Write Up By: Joseph House
Have Questions: email me at jhsoccerodp@gmail.com.
Parts Needed:
10mm Deep Socket
Multiple Extensions
Wrench
Torx Set
Solder iron
Shrink Wrap
Lighter
Solder
Wire Strippers/cutters
Phillips Screw driver
Drill
Xenon Ballast/Bulb Set, with wiring. Check out this guy, he is awesome, on ebay username
silviaman61336, and xhidoutlet. Make sure you get it with D2S connector and adapter. Cost me
90.79 for the brighter 55w kit with connectors.
The adapters are called "d2s pigtails" they are for the "amp connectors"

Instructions:
1. First Remove headlights, use this diy for that
http://www.ttstuff.com/accessories_c...er_install.php
BUMPER REMOVAL
1) Jack up, remove front wheels
2) Remove front part of fender liners
3) Remove the 2 10mm nuts on studs at the corners toward the sides holding the nose to the body shell. Loosen 2 torx
bolts holding black side clip
4) Remove the 6 torx bolts along the top of the nose
5) Remove 2 phillips screws at the bottom
6) Pull nose off, unclip aliens.

 


HEADLIGHT REMOVAL
Remove the 3 TORX BOLTS
1) Remove front one
2) Remove top one
3) Loosen bottom one (from inside the wheel well) and flip support bracket out of the way
4) Wiggle out and unplug

2. Once you remove the headlights, remove black plastic cover from headlight.

3. Remove Ballast, and unplug wire harness from ballast, there are 3 Phillips screws holding this
in.(The piece you will be removing is shown before.)

4. Push the tabs on the top and bottom of the plug to force through hole, and play with the plug until you can get it to come out through the back opening where the cover was previously. You will need to remove High Beam Bulb and holder, its still a tight fit. (The plug shown below is the plug needed to be pushed through.)


5. Cut off connector from Ballast, you only need the Yellow and the Brown Wire, the green
black and red are the wires that went to the original igniter. (This is the step some of you may not like, I cut mine with an inch left on the plug side, so you can always solder the plug back on if you ever have to, you can see the yellow and brown you need stripped below.)


6. Take the back cover and drill a one-inch hole about an inch in from the opposite end of where you have the two tabs.(Sorry forgot to take a picture, so I photoshopped this one)

7. Mount ballast in original location with wires pointing back. Make sure to use the double-sided tape to cover up where the hole is from the oem wiring harness. You can use one of the brackets that were provided with the kit to bend and mount similar to how it’s pictured below.

8. Now feed the wires from the ballast through the hole you drilled in the back cover.

9. Change bulb to new bulb provided if u went with the 55w kit like I did, if you stayed with the 35w your stock bulbs would be fine.(No picture needed)

10. Strip your yellow and Brown oem wiring, and strip the black and red from your kit. Shrink wrap and solder Black to brown and yellow to red.

11. Connect amp connectors to the amp connectors on the wire coming from the bulb. You will be connecting the wires that have a plug coming from the ballast and then the one with similar plugs coming from the wires on the bulb. (You will be connecting the connectors below with the ones that are from the ballast.

12. Make sure everything fits up nice with the cover back on. Lock the cover with the metal clip.
13. Go Test.

14. If a side doesn’t work change the way you have wire going into the ballast. There is a red and black plug going into the ballast that is reversible, if that doesn’t work check to make sure your amp connectors are tight. If you still have a problem, contact the tech support from the people you bought it from, if you got it from where I did, because they are great. And If you followed the directions, everything is soldered and connected right and they can provide additional support.
15. Leave them running for about 10 minutes, make sure everything is good and tight, and no flicker. You don’t want to have to take bumper off to fix something. So make sure its all good first.
16. Reassemble.
Here are some teasers:

 

Nice write up, doesn't look too hard, may be doing this mod this weekend myself now!

 

it will look amazing, i think 8ks look best on th 55w kit, since the 6ks look like a stock bulb on 55w. Color wise, but either way the it will be brighter. the K is kelvin number, just color. for the people who are confused as to what it means

 

sweet!

Is that the 8k in the shots? does it look blue? (1st pic looks white...)

 

yea thats the 8ks they do have a blue tint, you can tell when it shines on the road

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I think it is pertinent. Does this mod result in bulb failure indicator on the dash?

 

Same question. How is it holding up and does it eliminate the bulb failure onthe dash?

 

Is that the 8k in the shots?

 

Just an update. I've had this done for about 3 months now. Everything is working fine. No bulb failure icon. However I think this may eliminate all bulb failure icons. At the time of my retrofit I also had a burned out signal bulb that didn't show up on the dash display once I finisht the HID install

 

im wanting to do this, seems a whole lot cheaper than just replacing one bulb.

questions:

is your beam level adjustable with the manual levelers on top of the light?

did you lose all your cruise control function and any bulb failure warnings?