSW signals into signals for use with the Symphony II was the "618" version of the 4B0 907 487 with the "H" suffix. This meant that the MFSW would properly operate the volume, preset, and scan in the RNS-E via the CAN-bus, as well as pass the Tiptronic signals on to the transmission control unit.
The 32 pin grey connector behind the instrument cluster (named T32c) already had the CAN-L (pin 5; orange/violet) and CAN-H (pin 6; orange/brown) present. These two wires wound their way through the wiring harness to pins 12 (CAN-L) and 7 (CAN-H) of "Connector I" (the two pins are/would be in the center green connector if your vehicle came that way). The PNP then relocated these two wires to pins D10 (CAN-L) and D9 (CAN-H) in the Quadlock connector. I had thought that I would have to hand wire the two CAN-bus wires from T32c, but after opening up the connector I found these wires already installed. As stated, this is a 2002 allroad. The build date showing on the driver's door B pillar is 05/02.
The GALA wire (vehicle speed signal) I used was from pin 31 of the blue connector (T32) at the back of the instrument panel. I used pin 31, rather than pin 3, because I was told that in the allroad pin 3 is used by the air suspension system. I didn't want to interfere with that. Pin 31 is used by the wiper system, so interference is not a concern. I used some 20 gauge wire for this. Even smaller gauge wire is OK as there is no significant current flow in this wire.
The new GALA wire was then connected to pin B3 in the Quadlock connector. Before I could do that I had to remove a wire in the PNP that connected B3 to Pin 1 of the black 8 pin connector (Connector III) in the original wire harness for the Symphony II audio system. After extracting the contact/wire (a flat male plug) out of pin 1 of the PNP's mating connector (also black), I soldered that wire to the GALA wire. I used heat shrink tubing to insulate the bare metal of the solder connection. (You could simply cut the wire near the black connector, make a secure connection to the GALA wire, and use black electrical tape to insulate the connection. Or you can install an in-line connector to allow easier removal of the PNP at a later date.)
I did not install a wire between the connector in the drivers "A" pillar footwell (T10f/pin8) and the reverse signal (RFSL) input on the RNS-E (pin C2). There is conflicting information on this site about the necessity or reason to do this. Some posts indicate that the CAN-bus transmits this info to the RNS-E in a 2002 vehicle, but other posts indicate that the hardwired connection is still needed on a 2002. I cannot determine why this signal is needed other than perhaps making the arrowhead cursor in the map pointing "forward" even when you are backing up. Since my installation orients the cursor correctly without the RFSL wire connected, it is likely the "reversing" condition is transmitted via the CAN-bus (or the RNS-E's gyro system figures this out). Or perhaps the RFSL signal is just to make the RNS-E correct mileage for the "distance to next instruction" as you drive backwards...I can't see the real need for this feature as I don't plan on backing up -that- much. [Edited 10/22/07...I've just been informed that the RFSL signal is used to automatically display a rear view video image from a backup camera. Thank you "uber_ar" from the AudiWorld forum.]
Because I have a Bose amplifier/equilizer system, I installed a jumper wire in the PNP Quadlock between pin B7 (Bose) and D14 (DWA-GND (an easily accessible grounding point)).
I'd like to comment on the GPS antenna installation within the dashboard near the instrument cluster. I've read a couple posts suggesting that the antenna be located on top of an aluminum structural support forward of and slightly to the left of the center line of the instrument cluster. There is a small "shelf" in that location on the metal support where a plastic air duct makes a bend upward. Placing the antenna here is possible, but the spacing is VERY tight and the antenna will be slightly tilted and rather toward the forward edge of the windshield. This might limit the antenna's "view of the sky" and therefore the number of satellites that can be seen.
This mounting location within the dashboard has often been used because an earlier post describing an RNS-E installation used the term "cubby hole" to describe a good place to put the antenna. However, the photo that the author included in the article was rather dark, and his suggested location for the antenna is often misunderstood. A very careful look at the photo reveals that the location being described is not the little "shelf" on the aluminum structural support.
Instead, the GPS antenna was located between the upper surface of the dashboard and where the dashboard touches the top edge of the instrument cluster. Between these two surfaces is a rather decent open area...about 1 - 1.5 inches high, and a dozen inches wide. This area is ABOVE the installed instrument cluster. You'll note that when the instrument cluster is removed, you can cup your fingers and slip them up into this area. This is where you can locate the antenna and the extra coax cable. I wrapped velcro around the antenna, and then placed a mating piece of velcro on the bottom of the wrapped antenna. Then I did my best to slip the antenna into the opening, holding the sticky surface away from the plastic until the antenna was far enough in. It's a little tough to do this with big hands. I then coiled the coax cable (but for three feet or so) and stuffed the cable next to the antenna. I added a piece of good foam rubber (like that from a high quality instrument carry case) to prevent the cable from flopping around. When the antenna is in this location, it is almost centered in the front to back distance of the windshield, giving it a great view of the sky.
Oh, yes...do not bend the coax cable too sharply. Doing so will significantly diminish the received signal strength. Keep all "radius" bends in the cable at least 2 inches
----
The RNS-E works great. And the DIS (Driver's Information System) display information is just what is needed as you approch an intersection. I do have one question which I'm sure someone can answer in regard to the DIS info. Prior to the installation of the RNS-E, the radio call letters and song information scrolled through the Symphony II display and in the DIS. After the RNS-E, all this info is only on the RNS-E, whereas the DIS only shows the radio station's frequency. Is this correct?
I'm sure I forgot to mention a detail or two, so if you have any questions, and I actually did something that would have answered them, I'll edit this post to "fill in the blanks'"
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